new clutch system

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like i said fandangled hyped up parts that the original clutch with the right springs works perfectly if not better, feel for you there shark its frustrating when you spent all that money and it just ends up a pain the rear, theres only so much you can to do to get that cb to line up with the spur gear
 
And like I said, how do you know this if you haven't run it? Why you are calling a clutch 'crappy' if you have never tried it. What are you even basing that on? Or do you just spout opinions with no substance?

Stock works fine on certain terrains but not meant for high-bite. What advantage did you even get from switching from stock to Integy? The stock springs are .90mm, hardly enough to allow the engine to draw much power. Other than M2C bearing to bell engagement is as good as I've tried. So I can compare and provide objective facts instead of subjective opinions like you are doing. I have no skin in it with respect to what clutch he runs, but instead of dismissing something I know nothing about, I'm helping him be successful with it based on what I've learned with what he has.

OP--unsure of your experience with nitro in general, but I think you'll find often to be truly successful with certain aspects it takes some focus and paying attention to the finer details as opposed with settling. Often its the difference between vehicles that rip a** and those that don't.
 
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This thread has derailed a bit due to a few people. Keep your comments about helping Sharkattack99, or don't post at all.

Further derailments will be deleted. Thanks. ;)
 
sorry x i was just stating that some of these after market parts get all the hype but turn out to be more trouble than what they are worth, somethings are best left simple, its ok tho i didnt take any offence to rick, takes all sorts to make the world turn :)
 
Well after taking it apart to take the cap off and see if that helps I noticed that the shoes and the bell were rubbing.


So I put one more shim hope that will help. But after taking the cap off my bell sits back more and I can use my RR spur sweet.

It's still a little close to the bell but spins freely and doesn't rub. I have 1 shim behind the collet now and seems great. Will have to wait till the weekend before I can run it and see how it goes.
 
first thing ..... what hell did you do to your thumb, that looks like it hurt
its still not lining up right, i would be worried about running it like that, i know you could do without a negative remark but i really would be inclined to pull it off and put it down to bought the wrong part for the savage, it just isnt right
 
Lol oh that that's just the way my nail grows for some reason Not sure why.

Well it meshes better than it did before, I couldn't even get that spur in there. I think if I get that metal 47t spur from hpi it's thinner it will line up. Trial and error is pretty much what this hobby is about lol at least it has been for me Anyways.
 
Just move forward, Shark.It'll all come together soon. I promise, ;-)

Buku doesn't sell parts for a specific vehicle if its not proven. I run it. Successfully. Took me some trial an error due to the TVP and engine plate I was running (they were not compatible and thus the setup is unorthodox) but I can only think of one scenario it doesn't work, I've run it multiple engines, IRC TVPs as well as two HPI TVPs, three different bells and two slipper units. Either that or I'm just making it all up because I want you to suffer. ? It works more than fine. "Work" is a subjective definition of course. The only clutch that can rival it for Savage based on what I've run is M2C, but that clutch has its own issues--know that. Just part of the game.

Bad news...your bell is probably jacked. Good news---now you know. Better news...your bell is not rubbing against the brakes, which can be a problematic to solve. There was some heat going on in there--you were lucky. You can try to roll with that bell again but if you can't get right that is definite enhancement., As noted above all just don't let those bearings pop due to heat (as is the case with any clutch).How was your collet? Was it scored? Usually sign of flywheel slipping (mainly due to front bearing leak) but any number of things can cause it. Just like your doing...inspect the components...they will give you all the detail you need. If you have the ability to post up a vid I can give you my thoughts on it. What engine are you running (I'm sure I have it). I can then duplicate your setup for a comparison (good or bad--ha ha) I switch engines and what-not all the time on my Savage no big deal),

Scrape the shoes with an Emory board, replace bearings, scour inside of bell. Its a learning experience, add it to your knowledge base, get it locked and loaded and go get some!
 
Got it. Do you know if the engine plates are for those TVPs? A lot of times aftermarket TVPs will 'extend' the wheel base and consequently there is a specific plate for it. This is where I went wrong recently trying to get cute, running a plate from one make not considering it was for TVPs that extended the wheel base in the rear yet the TVPs I had were standard length (I prefer a shorter wheel base), It 'fit' but caused the brake disc to rub against the bell on big landings. Do you know if your is extended, and if so, where?

I don't run the FLM TVPs but I do know a guy who ran a Buku clutch (Picco Boost) with RR slipper and FLM TVPs. I'll ask him what TVPs/plate it was. He might even be on here.....I'll search for him. If it were tweaked you'd have a hard time with any clutch, I'd imagine...but we can get that ruled out for you.
 
Got it. Do you know if the engine plates are for those TVPs? A lot of times aftermarket TVPs will 'extend' the wheel base and consequently there is a specific plate for it. This is where I went wrong recently trying to get cute, running a plate from one make not considering it was for TVPs that extended the wheel base in the rear yet the TVPs I had were standard length (I prefer a shorter wheel base), It 'fit' but caused the brake disc to rub against the bell on big landings. Do you know if your is extended, and if so, where?

