XTRA XL

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They should have come with new Big Bore shocks. I imagine any nylon bushing with the proper ID would work though...
They are listed separate as well:
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/100949

I'm using the springs on mine with white long springs instead of the softer ones it came with. They are about as stiff as the short ones.

Pretty sure I have a few sets of the tubes around... no clue where though. When I got my flux hp, it had RPM arms on it and they would twist so much on hard landings that it would snap the shock end off. The only way to get the shock ends was to buy that $16 parts tree. I spent $32 to have spares... after I busted my 4th one, I bought a full set of stock arms and ditched the RPM arms. No busted shock ends since.
 
So the current (for now) build on this truck is as follows:

FLM extended TVP’s
FLM shock towers
FLM steering drag link
FLM servo mounts (steering and throttle)
FLM motor plate
HPI Big Bore shocks (upper spring delete)
RPM A-Arms
HPI Suspension Conversion Set
HPI heavy duty servo saver spring
HPI steering post bearing upgrade
Vorza Axle/Hex Mod
Vorza Diff Mod (Vorza cups, Hot Racing machined and hardened internals)
HPI Hardened ring and pinion gears (29/9)
All metal, shimmed, 3 speed transmission
Custom fabricated servo/fuel tank plate plate
Custom fabricated throttle servo plate
Custom fabricated Rx battery holder
Custom fabricated Rx plate
RPM Rx box
HPI Octane 300cc fuel tank (vent sealed, custom mounts)
NovaRossi Plus 28-7 RT engine (4.66cc)
ERCM side bleed pipe
Stock Savage XL flywheel with Fioroni shoes
18 tooth Clutch Bell
44 tooth hardened spur gear
HiTech 7950 metal gear digital servo (steering) with a single arm Robitronics clamping style horn
Savox SH-1290 metal gear digital servo (throttle) with a 90 degree dual arm Robitronics clamping style horn
Custom OFNA throttle mod setup
ProLine 3.8 Bad Lands on Desperado wheels
Futaba R2104GF Rx
ProTek 6.6v 2-cell 1800 mah LiFe Rx battery
Acer Racing bearings throughout (unless otherwise noted)

I think that about covers everything...
 
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Are you going to use a 4 shock setup or 8? When I had RPM arms on mine with 4 shock setup, I kept snapping the shock ends off on the front shocks whenever I landed funny or big jumps. The arms twist/flex too much and snap them in half repeatedly. I'm assuming an 8 shock setup would help put the load on both sides of the arms and help with the issue.
 
Four shocks. I’m not using this truck like I use my other one. It won’t be a big air basher.
 
I kept breaking them here, almost always on the fronts after a hard front heavy landing:
2018-0310-SavageFlux-TierodEndRight-ShockEndsLeft.jpg
 
New Octane tank mounts. These slide through the tab holes and screw down on the in place M3 screws. Sturdier and easier to use than trying to line up the clamping washers I had going before.

217DEC53-B8E6-4C49-A522-684BDA3D50DB.jpeg3E09C41B-2FB8-4EFF-9C74-B5EB39A140B2.jpeg444F610F-E826-40C2-A8A8-48790739CAB8.jpeg
 
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I never cared for this gap left by using a hex adapter. It has a certain amount of slop in it that I wanted to address. So I made these little spacers to take up the slop and give it a little bling. They are tapped for M5 and screw right down on the threaded shaft. The wheel and the lock nut go on right over with no issue. Not only do they take out the slop, but they keep dirt and debris out of the gap.

6FFC5391-9200-44DC-B957-C69ED5974C75.jpeg63A35550-5715-4C0E-BEBD-AE0122D78652.jpeg1F8FDA0A-ABFB-468E-995A-3948506051E6.jpegE450C2DA-1CD5-4298-AAF6-5ECDCEE5573B.jpeg5A3DFF15-A196-4B55-8CD5-CCC7FFBC5A4D.jpeg
 
I always liked using the large sleeve spacer on the Big Bore shocks over using the upper spring. But it has no visual appeal. So, I made my own. They are the same height and weight, just better looking.

62CDCE31-EF43-4825-BD7B-6FC8FF52A870.jpeg32B7C068-0B02-4666-A259-12F5BE7D8DFB.jpeg53A76C64-3686-4F30-A0FE-20F9AD5AA7A4.jpeg
 
The cup is a composite plastic, which was scary at first but we trusted other guys who had done it and I’ll tell you I never once had a problem with it. I’ve ran this mod in my Flux but only with 4S. I knew guys who ran 6S on them and were fine. The internals are all Hot Bodies hardened gears. You can use the stock Savage stuff, but that stuff wasn’t hardened back then. Not sure if any of it is still available but there should be comparable parts since the cars are still around. Part numbers that I can remember:

Gear Set - HBSC8101-1
Diff Cup - HBSC8019
Shaft Set - HPI101029

The basic premise of this whole mod was to get away from the thin wall bearing. The hardened gears made for a pretty much bulletproof differential. You could probably find a complete Vorza diff online. You'd need to change the ring gear and the cups over to Savage.

There were guys modding their trucks with CEN diffs too but you'd be lucky to find anything like that now a days. It really is a shame nobody was able to archive the Savage-Central site because this stuff was discussed and shown in depth there. Really, it comes down to people trying things out and sharing their ideas.

About 7 years ago, I turned down the diff housing on my lathe to accept the larger bearing. It did leave the walls on that side pretty thin, but I wanted to try it... it's worked so far.
 
About 7 years ago, I turned down the diff housing on my lathe to accept the larger bearing. It did leave the walls on that side pretty thin, but I wanted to try it... it's worked so far.

I did that as well.

1B79E339-75AD-4748-833E-80178B855B42.jpeg
 

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