HPI Savage Octane starts then stalls

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Yes got mine resolved. A new spark plug and organizing the battery box help with my stalling problem. I also had to put Loctite on the steering saver and a new steering servo because the tires burnt it up because of their size
 
I'm having a similar problem from the very first tank and have just ran my second tank. The problem is that I have to hold the throttle on the transmitter, while pulling the crank at the same time to start the car. However If I let go of the throttle it stalls. I then adjusted the idle screw clockwise right the way to end and now the car runs without stalling for about a minute . however at this max idle setting I'd expect to see the wheels spinning pretty fast but they don't move when I start the car and hold it off the ground(with the help of a friend) on the max idle setting. Lol. I also still have to hold the throttle and pull the crank at the same time to start the damn car every time! Is this normal? I haven't touched the HS or gear transmission as it says not to until your on then 3rd or 4th tank in the manual. The car still hasn't come out of 1st gear yet either but then I haven't caned it yet as I'm only still breaking in the engine. Saying that, I then got 20 mins runtime without the car stalling for my second tank just now. What do I do? Would appreciate any advice.
 
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Keep breaking the car in. If you still see these issues after 6-7 tanks without any improvement, then maybe it's time to start some fault finding.

However, double check that both the HS and LS needles actually are in the correct position. Use the trim-sheet supplied by HPI, it specifies different settings compared to the manual, at least the original manual.
 
HarjS said:
I'm having a similar problem from the very first tank and have just ran my second tank. The problem is that I have to hold the throttle on the transmitter, while pulling the crank at the same time to start the car. However If I let go of the throttle it stalls. I then adjusted the idle screw clockwise right the way to end and now the car runs without stalling for about a minute . however at this max idle setting I'd expect to see the wheels spinning pretty fast but they don't move when I start the car and hold it off the ground(with the help of a friend) on the max idle setting. Lol. I also still have to hold the throttle and pull the crank at the same time to start the damn car every time! Is this normal? I haven't touched the HS or gear transmission as it says not to until your on then 3rd or 4th tank in the manual. The car still hasn't come out of 1st gear yet either but then I haven't caned it yet as I'm only still breaking in the engine. Saying that, I then got 20 mins runtime without the car stalling for my second tank just now. What do I do? Would appreciate any advice.
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Leave it at the addedumed settings until 4 or more tanks have been run, do not rush thru breakin you will pay more in the end than if you take your time and just let it breakin and be happy.....
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
Leave it at the addedumed settings until 4 or more tanks have been run, do not rush thru breakin you will pay more in the end than if you take your time and just let it breakin and be happy.....
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Damn it's 1am here guys and uve settled some nerves. I can sleep in peace. Thanks for the grateful advice.
 
F-Type said:
Step 2 – Testing Spark Plug Cap Insulation
1. Remove the spark plug from the spark plug cap.
2. Slowly pull the starter cord and observe the interior of the spark plug cap carefully

• If you see a spark arcing through the silicone boot to the metal shell of the cap, the Ignition System needs to be replaced
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Can someone explain this further. While testing my spark-plug, i can see spark both from the spark-plug and from the spark-plug cup. Does it mean that the ignition system is already faulty? Can it be repaired?
 
Hi today I tried to start my new used octane it fired up one time for like 2 seconds and won’t do nothing now spark plug wet with fuel and have spark at plug any help will be greatly thankful for hsn and lsn at factory settings also it’s like brand new got from people who found in storage unit newer chrome pipe piston looks like new in plug hole
 
Billsky said:
Move the CDI out of the box to under the front of roll cage and purchase one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor...-5B-FG-ZENOAH-CY-RCMK-Losi-Rovan/222974261325 I had all kinds of issues, bought the noted CARB installed and it runs with no issues after a bit of tuning. Definitely worth the 13 Bucks in time saving alone. The stock carb is just to sensitive, and in my opinion a POS. Hpi modified to much.
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I am going to get this carb is it different from stock carb????
 
Vmansavage said:
I am going to get this carb is it different from stock carb????
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The stock carb is WT 668B. It is pretty much the same carb. I have changed them on two octanes and they now run. Still am getting the overheating after a half a tank. It takes 20-30 tanks for that to stop. The key is patience and at least it will run when changed out. The link below gives great information:
 
Awsome I will def get this carb and give it a whirl what settings did you set the carb too there are three different factory setting I have seen two diff ones in the manual and then the updated cheat sheet from hpi
 
Vmansavage said:
Awsome I will def get this carb and give it a whirl what settings did you set the carb too there are three different factory setting I have seen two diff ones in the manual and then the updated cheat sheet from hpi
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I have HS 1- 1/4, LS 1-1/2 you will have to tinker for each individual engine to find the sweet spot. Make sure the plug is set between 0.3mm and 0.4mm <-- makes a huge difference and can cause the engine to run erratic if not correctly set. I have mine at 0.35mm
 
Billsky said:
I have HS 1- 1/4, LS 1-1/2 you will have to tinker for each individual engine to find the sweet spot. Make sure the plug is set between 0.3mm and 0.4mm <-- makes a huge difference and can cause the engine to run erratic if not correctly set. I have mine at 0.35mm
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I have another question sir did you set the new carb at base setting per the updated sheet or manual??? Thanks for all ur help buddy
 
I I'm from Italy, the engine of my octane stall as this video https://streamable.com/1jmiy
Spark it's new (NGK cm6) mix gasoline oil 4% (oil motul 800 2t), battery full charge and new.
How I do for resolve this problem? New cdi?
Attach one picture after video, the scree carb H 1 turn and L 1 and 7/12..
 

