HPI Savage Octane starts then stalls

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Btw, below is an Ignition testing procedure, posted on another forum by one of HPI's own guys. I have tried it on my CDI up to step 3 where it says my CDI is working fine and no further testing is needed.

Have you guys who had issues with your CDI's tried it out, and what was the result on the units that you found to be faulty by replacing by a new one?

Ignition System Testing
Please use these testing procedures to determine if your Savage XL Octane Ignition System (also called a ‘CDI’) is faulty. Follow all the steps thoroughly to properly test your Ignition System.
You will need these supplies to perform an initial test on the ignition box:
• A fully charged receiver pack to plug into the Ignition System
• A new spark plug to fit the GT15C engine
• A thin screwdriver

You can perform all the steps of this testing at home without running the engine. Please perform these steps in a quiet area (so you can listen for the spark arcing) and where you can dim the lights (so you can watch for a spark).
Step 1 – Testing Ignition System
1. Remove the spark plug cap from the engine and insert a brand new spark plug into the spark plug cap.
2. Carefully observe the spark plug tip while slowly pulling the starter cord
3. You should see a spark between the spark plug element and the tip, or hear a snap/crack

• If you do see a spark or hear a snap/crack, proceed to Step 2
• If there is no visible spark or no snap/crack then you will need to test the Ignition System more thoroughly. Proceed to Step 4 for instructions on how to do this.

Step 2 – Testing Spark Plug Cap Insulation
1. Remove the spark plug from the spark plug cap.
2. Slowly pull the starter cord and observe the interior of the spark plug cap carefully

• If you see a spark arcing through the silicone boot to the metal shell of the cap, the Ignition System needs to be replaced
• If there is no visible spark but you hear a snap/crack, proceed to Step 3

Step 3 – Testing Spark Strength
1. Insert a small screwdriver into the spark plug cap, making sure it touches the central metal cap inside the clear silicone insulator. The screwdriver should not touch the outside of the spark plug cap.
2. Slowly pull the starter cord, you should see a spark between the screw driver to the metal cap

• If you hear a spark but do not see one in the spark plug cap, the Ignition System needs to be replaced
• If you see a spark between the screw driver and the metal cap, the Ignition System is working and no further testing is required.

Please follow the next set of testing procedures if you found that there was no visible spark or no snap/crack during Step 1 - Complete Ignition System Testing. Please note that some tests require removal of the engine from the car.
You will need these supplies to fully test the ignition box:
• A fully charged receiver pack to plug into the Ignition System
• A new spark plug to fit the GT15C engine
• A servo extension lead (with male and female ends). You will need the female end of the extension intact. Cut the opposite end off, then separate and strip the ends of the 3 wires
• A voltmeter or multimeter set to record Volts
• A magnet (a bar-style magnet is best but any will do)

Step 4 – Testing Ignition Box Power Output
1. Plug in the modified servo extension lead into the sensor connection of the ignition system
2. Remove the spark plug lead from the engine and install a new spark plug all of the way into the lead
3. Plug the fully charged receiver pack into the ignition system
4. Use the voltmeter to check the voltage on the red and black wires on the test lead

• If there is a voltage reading, proceed to Step 5.
• If there is no voltage, the Ignition System needs to be replaced

Step 5: Testing Ignition Box Function
1. Hold the black and white wires on the test lead, and tap the exposed part of the wires together
2. As you separate the wires, watch the end if the new spark plug carefully

• If you see a spark or hear a snap/crack, proceed to Step 6
• If there is no visible spark or no snap/crack, the Ignition System needs to be replaced

Step 6 – Testing Timing Sensor Function
1. Remove the test lead from the ignition box
2. Remove the engine from the car
3. Remove the Timing Sensor from the engine and connect it to the Ignition Box
4. To simulate flywheel magnet operation, bring the south pole of a magnet towards the underside of sensor tip until contact is almost made.

