What did you do to your HPI Savage today?

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I've seen a number of people on here that have done the suspension conversion kit (HPI-87245), is it worth it? I've been tossing up whether I want to do it or not, mainly for the camber adjustment. Its ridiculously expensive though! ?
Here in aus its retailing over $250AUD!
Hobbies Direct, the hobby store where I get most of my stuff from, have it up for $278AUD!!!

Surely thats a bit extreme for what it offers? ?
It completely changes the way it handles. And add the sway bar kit, HUGE difference in handling. With the lowered ride height, I can take full speed turns without a chance of roll over. The front wheels also get a little bit more angle when they turn.
 
It completely changes the way it handles. And add the sway bar kit, HUGE difference in handling. With the lowered ride height, I can take full speed turns without a chance of roll over. The front wheels also get a little bit more angle when they turn.
Yea I got the sway bars many years ago, Should have come as a standard on the truck they're that good!

As for the conversion kit, sounds great - but its near $300 great? I'm really not convinced...

I'd rather just buy adjustable camber arms for the front and back. Be like 1/8th the price!
 
Yea I got the sway bars many years ago, Should have come as a standard on the truck they're that good!

As for the conversion kit, sounds great - but its near $300 great? I'm really not convinced...

I'd rather just buy adjustable camber arms for the front and back. Be like 1/8th the price!

It doesn't just give adjustable upper arms for camber. It changes the caster angle, where the upper arms are mounted, and fixed toe angle for the rear. There's something else too, but can't remember what. If you actually race your savage, I would get the kit. Or just watch and see if the price comes down once they start crankin out HPI parts again. The kit was $150-190 US when it first came out depending on where you got it from. Not sure what that converts to AUD.
 
The bleed holes on my shocks were bugging me, every shock I've used had a bleed hole but was a screw so you could bleed the shock and then block it. These ones just had a hole and for me always leaked. Drilled and tapped a 3mm hole in them to suit a 3x3mm grub screw. Easy bleeding and no more leaking!

View attachment 8152
View attachment 8151

Also installed a new nylon diff bulkhead to the front, regreased the diff while I was there, got another for rear too which I just have to wait for.

Ordering the alza center diff this week too once pay day comes around ??
Love the grub screw idea for bleeding, pity manufactures have not come up with that themselves you could be onto something! Lol ??
 
I've seen a number of people on here that have done the suspension conversion kit (HPI-87245), is it worth it? I've been tossing up whether I want to do it or not, mainly for the camber adjustment. Its ridiculously expensive though! ?
Here in aus its retailing over $250AUD!
Hobbies Direct, the hobby store where I get most of my stuff from, have it up for $278AUD!!!

Surely thats a bit extreme for what it offers? ?
My flux came with it and I removed it. The dog bones kept popping out on the front and the upper arm bolts kept snapping off. Just being a basher, I was fine with a stock savage. I did put integy heavy duty rear carriers on it though, didn't want to deal with turnbuckles.
 
I had planned on racing mine occasionally but never got the chance. Maybe here in the future I'll be able to race it a time or 2. But, I'm a basher through and through.
 
If you want stability then a truggy does a better job, a monster truck will always have a higher CoG. Placing a length of fuel tubing inside the shock will also reduce ride height.
 
If you want stability then a truggy does a better job, a monster truck will always have a higher CoG. Placing a length of fuel tubing inside the shock will also reduce ride height.

There was a member on here from Australia that built an all carbon fiber race savage that weighed around 9 lbs and was whooping up on truggys and revo. Won quite a few championships.
 
There was a member on here from Australia that built an all carbon fiber race savage that weighed around 9 lbs and was whooping up on truggys and revo. Won quite a few championships.
Yea very well built rig that one. CF TVPS, CF hellfire shock towers, hellfire a arms. Absolute weapon of a race rig thats for sure
 
Then you could argue that it wasnt a Savage in the end. Built for a different purpose, at probably high cost, other than bashing that most will be doing. I guess it depends on what are the key design aspects that makes a Savage - TVPs?
 
