XTRA XL

mess1ah1

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89
Getting a start on this thread before things get too far along. I have a plethora of extra parts from previous Savage builds so I decided I'd put together another one. So far the only thing I've bought for this is the TVP's and the Nova. I think I've found everything else I need in my parts bins, or I should be able to make so I'm getting to it.
 

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olds97_lss

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Dekalb, IL 60115
I didn't have great luck with my flux hp with RPM arms and 4 big bores. The arms twist on big air landings and snap the shock ends. Got tired of snapping an end every time I ran it and swapped over to stock arms and the issue went away.

Looks like a good build started either way. Going with a center diff or two speed or 3 speed transmission?
 

mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
I didn't have great luck with my flux hp with RPM arms and 4 big bores. The arms twist on big air landings and snap the shock ends. Got tired of snapping an end every time I ran it and swapped over to stock arms and the issue went away.

Looks like a good build started either way. Going with a center diff or two speed or 3 speed transmission?
It'll be a tried and true, shimmed 3 speed.
 

mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
This truck has Vorza modded diffs with hardened internals and the hardened ring gear. The Vorza diff mod gives the benefit of having the same size bearings on both outputs. The reason used to be because the smaller bearing on the stock Savage diffs would wear out faster, also, you had two different size bearing which seamed ridiculous to begin with. These Vorza cups are strong and with the hardened internals, pretty much bulletproof. I don't know what new spec diffs look like but they used to be aluminum with cast internals that would grenade easily. That's why we started using Vorza diffs.

Another Vorza mod on this is the use of the hexs. The axle pin hole is bored out to 1/8" in order to fit the Vorza pins. You can see just how much beefier the Vorza pins are compared with the stock Savage ones. It looks like the newer spec Savages may be using similar hex setups now. Way back when, they weren't. You'd take off a tire and the hex would come off with it, thereby letting the pin fall out because gravity. Then you've invariably lost the pin and unless you were smart enough to have some in a handy tool box, bashing session over. In the fourth picture, you can see how the hex captures the pin which is captured by the axle, so no coming off. The axle spacer and the hex is a tight fit, meaning you have to pull on the axle, push on the hex and bang in the pin all at the same time to get it all to fit, so nothing is just falling out, even with gravity against you. Ah, the good old days of coming up with solutions to our bashing problems...
 

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mess1ah1

Active Member
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89
I'll be using the gigantic 300cc Octane tank on this build so I had to make a mounting plate for it. I cut it from 1/8" aluminum and basically used my FLM plate from my other Savage as the template for the mounting holes. I had to cut out a spot for the bottom of the tank because it isn't completely flat. Additionally, I drilled a hole above the servo so I can tighten the arm if needed, although I generally put a little locktite on that screw and its a clamp style anyway, but you never know...

The holes for mounting the tank are bigger than I want so I used expansion nuts as grommets and just sliced off the expansion thread. I’ll be cutting some aluminum tube spacers for the back mounts which will then attach to the cross brace in front of the tranny. The front mount will take a little more fabrication work but essentially it will attach to a custom made mount off the front shock tower.
 

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mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
Since this is a mid-tank modded Savage, I needed to make a plate to fill the space where the original tank would have mounted so I can mount my throttle servo. This is cut from 1/8” aluminum and mounted in place. I churched it up with some holes for looks. I may remake this because it seems I got a little off on my line for the holes...😐
 

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olds97_lss

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,512
Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
This truck has Vorza modded diffs with hardened internals and the hardened ring gear. The Vorza diff mod gives the benefit of having the same size bearings on both outputs. The reason used to be because the smaller bearing on the stock Savage diffs would wear out faster, also, you had two different size bearing which seamed ridiculous to begin with. These Vorza cups are strong and with the hardened internals, pretty much bulletproof. I don't know what new spec diffs look like but they used to be aluminum with cast internals that would grenade easily. That's why we started using Vorza diffs.

Another Vorza mod on this is the use of the hexs. The axle pin hole is bored out to 1/8" in order to fit the Vorza pins. You can see just how much beefier the Vorza pins are compared with the stock Savage ones. It looks like the newer spec Savages may be using similar hex setups now. Way back when, they weren't. You'd take off a tire and the hex would come off with it, thereby letting the pin fall out because gravity. Then you've invariably lost the pin and unless you were smart enough to have some in a handy tool box, bashing session over. In the fourth picture, you can see how the hex captures the pin which is captured by the axle, so no coming off. The axle spacer and the hex is a tight fit, meaning you have to pull on the axle, push on the hex and bang in the pin all at the same time to get it all to fit, so nothing is just falling out, even with gravity against you. Ah, the good old days of coming up with solutions to our bashing problems...
So, you used the vorsa diff cups with the savage internals/outdrives/ring gear so you would have the 8x16 bearing on both sides? Does the vorsa cup have steel inserts for the x-pins and a steel output insert molded into the cup?