• If you see a spark or hear a snap/crack, proceed to Step 7
• If there is no visible spark or no snap/crack, the Timing Sensor needs to be replaced

Important - When reinstalling the Timing Sensor onto the engine, use the information in the manual to position it correctly. The position is very important as it determines the spark timing.

Step 7 – Testing Flywheel Magnet
If you have reached this step, the only remaining component of the Ignition System that can be faulty is the Flywheel or Flywheel Magnet. Possible faults are:
1. Magnet missing from flywheel
2. Damaged or weak magnet
3. Magnet too far away from Timing sensor to be detected.
• Replace the Flywheel and re-perform Step 1 to check that the Ignition System is now fully working.
 
I am curious about it I would like to fix my rig and make it run properly. Where did you get the cd I from what store and part number of the stuff I need. Thanks pal
Hpi really drop the ball I am shocked by this I had savages for years and this one is crap from day one thanks hpi your the best truck is great is just won't run that's all but has potential that's for sure. Caio
 
Viperking said:
Hello Alexander what cdi did you use part # and brand and what else did you need to make it work.
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I did all what you could imagine 🙁 Ever I try to set all what is setting. But when I change CDI - the engine starts and I only need to set a carburetor at factory default setting. I've bought an original from eBay. And also I'm waiting one Chinese Rcexl for reserve now. $47 and I hope I'll be working much longer.
 
Thanks buddy but will that one work correctly there was someone who did this but I am not sure what cdi they used and it didn't work for them. But I hope you have good results and I will do the same thing if it works getting ready to shove this $ 890.00 paper weight right up hpi's rear-end stick it where the sun don't shine ********. Thanks hpi for your top notch ****** *** customer service skills suck surprise half of those worthless idiots brain dead jerks even have a job that's why the USA is in **** shape because of people like this prime example I know cry me a river. Oh well!!!
 
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So, having suspected the CDI is not working properly, even though it passes the HPI CDI test with flying colors, I did some measurements with my oscilloscope, and they more or less confirms my suspicions. Below are two photos of it, one when measuring on the octane and one measuring on my lawn mower. The difference is huge and indicates that the octane CDi is very weak not giving much energy in the sparks. I have a new CDI on order, non-HPI, of course, as my local dealer refused to honor any warranty. If the car runs fine with the new CDI, and they still refuse to honor the warranty, then this was the first and last HPI product I will ever buy, that's for sure.

20150630_210516-1.webp 20150630_210154-1.webp
 
The CDI fixed my stalling issues. I was always confused because the ignition system always generated a spark but process of elimination made me change the CDI. Once I put the new CDI in the truck I noticed that it generated a spark about twice as bright as before. It almost seems like the other CDI was working on about half the voltage as the other one. I sent this in for warranty and they said the truck was working fine. It wasn't. Long story short they didn't honor the defective CDI for me and lied to me about it. I think I'm done with the Octane and most likely HPI. Don't want to be a downer here this whole thing has been a horrible experience.
 
The fact that the Octane has some issues, is one thing, I can live with that. The fact that HPI is putting their head in the sand, not honouring warranty and consumer laws and lying their customers straight to their faces about it is totally unacceptable!
 
New member here and been reading all the grief and suffering of all people's octanes. I feel bad for everyone because the support I get with my local hobby shop is top notch and is the only reason I bought this truck to break the myth of fail for this model.

My very first octane I bought from the store most likely had a dead cdi. But I already knew it because that was the store's original truck from release date lol. So just to note I did initially take it home first, tightened screws, made the fuel mix and tried to start it on my own once. But shortly after 5 pulls I got wiser and told the store to try and start it.

Long story short, hpi replaced the truck no questions ask to the shop. That's was my aim from the beginning, to get the most updated truck straight from hpi. All new chrome header, not the black one they had before and I believe my cdi is dated "2014" 'shrug' I'll take it!

