hpi savage 4.6x with lrp ZR .32 engine

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just costs for parts, I would fix it all free..... I cant stand all this trouble you are having with no relief in sight for you....
 
Can anyone help please and give me a link for hpi savage xl manual for the older version. I have the new version where you take the transmission out by taking the screws out on top. But mine i have to take it out by removing one side.
Thanks
 
To remove the whole transmission you have to take off one side of the chassis plate, on the newer X style transmission only the top comes off with 4 screws to make spur changes a bit easier..... to remove the whole transmission one would still have to take off one TVP plate...
 
I am still more inclined to think that your trouble lies with spur to bell issues. and easier way to check the trans is to pull the engine out and check for play in all of the drive cups and shafts....
if it will roll back and forth with the engine out your problem is in the spur/bell mesh so reset that as described above in this same thread...
 
There are 4 bolts accessible from the underside of the truck holding the engine mount to the chassis. Remove those, the pipe header by removing the spring, disconnect the fuel line and throttle linkage and take the engine out.
 
Permission to post link:

Its a video in replacing clutch bell but, it will show you how to remove the engine and setting a good mesh in your spur and clutch bell. I hope this helps.

 
1476694558073-1422653726.jpg thank you guys engine is out and it does free wheel back and forth the spur gear moves freely. Thank you thank you everyone.
 
14766947686531674067184.jpg the beast. The gear at the front does not turn freely, clockwise impossible to turn anti clockwise will turn but piston moves as well. What do i do now please
 
Sounds like your bearings are seized or the clutch springs broke, or there's a bad shimming setup on it. The gear on the engine is the clutch bell (CB). It should spin very freely in both directions.
 
Hi
I took the clutch bell out and the bearings seem ok. Its got three shoes 1 shoe had tension when i pulled it outwards the other 2 were very lose and just popped out. Here are some pictures of the shoe and spring. If you guys can tell which clutch shoe is ok the 2 loose ones or the one that has tension. Can that be the reason clutch bell did not turn freely. Now i have loosened the nut on the clutch bell it turns freely but now and then it catches something and there's no free spinning. Shall i just replace the shoes, spring and the bearing. Which springs shall i put on the shoe as it comes in 2 size 1mm and 1.5mm.
Thanks for your help guys.
 
20161018_203035.jpgone of the shoe has tension when you pull outwards 2 of them loose the spring had no tension just came off as soon as i pulled it.
 
If it's not put together right, then there won't be tension on the shoe holding it in. That shouldn't stop the cb dead, but it will make it very difficult to start as the dragging shoes will kill the engine. Could also be the springs are sprung/stretched out.

That said, if the CB only spins freely when you loosen the bolt holding the CB on, then your issue is a shimming issue. With proper shimming, the screw should be tight and the bell should spin freely, even with a hair of play so it doesn't bind when things heat up and expand. You cannot run with a loose CB bolt or it WILL fall out while running which will torch your spur, possibly the shoes and lose a bearing.
 
mates97_lss said:
If it's not put together right, then there won't be tension on the shoe holding it in. That shouldn't stop the cb dead, but it will make it very difficult to start as the dragging shoes will kill the engine. Could also be the springs are sprung/stretched out.

That said, if the CB only spins freely when you loosen the bolt holding the CB on, then your issue is a shimming issue. With proper shimming, the screw should be tight and the bell should spin freely, even with a hair of play so it doesn't bind when things heat up and expand. You cannot run with a loose CB bolt or it WILL fall out while running which will torch your spur, possibly the shoes and lose a bearing.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks mate
Most of what you say I understand and I'm gonna replace clutch shoes spring and bearings but can you explain what you mean by shimming issue, a lot of the guys have mentioned this but I have no idea.
Thanks
 
Ive looked at the manual and it shows a washer/metal disk on top of the clutch shoes then the bearing cb and the rest mine did not have a washer/metal sitting on the clutch shoes, i think that was the reason for no free spinning of the cb, can someone correct me please.
 
The clutch bell has 2 bearings in it. The screw in the front of the crankshaft retains them. Shimming refers to placing washers of the correct size either between the inner bearing and the clutch or the outer bearing and the screw or both so the clutch bell does not drag and has about .5mm play in and out
 
Shims are the thin washers you see between the bearing and the screw/washer holding it on:
2016-1019-SavageX-18TCBShims.jpg


I find that the traxxas teflon shims take up a lot of the gap, then I use thinner metal shims to get it so there is a little bit of play when you push/pull on the cb to allot for expansion when things are hot.

Traxxas 5x8x.5mm teflon: https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas-5x8x0.5mm-teflon-washers-20-tra1985/p3272
Thin metal 5x7x.2mm shims: https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-5x7x0.2mm-clutch-bell-shim-10-ptk-h-5906/p188794

If you have too many shims and tighten the screw, they bind up the bearing. If you have too much slop, the shoes will come out from behind the bell and wear badly then hang up on the back of the bell.

You can also shim the flywheel out by putting larger shims on behind the collet, but I don't think you need to go that far, and at this point, may be a bit more than you can deal with.
 
You have to decide that. It has to be fitted. Start with one between the clutch and the bell. Put it together and check the play and for rubbing and clutch shoe coverage. If it drags add another. Then add ones to the outside until you get .5mm end play in the bell. When you are done it should spin freely and fully cover the shoes.
 
1476969197485166949217.jpg bearings and shims shall i put it like clutch shoes shim bearing shim cb bearing lrg bearing then the screw
 
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