Got a link to the cups?

I hate running that 11x16 or whatever thinner bearing. Even with alloy cups/bp gears, that bearing is still prone to fail.
 

mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
So, you used the vorsa diff cups with the savage internals/outdrives/ring gear so you would have the 8x16 bearing on both sides? Does the vorsa cup have steel inserts for the x-pins and a steel output insert molded into the cup?

Got a link to the cups?

I hate running that 11x16 or whatever thinner bearing. Even with alloy cups/bp gears, that bearing is still prone to fail.
The cup is a composite plastic, which was scary at first but we trusted other guys who had done it and I’ll tell you I never once had a problem with it. I’ve ran this mod in my Flux but only with 4S. I knew guys who ran 6S on them and were fine. The internals are all Hot Bodies hardened gears. You can use the stock Savage stuff, but that stuff wasn’t hardened back then. Not sure if any of it is still available but there should be comparable parts since the cars are still around. Part numbers that I can remember:

Gear Set - HBSC8101-1
Diff Cup - HBSC8019
Shaft Set - HPI101029

The basic premise of this whole mod was to get away from the thin wall bearing. The hardened gears made for a pretty much bulletproof differential. You could probably find a complete Vorza diff online. You'd need to change the ring gear and the cups over to Savage.

There were guys modding their trucks with CEN diffs too but you'd be lucky to find anything like that now a days. It really is a shame nobody was able to archive the Savage-Central site because this stuff was discussed and shown in depth there. Really, it comes down to people trying things out and sharing their ideas.
 
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mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
Been busy elsewhere but finally got the tank mounted. I used some aluminum channel I had laying around instead of the steel bar from earlier. The bar didn’t have the depth I needed. The tank is good and sturdy in there so I’m pleased with the outcome.
 

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mess1ah1

Active Member
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89
Loving your effects so far can’t wait to see the end result, what wheels are you going for? 👍🏻
I’ve got Big Joes, Badlands, and 5 pairs of stockers on hand. I believe I want to get a pair of street tires for this too for some speed runs.
 

olds97_lss

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2,512
Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
Looks like that tank is made for pump gas. It may have a vented cap and you might want to make sure the lines are compatible with nitro fuel before you get too far. You don't want the cap to be vented. A nitro system needs to hold pressure. That tank is huge!
 

mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
Looks like that tank is made for pump gas. It may have a vented cap and you might want to make sure the lines are compatible with nitro fuel before you get too far. You don't want the cap to be vented. A nitro system needs to hold pressure. That tank is huge!
It is for gas, it’s the Octane tank and the vent has been sealed with epoxy.
 

mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
Throttle and brake linkages worked out and installed. I believe the bits are from Dubro. I have a whole mess of them from years ago. Just so happened to have some purple. 🤷‍♂️

28AFC402-CEF9-4FE6-9CD1-66CEF95C8F04.jpeg E3AC11D1-CE26-40C4-83B3-F387357556BE.jpeg
 
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mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
Steering sorted. Savox SC-1268SG using a Robitronics 25 spline servo horn with two aluminum rod ends joined together for the steering crank. This servo was in my FLUX and worked very well with Big Joe’s so I’m not concerned about any torque issues.

D28DA7A6-95FA-4985-AACE-D008D16046C7.jpeg 8CA9DA82-EA67-4360-9420-5D87CFDDE6A7.jpeg
 
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mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
One of the drawbacks to mid tanks is losing the space for the receiver. I’ve built a few and never really cared for the solution where I mount it on the outside of the chassis. My other Nitro has it in an RPM box just behind the left front wheel. It works, but it has never sat right with me.

So, I’m going to try putting it inside the TVP’s in front of the rear bulkhead. Made a plate out of 1/8 aluminium and bolted it to an extra cross brace. (I’ll be churching that plate up later.)

It will go inside another RPM box so it doesn’t get all gunked up. The Nova is also getting a pull-start so there isn’t any conflicts. 6CC80B8C-73F0-4CA0-9ABB-A568BC72C0E4.jpeg 70A705C5-D9F2-43BA-BD64-4FFAEFE2ADB8.jpeg ED5E2A48-851E-467D-97E8-ADBA5954768A.jpeg
 

Biddie_fiddler

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HPISF Supporter
Messages
332
Location
Perth, WA
This thread is golden! Supppppper keen to see this thing running!