Ten tanks in running factory needle settings and my real truck has been a beast. I've tuned my hsn a tad and it's a mother trucker. I have more breaking in to do as I feel my engine is probably going to be a 20 tank break in one. But it's popping wheelies and starting to shift so it's on the path to glorious savaging. Starts right up just like my weed whacker on the 2nd pull.🙂

I wanted to post something positive atleast for those lurking out there.
 
F-Type said:
What store is that? I'll take mine there too and we see what happens!
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Sheldons hobbies in san jo, ca. They seem to flip 20-30+ rc kits a week and do tons a business with hpi, so the guys there told me if they could not get original to work, they will make hpi send them a new one for my case.
 
rcHero11 said:
New member here and been reading all the grief and suffering of all people's octanes. I feel bad for everyone because the support I get with my local hobby shop is top notch and is the only reason I bought this truck to break the myth of fail for this model.

My very first octane I bought from the store most likely had a dead cdi. But I already knew it because that was the store's original truck from release date lol. So just to note I did initially take it home first, tightened screws, made the fuel mix and tried to start it on my own once. But shortly after 5 pulls I got wiser and told the store to try and start it.

Long story short, hpi replaced the truck no questions ask to the shop. That's was my aim from the beginning, to get the most updated truck straight from hpi. All new chrome header, not the black one they had before and I believe my cdi is dated "2014" 'shrug' I'll take it!

Ten tanks in running factory needle settings and my real truck has been a beast. I've tuned my hsn a tad and it's a mother trucker. I have more breaking in to do as I feel my engine is probably going to be a 20 tank break in one. But it's popping wheelies and starting to shift so it's on the path to glorious savaging. Starts right up just like my weed whacker on the 2nd pull.🙂

I wanted to post something positive atleast for those lurking out there.
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Thanks for posting this. Hopefully this means that something is going on at HPI to take care of these issues. Perhaps this is a light in the darkness of failures currently plaguing the Octane.
 
My Octane also came with the polished "chrome look" header and I haven't had any of the issues of not starting or stalling. At 18 tanks in I changed the spark plug because I wanted to use a fresh one and not because it needed it. Perhaps there is a run of these Octanes that were updated? Here is a pic of my cdi.image.webp
 
Just got back putting another 2 tank threw with my first "real" set of adjustments on the hsn and transmission. It all went well and I was pleased with the progress I made so far. Definitely got my 2nd and 3rd gears engaging sooner for my needs but I still need to adjust 2nd gear more sooner and third gear is about right with a 1/16th turn that I did. Not a big deal and I have zero stalls from today's runs in the nice sunny California weather.

I do agree if you manage to get yourself an updated truck from hpi, you will be a happy camper. The older ones just need work and a lot of tlc imo.
 
I got a new CDI today that I tested. It sure has a stronger spark, but to my surprise, the car shows exactly the same behaviour. I have double and tripple checked the CDI-sensor, and there doesn't seem to be any problems there. So, at this point, it seems I have to rule out electrical problems.

I guess the next step will be to tear the carburetor into bits and pieces and put it back together again. To make sure there are no issues with or "foreign objects" in it.

If anything, I would say the car is getting too much fuel.

I tried today to turn the low speed needle in half a turn, from stock setting, the engine started and ran at a high rpm, increasing rpm, for a few seconds, before it suddenly stopped.
 
I want to document a bit here, where my truck started from factory settings on first tank till I had ten tanks. Initially, my hsn was at a straight vertical point (actually a full one turn and a "1/4" turn from close). I've read everywhere and seen on youtube its a one turn out, but mine was not like that and it ran rich with smoke but the break in went flawlessly so far as it was. Today, as the picture shows now I've only touched hsn leaning it out and its definitely has more speed/pop than before and after doing my transmission adjustments, still plenty of smoke but not as much as it was before. I've brushed off some sludge on the plug too and its getting reliable 4 pull starts.


I've ran out of time today to keep tuning but I'll post my cdi info., it does not say 2014 like I thought it would but my hobby store guys say, "Its definitely not a 2012 cdi, but an updated to 2014 cdi," no sticker to show for it is all.


My other rc toys crying to be played with.....

