ZR.32 Spec.4 engine in a Hpi savage 21?

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If i want it to last this time, could you point me in a direction of what to buy?
 
neal always had a gripe with the lrp engines and refused to take these engines seriously,
Turns out that when he started modding them they became the most powerful engines he's every worked with,

Pulling higher rpms and Hp figures on the dyno than any engine he has ever modded,
He had an lrp30 in a stock length savage That could do standing backflips
Neal now has a lot of respect for these mills,

I've a couple lrp30s from him and they are absolutely insane,
They are turning such high rpms in neals testing on the track and dyno that he's advised that
if running in a truggy/buggy I've to remove the pullstart and put on a bump start backplate as no oneway bearing can stick the rpms as he's had bearings go to pieces during testing.
Is Neal still around and modding engines? Looked under TNS a while back and it seemed dead.
 
I have the engine removed and the glowplug removed. When i turned it by hand, it goes really smooth when the piston is down. But at tdc i almost cant pull it around. For one, with the glowplug removed there should not by any compression. And even so its just at the top, when it turns. I have nothing to compare with. Any thougts, please?
 
Now, i cant even get it down... at tdc it stucks really bad, and when i get it loose it stuck at the egde as you see in the pictures? 20200412_232345.jpg20200412_232345.jpg20200412_232322.jpg20200412_232127.jpg20200412_232023.jpg
 
Ok, problem solved. It was the flywheel and the collar causing the problem. Now, it turns smooth all the way around. Maybe a New backplate Will work now that it spinns freely ?
 
I have run 4 tanks through it no, I'm not at full throttle and its still very rich (factory settings but higher idle) but still its a beast in this chassi. And I'm Only using 16% nitro and a normally run on 25 %. This can either be Good or a disaster. ??
 
Now comes the tricky part for me, ive never leaned out a nitro engine before. Ive worked with car and motorcykle engines for about 20 years but not a nitro engine. Only got the info in the manual to help me. This part worries me, because i don't want to mess up a perfectly Good engine.
 
Leaned out and I can guarenty There is plenty of power in this engine. This are about a couple of runs on dry tarmac...
 

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Well...clutchbell/spur strips only when the mesh is not correct or engine moved -again, mesh is not correct.
Correct mesh+ correctly installed engine/engineplate/engine mount + locktite you will NEVER strip gears.
 
Well...clutchbell/spur strips only when the mesh is not correct or engine moved -again, mesh is not correct.
Correct mesh+ correctly installed engine/engineplate/engine mount + locktite you will NEVER strip gears.
Or running a non-hardened bell against a hardened steel spur... did that many years ago with an OS21RG, which was not a "powerful" engine.

After 1/2 tank:
2004-0921-TMaxx-ChewedCB02.jpg


Was using a standard HPI bell against a RCSolutions tool steel spur on a big block t-maxx.
 

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