HPI Savage Octane starts then stalls

trev616

Member
Messages
37
My Octane will not stay running. I have returned needles to factory (LS 1 7/12 out and HS 1 full turn out), checked fuel mixture (25:1), Checked spark (I have spark and ignition system is at full charge with new 1600 Plazma batteries), No drive train issues. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb, same thing. I have been using Trufuel and emptying the tanks after every use, I pull the cord to make sure all the gas is out of the carb after each use although I have not done this with EVERY use. I am stumped. Maybe I just need a new carb. Any suggestions will be great
 

Jam Racing 1

Well-Known Member
HPISF Supporter
Messages
4,716
Well as some other members can attest to if you do not run the tank completely dry and run till it will not start any longer the fuel in the carbs tiny passages and parts can gum up and cause it to not run right.
Rebuilding these little carbs takes special tools and knowledge to get right and is best left alone, if you suspect the carb then call HPI and see if maybe they can help with getting another one..... never know maybe they will just send you one for free...

There have been many issues with the Octane since it has come out, read all the threads in here and possibly you can solve the issue....

Good Luck and please update so others may learn along with you....
 

Anders Jonsson

New Member
Messages
4
How many tanks of fuel have you used up? Less than 12-15 tanks the engine is very hard to tune and if it stops above 1/4-1/2 throttle try to close the choke about 20% and it should run more consistent. Make sure that the spark plug gap is 0.3-0.4mm.
HS at least 1 1/2 turn open, LS as you mentioned or open it a little more it should run wery rich at idle.
Now after 20+ tanks mine is running wery well and reacts much better on the needles.
I drove my Octane today in - 25C or -12F with no issues at all so there is hope, just be patient.
 

trev616

Member
Messages
37
I really do not know how many tanks I have run through it. It was very responsive the other night but now it doesn't matter what I do it simply will not run. I took it to a small engine repair shop and they said it was the carb acting up. I have a new carb coming soon. Headache after headache with this thing.
 

It's 1i0

New Member
Messages
4
Hey!! I'm having the same problem with my octane!! Just bought it 4 days ago and I've tried to start it but it starts then stall immediately. Any advice??? It's brand spankin new!!! It should start!!!!
 

Roberto

Active Member
Messages
58
ngk spark cm6 throws away the original spark is useless do a mix gasoline oil (1 liter of gasoline and oil 25cc) then please reset carb, by the book
 

It's 1i0

New Member
Messages
4
Actually it's the first tank of fuel! I have yet been able to start the engine.. It starts and stalls.. I do have white smoke when it does run for like 2 seconds. Everything is in factory setting. I've bought the ngk cm6 spark plug and will try it tomorrow. Hopefully that will solve the problem. Gets frustrating when you spend 800-900 bucks and the damn engine won't even start.
 

trev616

Member
Messages
37
As you can read from this thread your frustrations are just beginning. It sounds like yours may just be faulty from the factory. The Octane is a very poorly designed product and it is unfortunate that something like this was ever allowed to be sold with this many problems.
 

Anders Jonsson

New Member
Messages
4
If you have idleup on your radio, use it. Otherwise hold some throttle and use a stand so that the wheels clears the ground to make it easier when you start the engine. Adjust the plug gap (0.3-0.4mm). If you got a 2s LiPo that fits in the box use it on the ignition. Mix 4% oil as the manual states, it is not the oil that makes the engine stop.
I have ran mine for about 6l now and it runs wery well now despite the cold, usually it starts on the first pull.
 

trev616

Member
Messages
37
Cleaned the carb again. Ran it through boiling water and soap. I am hoping this works. If not I will put a new carb on it.
 