For one, love the phrase "church up", brilliant! Never heard that one here in Aus 😂

I have, well had, that exact steering servo in my flux rig. It was running mint till I fried it at the beach. Didn't hit any water, the steering just stopped suddenly and the servo was wayyyyy too hot to touch. Will have to strip it later on and see whats cooked inside, I think my voltage ripple is too great on the setup currently, will need to add some caps and clean it up a bit.

Couple questions.
Do you have P/N's for the rim and tyre setup you have on that rig? sooo much want!

I have been looking around for a while for those shock towers, they're the FLM ones if I'm not mistaken? If you know where I can get some pleaassse let me know xD

The last photo you uploaded of the receiver on the back, to me it looks like it might interfere with the roto-start? could just be the camera angle though.

How come you haven't gone with ali steering servo saver like this one? Uses bearing rather than bushes. had mine for years and the bearing are still going great!
 

mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
Couple questions.
Do you have P/N's for the rim and tyre setup you have on that rig? sooo much want!

I have been looking around for a while for those shock towers, they're the FLM ones if I'm not mistaken? If you know where I can get some pleaassse let me know xD

The last photo you uploaded of the receiver on the back, to me it looks like it might interfere with the roto-start? could just be the camera angle though.

How come you haven't gone with ali steering servo saver like this one? Uses bearing rather than bushes. had mine for years and the bearing are still going great!
Those tires are Proline Badlands mounted on Desperado wheels.

They are indeed the FLM shock towers. I bought them straight from FLM a number of years back.

As I stated in the post, the Nova is getting a pullstart, but the rotostart does clear.

0285C812-8213-4173-89D9-F3A155282BE1.jpeg

I use bearings in my bell crank unit instead of the bushings. The plastic unit works just fine for me so I never went with aluminum.
 
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Biddie_fiddler

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HPISF Supporter
Messages
332
Location
Perth, WA
I really want that wheel setup 😂😂
giphy.gif

Handy that the rotostart works! How come you want to switch to a pullstart?
Just for the convenience of not needing a tool to start the rig?

What pipe are you planning on using?
 
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mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
I really want that wheel setup 😂😂
View attachment 7582

Handy that the rotostart works! How come you want to switch to a pullstart?
Just for the convenience of not needing a tool to start the rig?

What pipe are you planning on using?
I like pull start better. It’s convenient. Roto will work for now I guess. It’ll be an ERCM sidebleed going on there.
 

olds97_lss

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Messages
2,512
Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
I always preferred pull start as well. Let's you feel if the engine is flooded or something else. Well... I prefer it on normal days. Break-in days tend to suck. lol!
 

Biddie_fiddler

Well-Known Member
HPISF Supporter
Messages
332
Location
Perth, WA
I always preferred pull start as well. Let's you feel if the engine is flooded or something else. Well... I prefer it on normal days. Break-in days tend to suck. lol!
In all the 3 savages I've owned I've had a pullstart. Mainly because they already came like that so I never tried out a rotostart.
Never saw the point converting them to rotostart when the pullstart worked just fine. Also its expensive to get all the poop you need 😂
 

olds97_lss

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Messages
2,512
Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
Every traxxas I've owned, I've replaced the ezstart with a pullstart. At the time, I had just one charger to charge my transmitter/receiver and starter battery. Having to charge up multiple batteries to keep everything running for a day was just something I didn't want to fuss with. I suppose now it would be less headache to have it now that I run electric and have proper chargers for packs that run in those. Still, it's nice to just have a glow heater in your pocket vs the roto-starter or ezstarter thing.
 

mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
In the past, I’ve just zip tied my rx battery tightly to the shock tower. It works, but it makes finding a way to charge it a chore, specifically when you want to ensure a balanced charge (I’ve never found an extension for the balance plug). So, I decided to go this route. Just some aluminum rod that I threaded and then a small plate cut from aluminum (churched up a bit of course). The battery rests between two slices of foam for shock and compression. It ain’t moving.

E5D83A52-3B29-4458-B565-46F85C3749CD.jpeg
 

mess1ah1

Active Member
Messages
89
Mounted the pipe today. Had to drill a hole in the FLM plate where I needed the mount to go. Cut and threaded some aluminum rod and the ERCM side bleed is on.

D64F64D6-6289-4C34-83DA-B8D1B1E8F70A.jpeg 08DFACE2-5128-42BC-9703-B0049652F23D.jpeg 09AB8F89-2D12-4D30-BD92-CF73E7B06C63.jpeg
 

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