hpi savage 4.6x with lrp ZR .32 engine

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Is that better. Its powered on the rig and the brakes are applied so wont run freely when pushed.
 

Attachments

  • 1476453568704-1565568857.jpg
    1476453568704-1565568857.jpg
    123.1 KB · Views: 2
Skyline1473 said:
Is that better. Its powered on the rig and the brakes are applied so wont run freely when pushed.
Click to expand...

That is not centered. The servo horn assembly should be perpendicular to the TVPs when neutral. Look at my instructions in my previous post.
 
I spoke to the guy who sold me the car and hes saying the spur gear and clutchbell is on too tight. Is there any truth in what hea saying
 
X said:
That is not centered. The servo horn assembly should be perpendicular to the TVPs when neutral. Look at my instructions in my previous post.
Click to expand...
How do i do that please
 
With the transmitter on and the radio trigger at neutral, remove the screw from the servo horn, wiggle the horn to get it off the servo, then put it back on so it's closer to being at a 90 degree angle with the side of the truck. Then put the screw back on and adjust your linkage as necessary for brake and throttle.

The issues your having aren't big issues. Just a lot of little nit picky stuff. If you had started with a new RC, you would still have some of these issues due to your lack of knowledge. I don't mean that in a bad way, it's just a fact.

RC's came pretty second nature to me, but I've messed with electronic stuff, small engines most of my life. I didn't get my first real RC until I was 25, 15 years ago. What I didn't know when I got my first one was that there is a break-in process and I didn't realize how non-water resistant the electronics were. I got my first rig around Christmas time. There was snow on the ground. I couldn't get it started outside and fired it up on my dining room table the first time... man, that was loud. Then I ran it like I stole it and the electronics got wet due to the snow, then I had a run away at WOT. Ended up in pieces because it went into a neighbors car port at WOT and smashed into a concrete pole. I had to rip the fuel line off it to kill it. Was a very terrifying 30 seconds of my life! LOL! That was all by tank 2 or 3 of fuel.

I also didn't know about forums at the time. I ran RC's for 2-3 years before it occurred to me that there were forums online for them. Was a rough few years of learning by trial and error.

You might be best off starting your own thread. Then it's isn't mixed in with this one that was asking about a 32 engine issue.
 
Skyline1473 said:
How do i do that please
Click to expand...

You need to stop being so timid and lazy with this. If you can't jump in and diagnose/ work on your RC you will never get anywhere with it. There is alot of good information both on this site and the rest of the web. I suggest you start reading, especially the manual.
 
Now ive sorted the brake issue carb is wide open and wont close to 1mm no matter how much turn out the idle screw.
 
Right ive got the carb back at .5/1mm opening. Now if some one can shed some light on the rolls forward freely but not backwards is that the norm. Thank you guys for helping me out.
 
when it rolls backwards it is turning the spur and bell so if your is not rolling well backwards then it is the spur and bell mesh that is causing this issue.
you have to loosen the 4 :ercm: mounting bolts and slide the engine away from the bell just a bit.... I went over this with you yesterday so now you must do some work and adjusting for yourself.....
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
when it rolls backwards it is turning the spur and bell so if your is not rolling well backwards then it is the spur and bell mesh that is causing this issue.
you have to loosen the 4 :ercm: mounting bolts and slide the engine away from the bell just a bit.... I went over this with you yesterday so now you must do some work and adjusting for yourself.....
Click to expand...
Is that the 4 screws on the bottom
Jam Racing 1 said:
when it rolls backwards it is turning the spur and bell so if your is not rolling well backwards then it is the spur and bell mesh that is causing this issue.
you have to loosen the 4 :ercm: mounting bolts and slide the engine away from the bell just a bit.... I went over this with you yesterday so now you must do some work and adjusting for yourself.....
Click to expand...
4 bolts beneath the engine yes but it looks it will only move sideways.
 
These bolts yes cant see how the engine will move back. Good to chat with you maye5
 

Attachments

  • 14764760729081388907603.jpg
    14764760729081388907603.jpg
    104.9 KB · Views: 0
It is because the :ercm: is only going to slide side to side, it will NOT move back and forth, I told you this also earlier... as for that misalignment issue I am sure something is bent, it is past time to take it all apart and find what is broken or bent......
do you have the mechanical skill required to do this only you can answer. these are NOT toys, they are a full on model of a 1/1 truck and everything has got to be in alignment and not broken to make it work as intended....
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
It is because the :ercm: is only going to slide side to side, it will NOT move back and forth, I told you this also earlier... as for that misalignment issue I am sure something is bent, it is past time to take it all apart and find what is broken or bent......
do you have the mechanical skill required to do this only you can answer. these are NOT toys, they are a full on model of a 1/1 truck and everything has got to be in alignment and not broken to make it work as intended....
Click to expand...
No i don't have the skill to strip engine mate. So you're saying because something is bent its not rolling back and the spur bell mesh wont rotate freely
 
I am not talking about stripping the engine, I am talking about taking the truck apart to check things like the chassis plates, engine mounting plate, and suspension assemblies for damage causing that misalignment of the spur and bell...

as for the mesh all you have to do is slide the engine away to the side a bit to loosen the mesh so it will roll properly....

but my recommendation is to take the thing down to components for a visual inspection..
it may look daunting at first but you have the instructions and it will actually go easier as you get into it....

if you are not that comfortable with doing all this then seek help from a local hobby shop, who knows maybe they will help you learn about these beasts and take some working knowledge with you.....
Jumping head first into Nitro stuff can be very tough even for people with a working idea of how things work, so buying something used or cobbled together by people online can make it doubly hard, but I am confident you can get through this and get a working rig even if it is hard to do....
 