It's 1i0

New Member
Messages
4
Trev616 let me know how it turns out. I've tried the new ngk spark plug, reset the hs, ls and idle but it stills stalls out.
 

trev616

Member
Messages
37
Changed to a new carb and made sure needles were at factory settings.I think it came at the factory settings for the Baja. Motor still starts then stalls. The only other thing I could think of at this point is the ignition system is not working properly. Truck has hardly run since October. Trying to get HPI to take action about this thing takes weeks. I'm so fed up with HPI and this pointless truck. Never buying anything from them again.
 

trev616

Member
Messages
37
So my clutch bell falls apart due to no loctite on the screw holding it in or just being loose, yes I know that you need to tighten all screws before running the truck but this involves taking the whole engine out before I even run it, I feel like this is unacceptable and could have easily been taken care of from the factory, even the manual tells you to put loctite on it. My pull start locks up because the retaining nut that is supposed to keep the prawl on was not even installed, HPI's fault. Now I have this issue and have no idea what is going on. I'm sorry, I spent $900 for a truck that sits at my house due to things that were never taken care of from the factory. This has nothing to do with it being a "new product" but just bad manufacturing. So while i'm not exactly trying to "trash" HPI, I feel that my frustrations are completely warranted.
 

rcnut14

I give bad advice
Messages
1,229
Location
lancaster county, pa
u have every right to be angry. I would be too. I never had any bad experiances with hpi, so I recommend them. on the other hand, I have had many bad experiances with traxxas. some people never had any bad experiances with taxxas, so they don't understand either.
 

Jam Racing 1

Well-Known Member
HPISF Supporter
Messages
4,716
All New vehicles have issues, NO ONE IS EXEMPT from them happening........ although at this point I do feel HPI has rushed the Octane to sale and not thought out many issues which should have been thought of from the get go. remember these are assembled by some poor person in china and I am sure there is little oversight in those factorys, just get em out so they can get paid for the job......
 

It's 1i0

New Member
Messages
4
Update: I finally had some free time today to play around with the octane. my engine is still stalling on me but today when I got it to start I immediately pull on the trigger and it drove around for like 20 seconds but it eventually died. Then I tried it again and got it to go forward for a few seconds and I pulled on the brakes and held it. When I held on the brakes the engine didn't stall for 30 seconds. What could this be????
 

trev616

Member
Messages
37
This is the email with directions they sent me for sending in your engine:

I ask that you go through the following protocol to get that motor sent in.
First attach a copy or original proof of purchase to a sheet of paper
describing the issue that is occurring with the engine. Then please leave a
good email address for the techs to reach you at in regards to this matter as
well. Place them all in the box with the motor please mail said documents and
part(s) to the following address:

Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Dr, Suite #1
Champaign, IL 61822
 

kpm

New Member
Messages
3
[I have a similar situation with a brand new Savage Octane. I am new to R/C cars. My r/c experience is with airplanes and helicopters.
I unboxed and set up the Octane very carefully. I read the instructions and followed them exactly. I nursed the octane through the first 4-5 tanks of fuel. I had fun just breaking this monster truck in. Around the fifth tank I noticed that it was running rough and the throttle was not responsive. Eventually it would not stay running. It would start and then stop running about 3 seconds later.
TROUBLESHOOTING:
I checked the air filter
I made a fresh batch of 25:1 fuel
I charged batteries
Checked spark plug to ensure sparks from ignition

Still no luck.
I then started tinkering with the high and low end carb adjustments. I reset them per the factory specs. Still no luck!

After two days of many carb adjustments, I finally found a sweet spot to where the octane would stay running! however, the motor was running way to fast. Does this mean it was too lean on the low end??? I don't even think the idle stop screw was being effective in calming the engine down. I want to richen the low end, but I am scared that this thing will not start again if I touch it.

Sadly I had to stop my work for the evening. After just hearing this thing run again gives me hope. I've been working on this for 2 straight days for several hours.

I intend to mark my progress and make very tiny tiny adjustments to try and calm this motor down. I think my problem lies with my carb settings being out of whack. It was running this evening. It just needs to be slowed down a bit.
 

MarQ

Member
Messages
19
Location
Reno NV
[I have a similar situation with a brand new Savage Octane. I am new to R/C cars. My r/c experience is with airplanes and helicopters.
I unboxed and set up the Octane very carefully. I read the instructions and followed them exactly. I nursed the octane through the first 4-5 tanks of fuel. I had fun just breaking this monster truck in. Around the fifth tank I noticed that it was running rough and the throttle was not responsive. Eventually it would not stay running. It would start and then stop running about 3 seconds later.
TROUBLESHOOTING:
I checked the air filter
I made a fresh batch of 25:1 fuel
I charged batteries
Checked spark plug to ensure sparks from ignition

Still no luck.
I then started tinkering with the high and low end carb adjustments. I reset them per the factory specs. Still no luck!

