hpi savage 4.6x with lrp ZR .32 engine

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Caretaker109 said:
factory settings are off..

Mid range: 5,25 turns
•Main: 5,50 turns

And the idle gap maybe a little smaller.
Click to expand...
Ok i will try in the morning and let you know wether i managed to start it. If everything is done as you say how many pulls before it should start.
 
I just added your engine to the list... had to find the settings and verify they are accurate, and Caretaker was exactly correct.....
 
Well one thing I do know is ya have to keep after it, soon enuff it will get running, just gotta find how it likes to run....
Hope the info provided helps ya with the beast.....
 
After you see fuel in the line at the carb pull it 5 more times with the exhaust covered. Then put your glow ignitor on and try to start it. It t doesnt even try to start after 3 pulls block the exhaust and pull it 2 more times. Keep doing this. Once it tries once to start stop covering the exhaust.
 
What are your ambient temps? My LRP's refuse to start if they are below 65F or so. Once they are at or above 80F, they will fire right up and run fine. But if it's like 50F out and I let them cool down, they won't start again, so I heat them up under the heat vent in my 1:1 car with the fan/heat on high until they are at least above 75.
 
Hi Thanks everyone for the support temp is 64f , still no luck how do I warm the engine with a hot airgun, where is it best to point the hot air on the engine. Just wanna say with you guys helping me I'm gonna get this car started soon. Cant wait to take it to the park with my kid and have some fun. I'm from the UK by the way, the roto start kit is there any other place I can buy it from as model sport have no stock. And I've got blisters on my fingers from pulling the pull start lol.
 
Skyline1473 said:
Hi Thanks everyone for the support temp is 64f , still no luck how do I warm the engine with a hot airgun, where is it best to point the hot air on the engine..
Click to expand...

Point it at the engine block if you can. You can point it at the head too, but that will cool off quicker and not heat up the rest of the engine as much. The important part to heat is the piston / sleeve.
 
i heated the engine using heat gun and and after several attempts got it started by holding the throttle fully but shuts down as soon as i let got. needles are at factory settings i also noticed not much smoke coming from the exhaust and engine goes very very hot within seconds, any help appreciated.
 
Skyline1473 said:
needles are at factory settings i also noticed not much smoke coming from the exhaust and engine goes very very hot within seconds, any help appreciated.
Click to expand...

These things do not make sense together. At the "factory" setting you should be very rich. And yet the other symptoms scream really lean.

Any possibility you have an air leak?
 
Sorry there is blue smoke and did manage to start when carb is fully opened but shuts down as soon as i let go. Any idea what i should do
 
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/nitro-engine-sealing.15150/

sounds as if you do have an air leak to me, follow the directions and seal up your engine, check all o rings while it is apart including the ones on the needles for the carb, you have to remember these engines are mass produced and sometimes imperfections sneak in causing problems so sealing it will take care of most air leak issues.....
me personally tear down all my new engines and do this and it is rare for me to have troubles.....

also these threads can be invaluable when trouble does arise......

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/list-of-useful-nitro-engine-threads.13941/
 
I'm new to this so It's
Jam Racing 1 said:
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/nitro-engine-sealing.15150/

sounds as if you do have an air leak to me, follow the directions and seal up your engine, check all o rings while it is apart including the ones on the needles for the carb, you have to remember these engines are mass produced and sometimes imperfections sneak in causing problems so sealing it will take care of most air leak issues.....
me personally tear down all my new engines and do this and it is rare for me to have troubles.....

also these threads can be invaluable when trouble does arise......

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/list-of-useful-nitro-engine-threads.13941/
Click to expand...
Omg looks so difficult, i don't think i can do all that. Is there anywhere i can send it off in the uk to have it sealed.
 
