FLM/Mugen/CEN Savage Build

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Ahhhh...Finally got 'er done...

STEP 8: Final Assembly

I finally got myself another motor...SDMorris' F4.6, about a gallon old. The money saved will go for Big Bores when they come out. Besides, I'd like to be a better driver before I make this thing silly fast!

Here's the underside, right after tightening down the motor. This gives a good view of how the servo harnesses have been routed out of the way of moving parts.
flm058ha2.jpg


Now to cover it up with the center skidplate...it'll almost be a shame to scrape this up.
flm059qc2.jpg


Back up top, I used the Mugen fuel filter and mount I got with the tank, and mounted it to the hole in the rollbar. That plus the fuel line clips should keep everything secure.
flm060pg4.jpg

flm061gl4.jpg


I've been waiting to show off the shell, and now is the time...Behold the Pro-Line Silverado Crew Cab, LST/MGT sized...not a bad fit at all
flm063lc7.jpg

flm066va9.jpg

flm064dm0.jpg

flm065ci0.jpg


I now have the MT I always wanted...w00t!

I'll have a few more pics once my Zombies arrive and I put them on Maximizers, that should be any day. Then I'll beat this Savage like a rented mule once I re-tune.

Enjoy and please let me know if any of you have further questions.

-Greg
 
Thanks, xtremsavage! I'm going to buy some 30% tomorrow and run it around a bit if the weather holds...:Xfingers:
 
Just a quick update...

I took the truck out front for a shakedown run and everything seems cool...LOL, I only lost one screw. :duh: Since it was in the street, I used my stock GT2 tires (no offset rims).

The handling was noticeably better, although there was still a fair amount of body roll (black springs, 4 preload spacers removed, 25w oil). I actually rolled it once without the body on, and was pleased to find out that the body mounts and the rollbar was enough to keep the engine head off the ground. Bonus!

To further help the handling out, I put 3/8" of fuel tubing inside the shocks a few days later, hoping to keep the inside tires planted better in turns. The ground clearance still looks fine...

I finally got to BASH it last weekend. I went to my buddy's place where he has 2 acres out back, and a stack of chain-link fence-poles about 2 feet high. :devil-smiley-007: I ran it with the offset wheels and Zombies, and the handling was a whole different ball-park then stock. The Zombies gripped so well in his field that it was still possible to roll, but I really had to try. The truck stayed nice and flat through the corners, and still had plenty of suspension travel for the bumpy ground. The extended WB and lower engine also made it much more stable. I did a bunch of jumps off of the stack of pipes, the landings were great when I didn't land on the lid, LOL. I had fun for a little while, but high temps (traced to a leaky bearing) ended the afternoon.

The aftermath-Overall everything was good except for a couple of issues...

First of all, I'm an idiot. I gave enough clearance on the body for the head, but forgot what would happen if the truck landed upside down...
FLMFirstBash002.jpg


LMAO...I have since trimmed the rear window up past the bent Lexan. It still looks fine, I guess. =/

The only damage I found was a rear bumper screw had pulled out...My fault, it was too short. Also remedied since then.
FLMFirstBash004.jpg


Overall, I'm really happy with this setup. I may even be brave enough to race this rig just for fun later this year. There will be a couple of upgrades this spring, I'll update this as $$$ allows.
 
Glad to hear you're pleased with the outcome. Makes me more confident in going on with my own build, which should start soon! Post up some action pics when you get the chance!
 
The body is fine. Just cut that part of the window out and say its for better air flow.
 
Awesome work Judge. I was looking for a way to mount the steering servo and jcam lead me to your thread. Now I know what I need to do, order more parts!
 
Wow Judge just plain excellent! I to was on RC bashers trying to find as much info as possible to do my mid tank but when I seen your play by play this should be put in as a manual on EBAY!! I'm going your route except I'm keeping my CF TVP's. One thing well two, first I have a reverse mod on the savage do u think I could mount my third servo somewhere? and at RCBasher.com Oslo "made steering servo brackets from L shape aluminum, trimmed about 3/4'' from the length of the CEN box for proper fitment" what does that mean? or look like? did u do that at all? Again excellent job you gave me some courage to give it ago Cheers!!:cheers:
 
Wow, thanks for the compliment Piper!

As far as another servo for reverse, if you were to mount the steering servo on the TVP instead of under the servo plate, another servo could fit on the other side. I simply used the FLM servo mounts and drilled holes in the servo plate. No trimming necessary!
 
Thanks Judge. I basically followed your thread for my mid tank build. Only thing i did differently was the steering servo. Other thing I'm trying to figure out is if i can find a smaller receiver box so i don't have to remove it to pull the top off the tranny.
 
xsavage3148 said:
Thanks Judge. I basically followed your thread for my mid tank build. Only thing i did differently was the steering servo. Other thing I'm trying to figure out is if i can find a smaller receiver box so i don't have to remove it to pull the top off the tranny.
Click to expand...

If you look at oslo's build on rcbasher.com, (again, the inspiration for mine), he shortened the entire CEN box, lid and all...it clears the tranny fine.
amidtank21.jpg

Being that I have only pulled the top of the trans off once, and that was just for fun, I'm not too concerned about quick access for it.
 
I saw his build. my only concern with shortening the whole thing is the lid getting flimsy. I haven't had a chance to tune everything yet and my motor is being ported and polished so once that is done and everything is tuned i guess its not big deal to take the box out if i have too.
 
You will be concerned about it when you strip a spur gear and want to get back out bashing/racing again as quickly as possible.
 
Hasn't bothered me a bit...it's not like it's hard to pull the motor. I re-set the lash every time I replace a spur anyway, all my years with auto repair made me funny like that I guess. I never pulled the top off to change one when it was stock.
Besides, even if I wanted to, I wouldn't take the trans apart unless the truck was clean...no reason to get dirt inside the case.
I'm sure my thinking might be different if I was racing this truck every weekend, although at that point I'd get a steel spur gear.

Either way, no worries oregonmud...this is just the way I chose to do things. Just like anything else, it's all about priorities, and I chose mine accordingly. :beer:
 
Well i mangled my cen box trying to shorten the whole thing. since i started out with it that way it was in your pics it got too flimsy when i tried to shorten the whole thing. if i would have shortened it from the start i think i would have been ok. i may look into fitting the rpm box and some sort of battery box in there. other than that my truck is back together and waiting for the ported motor to come back.
 
MotoPsycho said:
The ones Judge used are Great Planes type clevis. Clicky here. They make them in a 4-40 thread, as well as a 2-56 thread. I believe I used the 4-40, as it is a bigger rod size.

Use loc-tite, and use the fuel tubing retainer- it will keep you from having the clevis ever come apart.
Click to expand...

LOL, that's what I used on the throttle/brake linkage(the 2-56 size), although I used CA glue on the threads. In fact, here are the exact ones I used: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK072&P=7

On the steering linkage, I used Dubro #2321 HD 3mm ball links, along with a 3mm turnbuckle from an AE NTC3, #1713.
 
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