After two days of many carb adjustments, I finally found a sweet spot to where the octane would stay running! however, the motor was running way to fast. Does this mean it was too lean on the low end??? I don't even think the idle stop screw was being effective in calming the engine down. I want to richen the low end, but I am scared that this thing will not start again if I touch it.

Sadly I had to stop my work for the evening. After just hearing this thing run again gives me hope. I've been working on this for 2 straight days for several hours.

I intend to mark my progress and make very tiny tiny adjustments to try and calm this motor down. I think my problem lies with my carb settings being out of whack. It was running this evening. It just needs to be slowed down a bit.
 

MarQ

Member
Messages
19
Location
Reno NV
My bad new here, Kpm I would mark the settings that are working for you so that you know where to adjust back to in case it doesn't want to run again . I marked mine with red nail polish and after you mark them adjust your idle but make sure that your idle adjustment on the controller or transmitter isn't to reduced or you'll be fighting the brakes as you try and accelerate . One thing to mention also is if you store it with fuel like I do give it a good shake to stir up the oil mix in the gas because I think from my experience the oil will separate some from the gas and the carb will suck up more oil at the start . I forgot to give it a shake and it started really rich almost like nitro when it leaves the oil stain on the ground.
 

kpm

New Member
Messages
3
Great advice and thanks a lot. I documented the needle settings like you recommended and began to troubleshoot. Now I have it running but it just idles way too high, When I adjust the idle screw until the wheels stop the engine stalls. If I keep throttle on it runs and runs. I am experiencing something similar like an earlier poster said. When I apply the brakes the motor still runs just like I do when giving it throttle. My issue now is finding that sweet spot at idle.

So let me ask. Do my adjustments now center around the low end adjustment, idle adjustment and throttle trim?
I took some video of my situation and hope to post it later for reference.

I've wanted to give up on this two days ago, but I can see the beauty in this challenge. I have been so immersed in this problem, I am beginning to really understand how this works. I believe them now that the tiniest turns on the adjustment screws can make a huge difference! lol This forum and youtube has helped tremendously!
 

Jam Racing 1

Well-Known Member
HPISF Supporter
Messages
4,716
My bad new here, Kpm I would mark the settings that are working for you so that you know where to adjust back to in case it doesn't want to run again . I marked mine with red nail polish and after you mark them adjust your idle but make sure that your idle adjustment on the controller or transmitter isn't to reduced or you'll be fighting the brakes as you try and accelerate . One thing to mention also is if you store it with fuel like I do give it a good shake to stir up the oil mix in the gas because I think from my experience the oil will separate some from the gas and the carb will suck up more oil at the start . I forgot to give it a shake and it started really rich almost like nitro when it leaves the oil stain on the ground.

The only thing I have a problem with this advice is leaving fuel in the tank, you should always drain or run it dry and run the engine until it will not run any more....
the reason is there are very tiny passages in these carburetors and when the fuel evaporates as it will always do the oil leftover will cause these tiny passages to be come clogged and cause all kinds of starting and running issues.....
Makin very tiny adjustments after breakin is what you should always do, a 1/16 turn can make a HUGE difference to performance, and it is for sure a balancing act between the low and high and idle settings to get things to work together in harmony.......
Good Luck and happy motoring.....
 

kpm

New Member
Messages
3
Thanks. I am learning this oh so much. It also requires a large dose of patience too.
 

MarQ

Member
Messages
19
Location
Reno NV
The only thing I have a problem with this advice is leaving fuel in the tank, you should always drain or run it dry and run the engine until it will not run any more....
the reason is there are very tiny passages in these carburetors and when the fuel evaporates as it will always do the oil leftover will cause these tiny passages to be come clogged and cause all kinds of starting and running issues.....
Makin very tiny adjustments after breakin is what you should always do, a 1/16 turn can make a HUGE difference to performance, and it is for sure a balancing act between the low and high and idle settings to get things to work together in harmony.......
Good Luck and happy motoring.....
I am going to take your advise on completely running the fuel out to avoid future problems because it does make sense . I stopped letting it run out of fuel early on because as I was babying it during break in when it would get to the last drops of fuel in the tank it would suck up air and then it would take of like a bat out of hell and I didn't think full speed revs on a new engine was healthy.
 
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