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Hi, thanks for the reply but sorry I don't understand what you mean by top end. The head of cilinder is clean, the piston ring have good compression...
when I accelerate /move trottle the engine stops immediately. a lot of oil comes out of the exhaust even if the ratio is right and screw H and L screw as factory set.
Do you think the cdi it's down?
 
ReVoX said:
Hi, thanks for the reply but sorry I don't understand what you mean by top end. The head of cilinder is clean, the piston ring have good compression...
when I accelerate /move trottle the engine stops immediately. a lot of oil comes out of the exhaust even if the ratio is right and screw H and L screw as factory set.
Do you think the cdi it's down?
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Sorry top end means top end of motor cylinder head and piston and rings have you tried setting unit up on stand with wheels of ground also I have read on this forum a lot on the octane one person had similar troubles and he had to shave a lil plastic off the Cdi button that spins around on the clutches or flywheel don’t know what to call it but if you check out some of the other chats on here there is a lot of helpful info good luck n don’t give up the octane can be a lil punk but once you get it figured out it’s awsome
 
Vmansavage said:
Sorry top end means top end of motor cylinder head and piston and rings have you tried setting unit up on stand with wheels of ground also I have read on this forum a lot on the octane one person had similar troubles and he had to shave a lil plastic off the Cdi button that spins around on the clutches or flywheel don’t know what to call it but if you check out some of the other chats on here there is a lot of helpful info good luck n don’t give up the octane can be a lil punk but once you get it figured out it’s awsome
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Hello and thanks for the reply, you mean flywheel pickups to spark? if it does not work i think it should not always work, unfortunately with the candle disassembled you can see and hear a spark, what I cannot understand is the intensity of the spark to understand if it is the broken CDI.
Otherwise what it could be, clutch and transmission I don't think because when it starts even with raised wheels it makes empty (similar to missed ignition) and turns off...if I immediately disassemble the candle is wet.
Unfortunately the only shop selling HPI has never sold / repaired octane, so I'll have to do it myself.
 
Hi, I have bought an Octane (Probably the first edition) with CDI from 2012 and a black exhaust pipe. The truck is very little used, but I do have the same problem. The engine starts as normal, but after a minute or 2 it just stalls. Then it is not possible to get it started. I have bought a new CDI (Dated 2014), and changed the sparkplug to a brand new. Same problem. I have replaced the ignition battery to a 2s LiPo 2000mA. I have opened the carburettor, and cleaned the metering side, and the pump side. I have opened the engine, and inspected the piston ring and the piston. It does look brand new inside. The piston ring is fine (At least not stuck). I have removed the airfilter and the fuel filter, just to test that it is not blocked. When the car starts and runs for a minute or 2, I have to wait 4-5 hours before I'm able to start it again. Then everything repeats itself. The HSN and LSN is set to updated recomendations. Any thoughts on what to suspect in the next troubleshooting step? Any tips appreciated. (I have read this thread more than once).
 
gtlegends said:
Hi, I have bought an Octane (Probably the first edition) with CDI from 2012 and a black exhaust pipe. The truck is very little used, but I do have the same problem. The engine starts as normal, but after a minute or 2 it just stalls. Then it is not possible to get it started. I have bought a new CDI (Dated 2014), and changed the sparkplug to a brand new. Same problem. I have replaced the ignition battery to a 2s LiPo 2000mA. I have opened the carburettor, and cleaned the metering side, and the pump side. I have opened the engine, and inspected the piston ring and the piston. It does look brand new inside. The piston ring is fine (At least not stuck). I have removed the airfilter and the fuel filter, just to test that it is not blocked. When the car starts and runs for a minute or 2, I have to wait 4-5 hours before I'm able to start it again. Then everything repeats itself. The HSN and LSN is set to updated recomendations. Any thoughts on what to suspect in the next troubleshooting step? Any tips appreciated. (I have read this thread more than once).
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The problem was found! The timing sensor was on the limit of reach from the magnet. So when the engine started to warm up, it may affected the distance between sensor and magnet slightly. Sanded the sensor bracket to get it closer to the magnet, and the motor is now running as it should. Took me 14 days troubleshooting to find this problem. I can now finally start tuning the engine 🙂
 
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