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i didnt get this with my lrp....but my fingers are calloused from workin on diesel engines and whatnot. dunno what you do, so no offence meant.
 
Ouch,'savage finger' sucks.Happened to me on the run in,ended up wearing a glove.The worst bit is when its almost healed then you skin it again :(
 
Damage from motor break-in. Don't understand how this could have happened. Gear mesh couldn't have been more perfect. Oh well, switched back over to the HPI alum. hub/steel ring gear set-up. I think the plastic one stripped cuz I was runnin the hardened/vented racing CB.

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Cb got to hot.. You can tell b/c it's melted

your clutch shoes were probably dragging or something .. Being a hardened cb wasn't the problem
 
Jeremy said:
Cb got to hot.. You can tell b/c it's melted

your clutch shoes were probably dragging or something .. Being a hardened cb wasn't the problem
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Never thought of that. Thanks Jeremy. It probably had to do with the break-in process then. oh well. all fixed now.
 
Damn J you must go the the local bmx track to be doing all that damage I take my savy there and beat mine and the only thing ive ever broke was my gas tank damn shock screw and a few bodies, a set of dog bones, 2 front stock a-arms let my bro run it and got nerves to fast for him so I opt for the rpm's tring to talk him into getting one but he wants electric. A motor mount and thats about it and now a new mill on the way soon. keep up the good work.
 
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Never been to a bmx track .. if you have a look at my videos , You will see the spots I break all the parts .. Huge air.

Xtream .. YES I need some TVP's LMK my man
 
Jeremy, don't know if you were j/k or what tvp's you have, but if you want them i have a set of sav X stock tvp's hanging on my peg board & you welcome to them if you want. i somehow came up with an extra set of stockers & then did the flm lcg mod.
 
J, I've got 2 sets layin around. One set is a stock non-X style version and the other is an extended set made by GPM. LMK if you want one of them. I also have an account with Hobby Etc. where I got them from and can get the rear extended dogbone (titanium) if need be.
 
I finished getting my truck together last night and just couldnt wait until this morning to run it so I went out to the shop and proceeded to get it running and re-tuned.

before the rebuild I was running pretty lean so I reset the lsn and hsn to flush and started over since I added a buku.

I had the tuning plug in the pipe and was making passes adjusting my hsn. I had just made my last adjustment and made a pass and it was running sweet so I thought "Just one more then I'll work on the pipe part of the tuning."

I ran the truck out and was bringing it back and ran out into the grass where it evidently hit a small hill and endo'd a few times then did a twist or two before doing several cartwheels when it came to rest this was the carnage.:duh:
 
Take off the aluminum a-arms and you wont have to worry about breaking the knuckle, they don't assorb any of the impact at all like the stock a-arms do.
looks cool but does more damage than good.
 
wanna see

Auto said:
I'm sorry to say this but I WISH I WAS THERE i mean a buggy got off the track misses everything gose acrosed a parking lot and over a 2 lane street and hits a wall but still gos man i wish i could have seen it tho lol and sorry that you buggy got distroyed man
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me too,,i think i would pay to see someone else besides me crash and wreck a rc,but my luck it will be me
 
Since my truck is down while waiting to get my motor back from Crash, I decided to finally go ahead and rebuild the cen diffs cause they need it.


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Do you think they need replaced at all???

Here's a pic of the 2 front FLM dogbones.
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They need replaced too.
 
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Not sure about the diffs but I do know that the drivecups look like they need replacing bad on the diffs......
 
Yeah, that's why I asked about the drive cups Jeremy. But, I forgot I already got 4 to replace them with.

Now I'm gonna start looking to upgrade to the X-style easy access setup. That way I don't have to tear everything down to work on the diffs.
 
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Damn... you should apply some kind of dry lubricant to those cups next time. That pretty much eliminated wear issues for me.

Those FLM dogbones really aren't that much stronger than stock, because the S7 tool steel is annealed. When tempered it has a yield strength of 220,000psi, and there is no way you could bend them... Try some IRC dogbones.

I also went from aluminum gearboxes to a CEN diff/easy access setup. It's great. I can remove each diff in slightly under 3 minutes with crappy hex wrenches, and less than 2 with decent ones. Despite being plastic, those housings are very strong and solid. 7075-T6 hinge pin braces (Roughly 4 times the tensile strength and 9 times the yield strength over the stock pieces) make them as durable as aluminum bulkheads.
 
i wishi had a nickel for every dogbone and shock ive ruined, lol
when i go out driving and come back home, my wife asks if i broke anything, and if i say no, she says then you didnt have fun!!
 
These are old pics from a few years back but I figured this was a good spot to post them, My buddy learned the hard way that big air and loose screws with a bad landing = massive carnage lol. Enjoy.

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carnage is definately the right word to use to describe those pics, thanks for sharing!!
 
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