Again, everyone's engine is different, but maybe use mines as some reference as it's going strong.
 
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Hello, I'm new to the forum, I want to share my experience with the savage octane, It might be useful, the story begins when I bought it week ago, I follow every step in the instruction manual, and I recharged the batteries, I add the oil with regular fuel, and fired up the savage, the initial start was fine but too hight RPM, I have to unscrew the Idle needle all the way up and let the throttle flap to move freely, which was odd to me! why would make the idle screw if this is the case. Anyway I touch the trigger on the transmitter to move forward and it was so sensitive! and as soon as I increase the RPM the engine stalled !!! tried to fire it again, and the same happened every time.
So I surfed the net for a solution, Some say change the spark plug and some clean the Carb, but its brand new!!!
Next day trail, did the same thing but this time with premium fuel and and fresh NKG spark plug, the same thing again and again, this time I played with the H needle and move it to rich, But I did not touch the L needle because its mention never touch that thing in the manual.
So I was very careful in moving the H Needle, but it was the same, High RPM and stall after increasing the throttle, so at this point I gave up and ordered new ignition and Carburetor from ebay(I did not take it to the shop).
Third day and while awaiting for the parts to arrive in a week time, I decided to give it ago again, but this time and because ordered for a new Carburetor, I moved the L setting needle, and here where the surprise comes, When I reset the needle, It was at 1 1/4 and not 1 7/12, and when I moved it to the correct setting, guess what!!! the idle was too low which had to correct the idle screw and the engine run and a swiss watch with no problems at all throttle ranges.
 
Octane now wants to die when I give it full throttle. Acts lean then cuts out no matter how rich I make it. Changed the spark plug and no intake impedance. If i pull the throttle slowly it will accelerate but if I give it a quick full throttle again acts lean and cuts out. Needles richer than factory settings. I want to sell this thing and I want it to run right for a potential buyer. So tired of this truck.
 
trev616 said:
Octane now wants to die when I give it full throttle. Acts lean then cuts out no matter how rich I make it. Changed the spark plug and no intake impedance. If i pull the throttle slowly it will accelerate but if I give it a quick full throttle again acts lean and cuts out. Needles richer than factory settings. I want to sell this thing and I want it to run right for a potential buyer. So tired of this truck.
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Same exact symptoms here I sent my truck to hpi they replace the cylinder sleeve and the piston and the air filter assembly sent it back to me had to rebreak in the engine only to find out that it's still doing the same thing so I replaced the carburetorand it was still doing the same thing, then replace the gas tank and is still doing the same thing sent it back to hpi and now waiting to see what happens. I wish there was an octane specialist!
 
trev616 said:
Octane now wants to die when I give it full throttle. Acts lean then cuts out no matter how rich I make it. Changed the spark plug and no intake impedance. If i pull the throttle slowly it will accelerate but if I give it a quick full throttle again acts lean and cuts out. Needles richer than factory settings. I want to sell this thing and I want it to run right for a potential buyer. So tired of this truck.
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Have you ever replaced your CDI?
 
For both of you guys, try to change the type of fuel, regular to premium or the other way round, and try to use synthetic Oil, I use mobile 1( 2 stroke synthetic racing oil) and the engine running very smooth with low smoke, although I set it to the rich side, its expensive but Its worth to try.
 
ThumViper said:
For both of you guys, try to change the type of fuel, regular to premium or the other way round, and try to use synthetic Oil, I use mobile 1( 2 stroke synthetic racing oil) and the engine running very smooth with low smoke, although I set it to the rich side, its expensive but Its worth to try.
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Running premium non-oxy gas with AMSOIL Saber full synthetic oil so not the issue, unfortunately.
 
mnsportsguy1978 said:
Running premium non-oxy gas with AMSOIL Saber full synthetic oil so not the issue, unfortunately.
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, yeah, then this is a problem for sure, If you like the truck I would go with new engine for $200 and forget about replacing engine parts everytime. its realy up to you.
 
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