new clutch system

sharkattack99

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925
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Moses Lake Wa
Well I'm looking for a new clutch system for my picco .28. My fironi (spelling?) System I can't find parts or shoes for it anymore. So I'm looking for a system I will be able to get new shoes for awhile. Any recommendations would be help full, specially if you've used the system you recommend. Thanks.
 

Jam Racing 1

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Well if you are thinking on changing the whole system and want ultimate performance then maybe you should check out BUKU systems..... personally I find the 3 shoe alloy setup to be more than adequate for bashing duties.....

http://bukupower.com/ClutchHPI.aspx
 

Jam Racing 1

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http://bukupower.com/ClutchHPI.aspx

Of the 3 there which would be the best choice
That's a tough one considering I really have no idea what you would prefer to have in your clutch system....
Read thru and maybe even give them a call to see what they might recommend for your needs....
Picking a clutch is kind of like picking a wife, lots to consider before you jump in with both feet and do the deed.....

These clutches are made specifically for the truck so I am sure you will be happy with whatever you decide on.....
 

X

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Huh won't let me order one anyway damn.
Curious huh? Pulls it off when you go to checkout. I'd email them and ask what's up. They have always been very good to work with in the past. I've been eyeing up both the ABK-H and BBK for quite some time, but I've still got a few sets of clutches to run through in my stock first.
 

sharkattack99

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925
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Moses Lake Wa
So it seems you can't order stuff from there website from a tablet. He says you need to have cookies enabled cause that's how it saves things when you go from page to page. I had them Enabled on my tablet oh well I got it ordered. I was looking at a new clutch system cause I think the Fioroni turbo clutch system was enough to get my savage going i believe that's the reason i wasn't getting any wheelies out of my savage. Although i did love the Ease of the installation with the Fioroni turbo system hopefully the buku isn't difficult to install the shoes when i need to replace them. I decided on the BBK system cause i do have an all metal drive system and my tranny is all metal as well as well as one titanium gear. So we Shall see.
 

X

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It's your thread. So you could do one of three methods:
1. Make a new thread
2. Amend your first post with the install and review
3. Amend your first post to forward people to the post in this thread where you are doing the install and review

Personally I'd vote #1 as it may make it easier to search for down the line. If you do that though, put a link in this thread forwarding to the new one.
 

sharkattack99

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Messages
925
Location
Moses Lake Wa
I also bought there crank Case caps as well see how they work. I'll just make a new thread. even though it's a clutch install is putting it in the nitro engine thread still ok? I didn't see a clutch one unless I missed it.

I'll should have put this in the drive train section I see more clutch questions there didn't think that the clutch would be part of the drive train so I kind of answered my own question lol. Sorry for all the questions.
 

RickBoblee

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SharkAttack99, I have run Buku and perhaps can provide some feedback. As everyone is aware the key for clutch selection on the savage is to ensure the the shoes don't hit the top of the bell. This is challening due to shallow bell wall depth. In general, the clutch nut length defines if you can run the clutch, However, Buku is a little different, as there are a few prequisites than decrease the end float, thus marin for error.

If setup and/or tuned incorrectly it will cause you problems. Flywheel requires 1+ shims behind the collet. This eats in to the end float and the spacer cannot be used at this point (so sugest getting a shim kit). In a pefect setup you will have ~ 1.5-2mm to play with before the bell hits the shoes or the bell hits the spur. I've run ABK (both m and h) and BBK. Preference is ABK (h) depending on the engine I run and where I'm running.

New bell is a must. Contamination of material (even nylon) will foul komposite within minutes. These shoes do not like hot bells. You're bell will most likely change colors (on the outside as well) just keep an eye on it

Regarding the clutch tune, the engagement settings are akin to .70mm to 1.5. This also means larger margin for error if you are unsure how to listen to your clutch. The komposdites were designed for staggered engagement. While you can set each the same for a more abrupt, violent engagement, it's another clutch. But leveraging the tension window to get the first shoe to engage as quickly as possible without bogging, then setting the remaining two so they are progressive gives the truck an "electric feel". Accelertion is instantaneous so to keep it progressive timing of the next two shoes isn critical. Takes some practice but once you get it set up it is impressive.