Finally took the rig out for the first time is a long after waiting for parts and putting it back together. New diff bulkheads, new diff oil (needs new seals though) in all 3 diffs, freshened the shocks too and added 42.5wt shock oil. Also swapped my 23t pinion for a 15t, much happier now! Need to stiffen the shocks a bit I reckon but other than that she's running mint!

Video of it running and a few pics of the rig ??

DSC00001.jpg
 
I've seen a number of people on here that have done the suspension conversion kit (HPI-87245), is it worth it? I've been tossing up whether I want to do it or not, mainly for the camber adjustment. Its ridiculously expensive though! ?
Here in aus its retailing over $250AUD!
Hobbies Direct, the hobby store where I get most of my stuff from, have it up for $278AUD!!!

Surely thats a bit extreme for what it offers? ?
It looks pretty interesting but it would at least have to come in another color before I could pay that much for it. It would take quite a bit of work to remove all that purple anodizing. I’m curious too on the performance aspect.
 
It looks pretty interesting but it would at least have to come in another color before I could pay that much for it. It would take quite a bit of work to remove all that purple anodizing. I’m curious too on the performance aspect.

Actually, it's not as hard and time consuming as you'd think to remove the purple ano. But, then again, it also depends on how polished you want it to look afterwards. If you just want the purple striped off and quick polish, it could easily be done over a weekend.
 
Are those parts re-ano'd red?

I wish. They are just spray bombed. Aluminum primer, then paint. Used liquid mask where the bearings go so no loss of tolerance. Worked ok for the first go. ?‍♂️
 
What did I do to my Savage today?

Mocked up a set of trucks from a penny skateboard to test viability as a wheelie bar :ROFLMAO:Photo Jul 02, 10 18 48 PM.jpgPhoto Jul 02, 10 18 27 PM.jpg
 
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What did I do to my Savage today?

Mocked up a set of trucks from a penny skateboard to test viability as a wheelie bar :ROFLMAO:View attachment 8191View attachment 8192

Have you ran it yet? Curious to see if they would work in that position/ angle? I think they would have to be extended out some. I put some rubber airplane wheels on the wing of mine to keep from draggin the wing on the pavement.
 
Have you ran it yet? Curious to see if they would work in that position/ angle? I think they would have to be extended out some. I put some rubber airplane wheels on the wing of mine to keep from draggin the wing on the pavement.
I have not mounted it yet. I was just checking if it would work. It's probably going to be a couple of weeks before I actually do it.
 
I've been refilling the diffs in the Flux XS cuz all the oil leaked out from when I started refilling them yrs ago. Never replaced the o-rings with new ones, opps. And getting the truck back together. Just have to wait for the new motor for my son's Losi strike so I can get my ESC back for the XS.
 
After my recent rebuild of the rig, the diffs already started leaking. Ordered new gaskets, orings, and ali cases to rebuild the front and back diff completely like new.
Also going to look into getting orings that aren't made of silicone. Whoever decided a silicone oring in a case with silicone oil was a good idea I will never know ?‍♂️
 
After my recent rebuild of the rig, the diffs already started leaking. Ordered new gaskets, orings, and ali cases to rebuild the front and back diff completely like new.
Also going to look into getting orings that aren't made of silicone. Whoever decided a silicone oring in a case with silicone oil was a good idea I will never know ?‍♂️

If you can find them, use the Ofna P46 o-rings for the outdrive cups in the diff along with 500k or 1m diff oil to coat the o-rings when you install them. That will stop them from leaking.
 
@xtremsavage do you happen to know what material they are?

I'm buying some nitrile ORings from an O'Ring supplier we use at work. After talking to their team they are very puzzled as to why silicone O'Rings are used with silicone lubricants. Not a good mix - same can be said for silicone O'Rings used in shocks. what a dumb design.

The O'Ring supplier said that the silicone O'Rings may have some additive in them to prevent wear.

Either way, if these nitrile ones go well. I'll consider doing a bulk order and selling some as wee kits. Turns out 6x2mm O'Rings are quite common!
 
Can someone explain why using silicone o-rings with silicone fluid is not good, as they are typically used in every rc car. I cannot see any chemical incompatibility and they take less compression set than nitrile apparently. O-rings will wear, take set over time so will need replacing, usually when a fluid leak is observed.
 

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