hpi savage 4.6x with lrp ZR .32 engine

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Yeah. I was fighting a fuel delivery issue as well. Ended up replacing the tank with a different one to get mine to stop being a jerk. To be honest, I'm not sure where it's set now, but I know it's richer than what the manual said to do by quite a bit.

Just took it off the rack to check for you. This is post break-in, so leaned out quite a bit:
HSN: 5.25
LSN: 4.25

I have the 30 spec 2:
http://www.lrp.cc/en/product/lrp-nitro-engine-zr30-spec2-pullstart-1/

The manual has:
HSN: 2.25 turns
LSN: 2.75 turns
LRP 30 S2: http://www.lrp.cc/fileadmin/product_downloads/instructions_en/32810.pdf

Which is just ridiculous as mine won't even run like that. Soooooooooo lean! Pretty sure I was running at 6 and 5 for break-in. That was rich enough to spit oil, but still run stable.

Just did a quick check, my carb and yours are the same:
http://www.lrp-americastore.com/zr-30-32-spec-2-9mm-slide-carburetor/

Listed for the 30 and 32 spec2 series.
Manual for yours:
http://www.lrp.cc/fileadmin/product_downloads/instructions_en/32820.pdf

HAH! Your manual says 5.25 and 5.5 turns! THOSE BASTARDS!
 
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Yeah. I was fighting a fuel delivery issue as well. Ended up replacing the tank with a different one to get mine to stop being a jerk. To be honest, I'm not sure where it's set now, but I know it's richer than what the manual said to do by quite a bit.

Just took it off the rack to check for you. This is post break-in, so leaned out quite a bit:
HSN: 5.25
LSN: 4.25

I have the 30 spec 2:
http://www.lrp.cc/en/product/lrp-nitro-engine-zr30-spec2-pullstart-1/

The manual has:
HSN: 2.25 turns
LSN: 2.75 turns
LRP 30 S2: http://www.lrp.cc/fileadmin/product_downloads/instructions_en/32810.pdf

Which is just ridiculous as mine won't even run like that. Soooooooooo lean! Pretty sure I was running at 6 and 5 for break-in. That was rich enough to spit oil, but still run stable.

Just did a quick check, my carb and yours are the same:
http://www.lrp-americastore.com/zr-30-32-spec-2-9mm-slide-carburetor/

Listed for the 30 and 32 spec2 series.
Manual for yours:
http://www.lrp.cc/fileadmin/product_downloads/instructions_en/32820.pdf

HAH! Your manual says 5.25 and 5.5 turns! THOSE BASTARDS!
Sorry for all the questions as I'm confused. So from close how many full turns out shall i do. Appreciate all the help guys
 
Mine is currently set to from closed:
HSN: 5.25
LSN: 4.25

Your manual has this for break-in settings:
HSN: 5.25
LSN: 5.5

So, at the very least, start with what your manual has as noted above.

Personally, I'd go a little richer on the HSN, maybe 5.5 or 5.75 turns. 5.5 on the LSN should be pretty rich.
 
Hi everyone
Have been reading up on nitro engines and have now realised my savage wont free roll when i push it like the brakes are applied. I think its something to do with the clutch. Can that be the reason it wont start or shall go ahead and try to seal the engine. Wont move forward or backward. Can anyone give me some advice.
Thanks
 
At this point my best advice would be spending an evening reading this forum. There are threads on every problem that has ever occurred. Non starts, bound drivelines, gear mesh, clutches, wont roll etc.

You are dealing with a miniature motor vehicle. It has 4 wheel drive, disk brakes, engine, transmission and differentials. There are basic function tests for all these things in those threads. My Savage won't roll freely anymore either but I know why and what parts will have to be replaced this winter.
 
At this point my best advice would be spending an evening reading this forum. There are threads on every problem that has ever occurred. Non starts, bound drivelines, gear mesh, clutches, wont roll etc.

You are dealing with a miniature motor vehicle. It has 4 wheel drive, disk brakes, engine, transmission and differentials. There are basic function tests for all these things in those threads. My Savage won't roll freely anymore either but I know why and what parts will have to be replaced this winter.
Today i managed to start it and got it idling but when i revved it the wheels werent turning i had a look and noticed the plastic wheel infront of the engine had come off so i immediately stopped the engine and checked what had fallen off and i found a spring, a red nut and a thick copper washer as well can anyone tell me which goes on first as I'm thinking maybe this was loose to begin with so I'm having all this problems.
Thank you to everyone for helping me.
 
Today i managed to start it and got it idling but when i revved it the wheels werent turning i had a look and noticed the plastic wheel infront of the engine had come off so i immediately stopped the engine and checked what had fallen off and i found a spring, a red nut and a thick copper washer as well can anyone tell me which goes on first as I'm thinking maybe this was loose to begin with so I'm having all this problems.
Thank you to everyone for helping me.

Sorry I am a bit confused??? plastic wheel? in front of engine?? are you referring to the spur gear and related parts?? if so look in your manual under spur gear/slipper and see the view of how it is supposed to go.....

 
Watch the video I linked it shows you what you need to do.... once you have it reassembled correctly then tighten the lock nut tight so the spring is compressed.... don't leave it loose as they suggest, that will burn up the slipper pad quickly

By the look of your spur the teeth are stripped and it does need to be replaced
 
upload_2016-10-13_14-40-0.png

Looks like you likely need to replace your spur, and I'm betting your slipper pad too. Also replace your lock nut, if it ran loose chances are it won't hold correctly anymore.
 
Ok i will place order tomorrow, so from your vast experience do you think this could be the reason it was not starting
Thanks for your quick replies.
 
Just checked what spares came with the car from previous owner and i have 2 spur gears 47 and 49 tooth which one shall i use. Thanks
 
whats the tooth count on the one you just took off. and does it have a new slipper pad for it?
 
On the video it mentions screws on the top which mine doesn't as its the older version it has screws on the side which i have taken off but transmission wont come out
 
if it is the older version of the Savage Transmission you have to remove one side of the chassis to get it out......
 
tighten the lock nut until the spring is fully compressed and leave it
 
Spur is a bit chipped up, but the rest looks right, I do see that your fuel inlet nipple could be rotated to the back to keep from kinking the line... loosen the lower nut just a bit and rotate the nipple back.... your idle gap looks a bit wide also... needs to be 1mm or a bit less.... use the idle screw to lower that some..

Also it looks like your clutchbell is missing the bearing and the bolt that holds it in...
you may have to remove the engine to correct this....
 
That brass bushing you showed goes to the clutchbell and bolt assembly holding in the outer bearing... got some fuel tube, cut a piece as long as that bushing is high and substitute if for that bushing......



I did that because it puts less stress on the end of my :ercm: crankshaft
 
Omg what is clutchbell bearing
I guess the guy ripped me off now could that be the cause of my car not starting
 
That brass bushing i put on the spur gear then the spring and finally the nut shown in the diagram sent by ghost. Looked at the clutchbell and there is a brass bush already there heres a better picture.
 
could be part of the trouble yes, the missing bearing will let the bell cock to one side binding up the free rotation of the bell....

These things happen when you get a used rig, it bears going over with a fine eye and use your manual to see if is all in order....
also you need a dab of blue locktite on the crank bolt when you reinstall it...

That clutch bearing should be a 5x10mm bearing

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-B021-Cl...665183?hash=item5b2b6e2edf:g:LecAAOSwLnBX5Dro
 
It looks like it has a bearing on it trying to post a better picture taking ages to upload.
 

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