Some people have had success setting all shoes to engage at once. As with all clutch systems as long as you have available traction to pull that off you are good. which is nice assuming you can get required traction as those BBK induce quite a bit of torque. If traction is lost and wheels spin, bell gets hot and komposites can ultimately become rendered useless.

So the principles are same for any aftermarket system with the Savage, you just have to be spot on wit it or the clutc will hinder performance.
 

sharkattack99

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925
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Moses Lake Wa
So basically I chose a complicated clutch system for me still being kind of a noob still, we'll nuts I was looking for a clutch system that wasn't really complicated to run. And not to ment all my clutch bells I can't use now I was hoping because I didn't run aluminum shoes that I could still use them crap..well that's for the heads up before I did and mess up an 80 dollar clutch system.

I will mostly be running in dirt, and gravel (off road for the most part) and would a vented clutch from hpi work? Also should I tone down the tq gearing wise? And what you recommend for gearing. I'm sure I'll have more questions later...lol. again thanks for the info.
 

RickBoblee

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It's incredibly easy to use, just as with anything you need to understand how to use it or you will not take full advantage of it. The team at Buku are top notch guys and will help set you up for success as will whose used it. As for bells, vented bells obviously dissipate heat. The komposite material will last l;onger and perform better when the temp of your bell is between 400-500 (note if you use a temp gun add ~30-40 degrees as external temps are a bit lower)., You will be able to tell by the color of the shoes and bell. Just follow the direction and you;'ll be fine. The idea behind a clutch is to synchronize the acceleration torque with the RPM (you don't want to engage early drawing too much power from the engine nor have a wide RPM gap--static draw, wheel spin, etc).. The clutch you have is very nice in that you can make adjustments on the fly as opposed with removing the unit and replacing springs.
 

X

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The clutch you have is very nice in that you can make adjustments on the fly as opposed with removing the unit and replacing springs.
Can you elaborate a little bit on this? Are you saying that in the truck the clutch can be adjusted? How are adjustments performed?
 

X

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Didn't see that. As far as the flywheel, the kit comes assembled on it, so unless you just buy replacement shoes you would be good to go.
 

RickBoblee

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Correct. Shoes last much longer than alum (~3-4 gallons). So you get a clutch that has a range of .70 - 1.50 (approx) in spring tension as well as a the ability to tune very quickly. It can also push the truck as a well as a four shoe (which I have run in the Savage as well), the only catch is it requires proper setup and care.
 

RickBoblee

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I had someone ask about the clutch nut and how that defines the kits that can be used and might as well respond to all. Most bells are going to have an ID between 1.02" - 1.05"" When used withing the range of flywheel pins, most shoes will fit within the ID. There are some exceptions, and some will swing a few mm further, but they fit. Not all shoes and/or springs will properly spring up with the clutch nut though The challenge is to properly shim When using clutch setup on the Savage, you want the smallest clutch nut (length) you can get. Anything 1..5-2mm longer than then stock (and lots of them are) on the stock flywheel will push the bell out to where you'll hit the spur gear, or even best case scenario its shimmed so tight your bearing blow after a tank. So otjher clutch shoes sprigs will work (with varying attributes--shoe weight, swing, distance, etcI..but if the clutch nut is too llong and cant shim it right you'll go oa tank at the most I've run a lot of clutch setups on my Savage to prove this out. Let me know if there are any more questions I'll help as I can.
 

sharkattack99

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925
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Moses Lake Wa
So will the clutch system I bought work? Cause I'm starting to think it's not with out More money in it...lol its getting confusing is what I'm saying.
 

RickBoblee

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Hell yeah it''ll work...but as I've been saying just if you shim it wrong your screwed. Does that clear it up?
 

sharkattack99

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925
Location
Moses Lake Wa
Ok so I got the clutch system is this enough space between the bell and the shoes? Hope you can see it. It does spin freely


And would a 43/17 gearing be ok with trenches cause I think I need a thinner spur gear? And I have a 43 I also have a 52 but that might be more torque gear wise than I need or want and it won't fit with a 17 bell and that's what I have new.
 

GIRLYPANTS

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England
cant it line up any better, the clutch bell needs to come back, I'm sure it will run fine like that, but if it were mine id like the spur gear and cb gear to be in line
 
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