Thanks mate tomorrow i will give all the components a good indpection and slide yhe engine a bit to see if i can get the spur and bell to move freely. Will keep you posted and thanks for advice
 
Hi everyone
Can anyone tell me why my throttle servo somtimes doesn't respond to my transmitter, my batteries are fully charged.
 
Skyline,

I have just read through this whole thread. Although Jam and others have been extremely helpful, not having the truck sitting in front of them makes this process extremely difficult. Unfortunately, this purchase is most likely going to taint what is a very fun and enjoyable hobby.
In my opinion, you will need to find someone local to you to help you. Most R/C hobbiest will be more than happy to assist, Local Hobby Stores will also help at a price.
If you cannot return it, you may as well take it apart. If you remove the engine, you will be able to determine 1, if the truck will now roll, and 2, if the clutchbell will spin freely.
In regards to your throttle servo, if everything is charged up and turned on, the servo should respond to the trigger, always.
Best of luck.
 
GAJ said:
Skyline,

I have just read through this whole thread. Although Jam and others have been extremely helpful, not having the truck sitting in front of them makes this process extremely difficult. Unfortunately, this purchase is most likely going to taint what is a very fun and enjoyable hobby.
In my opinion, you will need to find someone local to you to help you. Most R/C hobbiest will be more than happy to assist, Local Hobby Stores will also help at a price.
If you cannot return it, you may as well take it apart. If you remove the engine, you will be able to determine 1, if the truck will now roll, and 2, if the clutchbell will spin freely.
In regards to your throttle servo, if everything is charged up and turned on, the servo should respond to the trigger, always.
Best of luck.
Click to expand...
Ive managed to get the carb setting right and the servo and now it will free roll forward but not backward. I'm gonna try and get the spur and clutch bell mesh adjusted by moving the engine away from the c/b and see if that helps if not gonna take engine out. The spur and c/b is impossibly to move by finger so maybe its the mesh thats not right anyway will keep you guys posted. Unfortunately i don't have any rc stores near me.
 
some people use a strip of paper folded in half and run it between the gears while setting mesh, I prefer the eye and feel method, takes a bit of fiddling but it works for me :)
 
The spur should definitely spin in at least one direction easily. The other direction causes the truck to move forward. If you hold the clutch bell stationary, you should be able to rock the spur back and forth just a hair. You want a little play, but not a lot. The spur should spin very freely.

Took a quick video of mine:

My mesh may be a bit on the loose side. At the beginning, I have a screwdriver holding the clutchbell stationary so you can hear the "tick" of play between the bell and spur. Then I spin it in the free-spin direction (clockwise from the rear) then I spin in the direction that rotates the tires (counter clockwise from the rear). This gives you an idea of what it should do.
 
olds97_lss said:
The spur should definitely spin in at least one direction easily. The other direction causes the truck to move forward. If you hold the clutch bell stationary, you should be able to rock the spur back and forth just a hair. You want a little play, but not a lot. The spur should spin very freely.

Took a quick video of mine:

My mesh may be a bit on the loose side. At the beginning, I have a screwdriver holding the clutchbell stationary so you can hear the "tick" of play between the bell and spur. Then I spin it in the free-spin direction (clockwise from the rear) then I spin in the direction that rotates the tires (counter clockwise from the rear). This gives you an idea of what it should do.
Click to expand...
Hi
Thanks for the video mate, mine does not do that. Have you any idea what it could be. I tightened the clutch bell until the spring was compressed then turned it anticlock wise 1/2 circle like it says in the manual. When i roll the rig spur and clutchbell wont turn either.
 
Skyline,
I think you are naming things incorrectly. The large gear on top is the spur gear, this is the one you tighten the nut to compress the spring.(the manual Says to then back off, most here say not to)
The small gear meshed to the spur is the pinion gear(drive gear), it is attached to the clutchbell, which is on the front of the engine. The clutchbell rides on bearings on the front of the crankshaft, and should spin freely in either direction when not in contact with the spur gear. All of this while the engine is not running of course.
 
GAJ said:
Skyline,
I think you are naming things incorrectly. The large gear on top is the spur gear, this is the one you tighten the nut to compress the spring.(the manual Says to then back off, most here say not to)
The small gear meshed to the spur is the pinion gear(drive gear), it is attached to the clutchbell, which is on the front of the engine. The clutchbell rides on bearings on the front of the crankshaft, and should spin freely in either direction when not in contact with the spur gear. All of this while the engine is not running of course.
Click to expand...
I got it so its my spur gear which has slight movement like in the video but will not rotate freely.
 
If you send me the truck I will fix it all and get it running and when done will ship it back to you, you will need to pay shipping both ways......

I have said it before and will say it one final time, tear it all down to components and inspect EVERYTHING over well.....
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
If you send me the truck I will fix it all and get it running and when done will ship it back to you, you will need to pay shipping both ways......

I have said it before and will say it one final time, tear it all down to components and inspect EVERYTHING over well.....
Click to expand...
 
That will be brilliant mate. How much will it be for the repair please
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 222 (members: 0, guests: 222)
Back
Top