What did you do to your HPI Savage today?

[JVT73]

Let the fun begin: Disassemble the x4.6 that I just got from eBay and cleaning/inspecting everything. Started some initial reasembly on the XL TVPs that came with the truck.

Holy packed with grease batman...

Reassembly begins

 

[h00vy]

Front end differential was grinding after a nasty tumble. Disassembled it last night, now I know why... Here we come eBay.

 

[Bauerdog]

Front end differential was grinding after a nasty tumble. Disassembled it last night, now I know why... Here we come eBay.View attachment 2341

Front end differential was grinding after a nasty tumble. Disassembled it last night, now I know why... Here we come eBay.View attachment 2341

if you mashed your ring gear too, spend the extra bucks and get the machined set

 

[h00vy]

if you mashed your ring gear too, spend the extra bucks and get the machined set

I did buy the machined set, but from my research, that is what my Flux came with??? At least the part number in the parts breakdown matched the 'bulletproof' version.

 

[hpicelery]

I believe you're right, the machined set is standard on the Flux HP. You can make them last longer by shimming them, though.

 

[Bauerdog]

I did buy the machined set, but from my research, that is what my Flux came with??? At least the part number in the parts breakdown matched the 'bulletproof' version.

Ya I think 'bulletproof' refers to the 29/9 tooth count. They come in both machined and sintered gear sets. Opposed to the old 'non-bulletproof' 43/13 tooth gear sets on older model trucks.

 

[hpicelery]

True, but what he was saying is that the Flux HP already comes with the machined set.

 

[Bauerdog]

Right on, I was unaware that any models came with machined gears. Just wanted to make sure he didn't get the sintered.

 

[h00vy]

Right on, I was unaware that any models came with machined gears. Just wanted to make sure he didn't get the sintered.

No, I sure didn't get the sintered ones. Judging by this site, they are 'junk'

And I order 2 shim kits, (2 different sizes) 'savagejunky' on youtube is very helpful to me!

 

[Derekpike]

Bought a new motor to throw in the 25. 85 shipped for a 7.7.

 

[Caretaker109]

How will you make it fit? iirc it needs some modifications for it to fit in a Savage.

And did you order some extra axles and diffgears?

 

[Derekpike]

How will you make it fit? iirc it needs some modifications for it to fit in a Savage.

And did you order some extra axles and diffgears?

I'm not sure if it will fit or not. I figured $85 was worth the gamble. If not I'll see if it will fit in my Cen Matrix Arena TR and throw the Collari. 30 in the Savage.

I've got bulletproof diffs and super heavy duty dogbones and cups in my cart in Ebay, just haven't ordered them yet. They will go in before I run this motor though.

 

[Caretaker109]

For heavy duty dogbones you can order these: http://www.innovative-rc.com/ultra-heavy-duty-drive-shaft-savge-p-793.html Thickest ones I could find. Mounted them in my Savage and they are great.

Still looking for some center dogbones like this but they are harder to find..

So for the moment I mounted this one http://www.innovative-rc.com/ultra-heavy-duty-front-center-dogbone-78mm-p-251.html

And the rear one is FLM extended..

 

[Derekpike]

Those look beastly @Caretaker109 Do they ship to the States though? Found some on Ebay, but they don't look the same.

 

[Caretaker109]

The ones you found on eBay are stock hpi dogbones.

Innovative rc does ship worldwide.

 

[Derekpike]

Ok t

The ones you found on eBay are stock hpi dogbones.

Innovative rc does ship worldwide.

Thanks. Same part number obviously different part. What cups would I use for those? The same Flux ones?

 

[Caretaker109]

Stock flux cups will be fine.

 

[mikelh]

Today I finished assembling the X SS after replacing cracked engine mount plate, rear center dogbone and drive cups, brake pads, diff gearing change to 29/9 bullet proof, diff carrier bearings, clutch shoes and springs and bearings. I also swapped out LRP .30 in favor of the K 4.6 with a 15T clutch bell. I put 10k/7K in front/rear diffs. Truck runs and handles better now than it ever has. !

 

[Juarezd]

Finally painted the new body after letting sit for months. Also put some proline paddle tires on the beast. Love the way it looks now. Can't wait to try the paddles out in the sand. Just waiting for a large motor saver filter and pre filter.

 

[mikelh]

DOT wasn't using these piles today so......

 

[seeingeyegod]

Well, I'm new here. Hi everyone. I just put together a new Savage X SS kit and my engine so far will not start, and there is air and fuel coming out of the top of the engine where the glow plug is. I initially thought oh it must just be loose, so I took it out (yes it has the washer), put it back in tight, and same thing, air and fuel bubbling up around the glow plug. I flooded the engine while trying to start it of course so it became very obvious. Also can hear air sucking in from someplace other than the carb. I've never had this problem with a brand new nitro engine, and now I'm reading that you're expected to seal these engines with RTV and stuff. I've never heard of this as a rule with nitro. Most of my nitro experience comes from RC airplanes and I've never seen a new engine leaking from the glow plug. Should I try to return this?

 

[francis Labarbara]

I would try another plug and if it still leaks return it. I have not sealed any of my 8 engines and they work fine.

 

[seeingeyegod]

I would try another plug and if it still leaks return it. I have not sealed any of my 8 engines and they work fine.

Thanks for the reply. I emailed them Friday and have yet to hear a reply. Not a good feeling so far, in addition to finding multiple web sites and email address for HPI that are old and bounce emails back undeliverable.

 

[X]

Do you have a new copper washer for the glow plug? Perhaps the one you are currently using is not sealing? I suppose it is also possible that the heatsink is warped, causing it to not seal. Though I find that harder to believe. Does the glow plug tighten correctly? No slop in the threads?

 

[seeingeyegod]

Do you have a new copper washer for the glow plug? Perhaps the one you are currently using is not sealing? I suppose it is also possible that the heatsink is warped, causing it to not seal. Though I find that harder to believe. Does the glow plug tighten correctly? No slop in the threads?

Yep it has the washer. It feels completely seated when I'm screwing it in.

 

[Jam Racing 1]

Yep it has the washer. It feels completely seated when I'm screwing it in.

changing it with a new known good one may help

 

[seeingeyegod]

I guess I can do that but I don't have any other glow plugs of this type, mine are all for airplane engines, plus shouldn't a brand new glow plug from the factory already be "known good"? I know it glows, the engine has attempted to start a few times just won't actually start

 

[francis Labarbara]

I am not worried about it glowing. I am wondering if it is made correctly dimensionally.

 

[GAJ]

It is either a bad/damaged plug or a bad/damaged button. Please confirm that you are not using a Turbo plug in a non-Turbo plug engine. The threading is not compatible.

Are you sure the cooling head is tightened down? This does not sound like your problem, but you may as well check.

 

[seeingeyegod]

Well I got it started tonight! I made my fuel line to the carb shorter, it was longer than it needed to be. I didn't overprime it this time, though I did start to see bubbles in the fuel line. Then my buddy managed to tighten down the glow plug about a 1/4 turn with a torque wrench and I stopped seeing the bubbles and hearing suction around the head so I guess it just wasn't tight enough. Ran about 1/3 of a tank, then another 2/3 while trying to keep it at approx 1/4 throttle the whole time with my finger. Got some fumes in my lungs. Good times. Also realized its much easier to prime by blowing down the muffler pressure tube than cranking it while covering the muffler.

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