Skyldescription from3 said:
I'm new to this so It's

Omg looks so difficult, i don't think i can do all that. Is there anywhere i can send it off in the uk to have it sealed.
Click to expand...
This is the description from the guy I bought it from
pi savage xl for sale. Brand new lrp zr.32 spec 2 engine fitted, still needs running in. Sits on brand new integy engine mount with a brand new hpi racing Ali exhaust. Other upgrades include after market air filter, hot bodies wheels and tyres, fuel tank bash plate, Ali steering servo saver, 7kg steering servo servo housing. Extras include shock oil, diff oil, after run oil, new brake disk, new 49 and 47 tooth spur gears, new glow plugs, about 4 litres of nitro, steel handle, old exhaust pipe and air filter, car spanners, glow starter, spare servos, a fail safe, lrp pull start that needs putting together. 2 batteries with charger, 250ml and 500ml fuel bottle transmitter and crystals in it. Everything needed to run right away but as said needs running in as a brand new engine.
 
When you adjusted the carb, did you use full turns? Or half?

I found the factory settings on my 30 seemed a little weak as well, so I started a full turn more than in the manual. Did you set yours to this?
Caretaker109 said:
factory settings are off..
Mid range: 5,25 turns (low speed needle on the carb slide where the throttle wire connects to the carb)
•Main: 5,50 turns (high speed needle sticking up where the fuel line connects)
Click to expand...

Regardless, your making progress finally!
 
Skyline1473 said:
This is the description from the guy I bought it from
pi savage xl for sale. Brand new lrp zr.32 spec 2 engine fitted, still needs running in. Sits on brand new integy engine mount with a brand new hpi racing Ali exhaust. Other upgrades include after market air filter, hot bodies wheels and tyres, fuel tank bash plate, Ali steering servo saver, 7kg steering servo servo housing. Extras include shock oil, diff oil, after run oil, new brake disk, new 49 and 47 tooth spur gears, new glow plugs, about 4 litres of nitro, steel handle, old exhaust pipe and air filter, car spanners, glow starter, spare servos, a fail safe, lrp pull start that needs putting together. 2 batteries with charger, 250ml and 500ml fuel bottle transmitter and crystals in it. Everything needed to run right away but as said needs running in as a brand new engine.
Click to expand...

Just because it is "brand new" doesn't mean it is free from defects. It also doesn't mean that due care isn't necessary during break-in. Sadly though, you don't have a manufacturer to go back to in this case because you bought second hand. All RCs require a working knowledge of the components and troubleshooting. Best to jump in now.
 
You may have to bite the bullet and tear it down though. One of my LRP's showed up brand new in box with loose back plate screws. Which requires you to take the starter cover off to even check them. Of those are tight and your cooling head screws are tight, you can loosen the carb cinch bolt and wiggle the carb around, then push down on it with your thumb and retighten the cinch bolt.

Granted, that won't fix any imperfections in any gaskets like tearing it down and resealing it would, but it will at least get rid of any possible large gaps.

Taking an engine down far enough to seal it isn't that big of a deal. That thread mentioned above gives you pretty much a pictorial on what needs done. Really, that's what you should do before getting more blisters and adding more frustration to yourself. The only "rough" part of breaking an engine down is the pull start. It has a clockspring in it that when comes unwound is a pain for inexperienced people to deal with. As long as your careful and take a few precautions, that can be avoided. The rest is just screwing/unscrewing bolts and cleaning with DA and dabbing some silicone sealant on stuff.
 
olds97_lss said:
When you adjusted the carb, did you use full turns? Or half?

I found the factory settings on my 30 seemed a little weak as well, so I started a full turn more than in the manual. Did you set yours to this?


Regardless, your making progress finally!
Click to expand...
Hi
Yes mate i set it to those settings shall i take another full turn out and see if it works before i strip the engine?
 
I just checked out the views on the LRP ZR 32 spec 2 and it looks very straightforward to seal it up, as Olds said above it should take less than an hour and will be well worth it to just do the sealing first as a precaution......

you can most likely use some light grease or vaseline on the needle o rings also if green slime is not available...

as for making adjustments on any of the air/fuel needles it is always best to view it as a clock face and a full turn would be once around the clock face....
 
olds97_lss said:
When you adjusted the carb, did you use full turns? Or half?

I found the factory settings on my 30 seemed a little weak as well, so I started a full turn more than in the manual. Did you set yours to this?


Regardless, your making progress finally!
Click to expand...
 
Just curious mate but did yours start when you did a full turn out from factory settings, I'm just thinking give it another shot with the needles before stripping down the engine. I will also have to order the materials which wont get to me until next week
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 624 (members: 2, guests: 622)
Back
Top