I don't run the FLM TVPs but I do know a guy who ran a Buku clutch (Picco Boost) with RR slipper and FLM TVPs. I'll ask him what TVPs/plate it was. He might even be on here.....I'll search for him. If it were tweaked you'd have a hard time with any clutch, I'd imagine...but we can get that ruled out for you.
I'm not sure I had an FLM plate to but it cracked. It is extended and in the rear cause I have alot of space behind the motor. The plate fits perfectly I didn't have this miss alignment issue with my previous clutch system. The plate was from platinum RC products.
 
either way ya go , ya gotta get those gears more inline, slot the engine mount screws carefully with a small rattail file is where I would probably do.... but one little trick ya may try is loosen all the screws for the plate to chassis and see if ya may be able to fudge it into alignment, may work also. once inline and ya tighten things up again and see if alignment shifts..... keep playing with it and see how things go.
 
either way ya go , ya gotta get those gears more inline, slot the engine mount screws carefully with a small rattail file is where I would probably do.... but one little trick ya may try is loosen all the screws for the plate to chassis and see if ya may be able to fudge it into alignment, may work also. once inline and ya tighten things up again and see if alignment shifts..... keep playing with it and see how things go.
Ok I could try that and i wish I could still get that nova engine mount it let ya go back and forth and I can't find one. Thanks for the tip
 
Ok I could try that and i wish I could still get that nova engine mount it let ya go back and forth and I can't find one. Thanks for the tip
Really is to bad Nova went out of business. They made great clutch kits too.
 
Novarossi just came out with a new clutch kit http://www.novarossi.it/2012/index.php/en/products/clutches/buggy-clutch.html
I've got one on order and am going to run it in buggy. I will, however, try it in the Savage simply to see how well it works (in the event anyone is interested in it. It's similar to a TLR design, but kind of a hybrid between their 1:8 and 1:10 three shoe offerings.

Shark, I'm putting something in your in box that I think will make your day. I'm posting up footage of abut 15 different bells (OFNA, Mugen, TLR, Serpent, Tamiya Hot Bodies, etc. ) as well as a number of Savage bells (RRP, stock, 'Racing' Vented, etc,). Short version is: the 'standard' bell depth is too deep for the Savage (most clutches). However, I noticed the HPI vented is actually more shallow than the stock and RRP bells for the Savage. Not sure if that is the HPI vented you are using or not, but stock and RRP are ~1mm more deep, which might help you out some. Still with that said, I've run the vented on the savage with Buku...so either one will work. I can put the digital calips on it if needed, but you'll see it all in your inbox.

And you guys are spot on....and adjustable engine mount is really needed for the Savage, It's not required, but provides more options in certain situations.. I have a few (from other makes)...for grins I might test it out. You never know til you try.
 
can you move the engine any farther back, might need to open the oval screw holes on engine plate a bit, to allow the engine to go back a 1mm, then just add washers to the allen key bolts, just thinking out aloud here
I'm sorry man I must have missed it my appologies. Question on that how do I got about doin that just a small file? And how do I keep my engine straight when I do? Cause it will alow it to turn or is the small amount I need it to go back won't matter. Again thank you and sorry I missed it.
 
a fine tooth needle file is what id use and just file tiny bit at a time, heres the thing tho you must make sure you have a good fitting washer for the allen head engine bolts, also the washer must be wide enough to be able to firmly tighten down onto the plate going careful as the engine mount is soft alley, id use some blue loctite on the bolts too, it is a bit of a bodge but it will work, have you a hpi alloy plate you could use, carbon fiber can crack which is why youll need a washer, to spread the load out, its late where i am and I'm a bit tired, sorry if this don't make much sense
 
a fine tooth needle file is what id use and just file tiny bit at a time, heres the thing tho you must make sure you have a good fitting washer for the allen head engine bolts, also the washer must be wide enough to be able to firmly tighten down onto the plate going careful as the engine mount is soft alley, id use some blue loctite on the bolts too, it is a bit of a bodge but it will work, have you a hpi alloy plate you could use, carbon fiber can crack which is why youll need a washer, to spread the load out, its late where i am and I'm a bit tired, sorry if this don't make much sense
No I had an FLM but it's cracked and I don't have an hpi one just the carbon fiber one cause I heard it was stronger than the HPI alloy. And sorry for the dumb question but um what's a needle file I've never heard of one of those? And should I get a heavy duty washer, ov course not to thick or won't have enough threads go in but thick enough when I tighten the bold it won't bend.
 
GP is exactly right, use a small rattail file and slot the holes back just a tad, be sure to not make them wider just a bit longer trying to keep them even and for sure use locktite and washers on the bolts.......
 
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GP is exactly right, use a small rattail file and slot the holes back just a tad, be sure to not make them wider just a bit longer trying to keep them even and for sure use locktite and washers on the bolts.......
Wider as in left to right? And longer as front to back? Right cause wider back to front is what I need.
 
i know its not the best pic, but you just need to mark where the bolts are on the plate once you got the mesh all sorted then file a small slot to allow the bolts to sit on same spot but able to go feather back
 

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