Top 10 Recommended Savage Upgrades

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Top 10 Upgrades

Well I know this post is old but I'm going to list mine anyway.

1. Midtank conversion. Because nothing else matters if your engine ends up dead as a result of unreliable tune.
2. Bigbore Shocks. Because stock handles like a brick.
3. HPI Suspension conversion. Because the parts are way stronger than the plastic they replace and the handling benefits are amazing.
3. Tires. Because stock sucks. And I hate having to chase the truck to put it right side up. Pick a lightweight combo with molded foams for improved handling and traction.
4. Pipe. Power and sound
5. Skidplate. Protection
6. BP Diffs with composite bulkheads. Reliability.
7. HD Flux dogbones and cups. Because twisting and breaking stock bones sucks and gets expensive over time.
8. Hi torque steering servo. Quicker stronger steeering
9. Steering draglink with bearings. Stronger more precise steering
10. High quality bearings. Because they are stronger and last longer as well as being smoother.
11. High quality radio. Because runaway trucks cost money. Especially if they damage something like a car or other property. I paid for a garage door. The radio was cheaper.

I've done a lot more to mine but these are my top ten plus one. IMO the stock suspension and handling needs the most work because it doesnt matter how fast it goes til it goes straight when you want and turns like it should.
 
Well I know this post is old but I'm going to list mine anyway.

1. Midtank conversion. Because nothing else matters if your engine ends up dead as a result of unreliable tune.
2. Bigbore Shocks. Because stock handles like a brick.
3. HPI Suspension conversion. Because the parts are way stronger than the plastic they replace and the handling benefits are amazing.
3. Tires. Because stock sucks. And I hate having to chase the truck to put it right side up. Pick a lightweight combo with molded foams for improved handling and traction.
4. Pipe. Power and sound
5. Skidplate. Protection
6. BP Diffs with composite bulkheads. Reliability.
7. HD Flux dogbones and cups. Because twisting and breaking stock bones sucks and gets expensive over time.
8. Hi torque steering servo. Quicker stronger steeering
9. Steering draglink with bearings. Stronger more precise steering
10. High quality bearings. Because they are stronger and last longer as well as being smoother.
11. High quality radio. Because runaway trucks cost money. Especially if they damage something like a car or other property. I paid for a garage door. The radio was cheaper.

I've done a lot more to mine but these are my top ten plus one. IMO the stock suspension and handling needs the most work because it doesnt matter how fast it goes til it goes straight when you want and turns like it should.

I like this list...I've done many of the upgrades on it along with many others but happen to agree with you on many of your points.

I didn't do the mid-tank personally but don't really disagree with you. I just run a different configuration.

It's good to revive this thread once in a while for the new jacks who come aboard.
 
I haven't done midtank yet either but I have started compiling parts. Wasted a lot of time and money trying other options (Fuel pumps, Regulators) that didnt work. Still not 100% on moving all that weight that high but haven't found a better solution yet.
 
Same as everyone else. Midtank lean. Think I might have learned something new about it though. IDK have to experiment and see. :)
 
Hi all,

I know this thread is very old,
I was just wondering, if anyone has come up using newer parts? or any newer improvement ideas ?

e.g OFNA linkage - OFNA have been out of business and parts available are now becoming a bit of struggle to find.
The Hitec servo for throttle/break and also for throttle i presume these are quite old models?

thanks
 
The last time I did it, I used traxxas linkage/sliders, probably should have used plastic ones as I used the ones they put on the t-maxx way back when. I also used a dubro 2mm ball end with threaded end rod to the pivot vs a z-bend to remove even more slop.
2016-0603-SavageX-ThrottleLinkage.jpg


For me, I'll never not run waterproof servos again. And for t/b, I find that 200oz @.15sec is a good place to try and get to. I run an older hitec 985MG which was 172/.13, but it has held up for years, I have one in my BB revo that is probably 10 years old for t/b and steering and still works great. It's sealed on the case halves and has an o-ring for the output shaft. They don't sell that one anymore, but they still have an upgraded version in their lineup, 5985, 7985, etc.

For budget minded, the savox 0231MG would probably get you buy for steering, but the 1210SG would be a better option. Just make sure you get a cap/glitch buster to handle the instant current draw savox servos are known for. I run one of the 0231MG's on one of my 3.3 revos and it does fine there on 6V. I have another one installed on my ejato for steering and it's total overkill there. It was just what I had on hand when the traxxas 2075 died on me.
 
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OFNA linkage set up is it this part guys ?? I know I still would need to buy servo horn but what you recommend ? Anything in particular ?F93E773A-B3F6-451D-AB00-84A89354E6AD.png
 
OFNA linkage set up is it this part guys ?? I know I still would need to buy servo horn but what you recommend ? Anything in particular ?View attachment 5944
That's part of it. There are sliders you need too. Also, I'm not sure if that wire is long enough. I just used a piece of threaded end rod from my LHS and cut it to length.

This would probably work well, has the sliders, collars and possibly long enough wire:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-throttle-linkage-set-kyoif27b/p3883

With one of these for the long wire to the throttle pivot:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/dubro-2mm-swivel-ball-link-black-dub368/p19374

Or this, not sure if the wire is long enough though:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/jqracing-throttle-linkage-kit-we-jqp-jqb0025w/p663116

For the brake wire, I think you can use the collars from the kyosho kit on the stock wire.
 
That's part of it. There are sliders you need too. Also, I'm not sure if that wire is long enough. I just used a piece of threaded end rod from my LHS and cut it to length.

This would probably work well, has the sliders, collars and possibly long enough wire:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-throttle-linkage-set-kyoif27b/p3883

With one of these for the long wire to the throttle pivot:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/dubro-2mm-swivel-ball-link-black-dub368/p19374

Or this, not sure if the wire is long enough though:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/jqracing-throttle-linkage-kit-we-jqp-jqb0025w/p663116

For the brake wire, I think you can use the collars from the kyosho kit on the stock wire.

Hi,

Thank you for the reply.

I was beginning to think I wasn’t going to get a reply to this post - so I started searching on eBay for the little bits. Not even sure if I have the correct stuff, but also if it is the correct size.

But this has definitely given me a better idea as to what other bits I require
As I was just going by a picture of OFNA parts in a poly bag ?

I will post pictures of the stuff I have found, if you wouldn’t mind telling me if it’s the correct stuff and correct size I have found
 
Hi,

Thank you for the reply.

I was beginning to think I wasn’t going to get a reply to this post - so I started searching on eBay for the little bits. Not even sure if I have the correct stuff, but also if it is the correct size.

But this has definitely given me a better idea as to what other bits I require
As I was just going by a picture of OFNA parts in a poly bag ?

I will post pictures of the stuff I have found, if you wouldn’t mind telling me if it’s the correct stuff and correct size I have found

These are what your after
http://www.fastrax-rc.com/fastrax-linkage-sliders-black
 
The threaded end rod you found is M3, which is big. I think you want M2. Then go longer than you need, measure from the servo to the throttle pivot and add at least 2CM for wiggle room. Same from throttle to brake lever.

Instead of the alloy 2mm ball end and the ball stud, just get this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dubro-2mm-Swivel-Ball-Link-F-DB368/202459446773

Works fine for mine.
 
Don't forget steering bearing replacement for the bushings - oh saw it here after some reading. Big difference in the slop. I like the mods listed, no need to be crazy with a savage and most over mod them unnecessarily for no real benefit.
 

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