sharkattack99
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 926
- Location
- Moses Lake Wa
- Thread starter
- #31
I do to but that's as far back as the bell will go.
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All this would do is bind the flywheel with the front bearing as the collet needs to be shimmed as is. It's not subjective, its fact...so what in the world is making you even suggest that? Also if you affect the taper its going to cause the flywheel to slip something fierce. Some folks do want to get it set up right, you know.only other thing i can think of is some how moving the flywheel back, perhaps filing the back of the collet or maybe a shorter one
Girlypants, that's a pretty ridiculous attitude you have there. If you've not tried anything except "inexpensive" clutch setups, how can you judge?
I have tried all kinds so I can provide an opinion. The Buku clutch is one of the best on the market in any class. Having that "Aw ain't no use getting one of them fancy wancy clutch. I just wrap a spring around it....she moves" attitude is why so many guys like yourself have crappy clutch setups and convince others to "go on the cheap".
If you've not tried it then why do you have an opinion on it? That's just being a blowhard. (Feel better now I said it)
Post up a vid of your Integy clutch that 'works just fine'...I'd like to see that
If the shoes are making full contact it looks fine. Just be easy on the play. I'd recommend between .70-1.20mm on this one (I usually run .70 or less), The clutch will 'work' it's a matter of how well it will work., It's simply synchronizing the traction and RPM by harnessing that 'usable power'. Let us know how you like it.
How many shims behind the collet?
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