FLM/Mugen/CEN Savage Build

[THE JUDGE]

This is the beginning of a plan I've had for a while now, an FLM LCG extended chassis, and a Mugen MBX5T tank and a CEN radio box. Since my camera has lots of room on its memory card, I thought I'd share my project with y'all. Stay tuned for the CEN Rx box mod below, it was the hardest part so far.

STEP 1: The Savage, The Parts, Teardown & Comparison

The mailman showed up with the last of the parts Monday afternoon (much to my delight). Here's what we have:

From SMF Store (Thanks again Bruce!):
-FLM 45100 Ext. LCG TVPs
-FLM 45110 Skid Plate
-FLM 45700 Engine Mount Plate
-FLM 45500 Servo Plate Kit
-FLM 48000 Steering Link (why not, only $7)
-FLM 46000 Servo Mount (x2)
-FLM 47500 Cross Bar For Skidplates (x2, DON'T get these, included w/TVPs)
-FLM 47000 Cross Bar For Engine Plate (x2)

From eHobbies:
-CEN FF007 Radio Box

From Ebay (too good a deal to pass up):
-Mugen MBX5T Fuel tank, mounts, filter, hardware

From Tower (had HUGE discount code):
-Pro-Line 3230-00 '07 Silverado Crew Cab body

...And here it all is, besides the body:

Here's the Savage, freshly cleaned after its last hard weekend with the stock setup:

And we're off!
I have no idea why some people think Savages are hard to work on. Five minutes with a #2 Phillips and a few allen drivers later, we're all torn down.

Now we can really take a look at how much muscle the new TVPs have.
New TVP next to Savage X TVP:

The FLM TVP laid over the stock one, with the front holes lined up. Here you can really see how much lower the trans and engine mount holes are, as well as the rear extension.

I weighed both sets of TVPs...just because. The FLMs weigh less than 4oz. more than the stockers. Well, they are almost twice as thick, not to mention 40mm longer.

Here's the FLM dog-bone vs. the stocker...Longer, yes, but also a lot thicker.

 

[THE JUDGE]

STEP 2: Basic Assembly/Mock-Up

Now we can start making a re-born Savage. First and foremost, I am not tightening any screws fully until everything is together...I find that helps greatly in lining up all the screw holes. At the end, I will slowly tighten all the fasteners, and THEN I will remove, Loctite and replace one screw at a time.

That said, first I attached the right TVP to the front and rear ends with one screw each. Next was mating the engine plate to the trans...Truly a thing of beauty.

Note: Read THIS...an important thing to do, or at least check!

From there, I attached the trans/engine plate to the TVP along with the driveshafts. I'm kind of proud that I actually remembered the driveshafts on the first try.

Just for comparo purposes, I also have a shot of how the drivetrain looked at this point when stock...notice the change in driveshaft angles.

The servo plate is next. It's self-explanatory, the pics tell all.
Oh yeah, you can see the steering link too. What can I say about it? It's an aluminum drag link :dunno:

Alright...I can finally see for myself how well the CEN box fits in the TVPs, which aren't extended in the front like the IRCs.

RUH ROH...

 

[THE JUDGE]

STEP 3: CEN Box Modification

Hmmm...how to fit the box? I really like the looks of this box, it's the perfect width and everything. I saw where someone cut and sectioned the whole thing by 18mm, but I don't like the idea of chopping the entire thing and possibly seriously weakening it. So I did some careful thinking/measuring/eyeballing/staring at the wall, and did this:

I cut most of the front off of the bottom half, leaving the lip intact, and then took out another section right behind it...

I then trimmed & smoothed the cut surfaces, glued the front back on, and filled the rest with a piece of scrap plastic. There's enough Zap-A-Gap inside and behind the seams that I doubt it'll ever come apart, or leak for that matter.

NOW does it fit?

Oh baby!

That's all I got for now. Tomorrow, I'll work on mounting the box as well as the Mugen tank on the servo plate. More pics coming, get ready! :jamout:

 

[Pineapple]

One word- AWESOME!!!!
Can't wait for next part!
Tried to give rep but it wont let me give to you again so soon so gift instead!
I hope other members give you rep- great pics and build/thread.
Dave

 

[k0m0d067]

absolutely amazing solution to the radio box not fitting!!! VERY well done!!!

 

[THE JUDGE]

^^^ Thanks a lot guys, I really appreciate it. I am in no way a craftsman...or a photographer...or a storyteller...but I still try.

The more I looked at that box, the clearer it became that if I didn't want to cut the lid or the truck, there was only one way to go. Sometimes it helps to be too stubborn to give up...I wanted that box in there one way or the other!

 

[SDMorris]

Dude, and you were jealous! GREAT job dude, looks absoulutely killer. I am going to do the CEN box modification, maybe when I do you can give me the measurments for how you cut? Regardless, your doing great man!

 

[oregonmud]

Looks realy nice. Thats a clean looking setup you have going on. Keep up the good work.

 

[X]

Thats looks great. It really lights a fire under me to do something similiar.

 

[Shaun]

wow great start buddy!! and very well explained every step!! if it will let me i'll shoot you some reps for the effort,,, and great pics of the project by the way!!!:resp:

 

[whipnet]

Excellent walk-through.

Thanks for the details.

*

 

[THE JUDGE]

Thanks again guys.

Here are a couple more detail shots of the Rx box. I don't have any actual dimensions, but who cares? As long as the box fits and looks OK, that's what matters.

As you can see from the bottom, I cut off the front right up to the mounting post (which I then removed to lower the box).

Inside view (lots of messy CA)

I'll be back with more...Imageshack is having some "trouble"

-Greg

 

[WildmansSavX]

Lookin good. Maybe in about 20 years mine will start lookin like that lol.

 

[-SaVaGe X-]

its lookin really good there gto!! thats almost the same mid tank set up that i was going to do. keep us posted!

 

[]-[0pa]0ng]

Awesome write up great pics very detailed. Looking forward to seeing the final product.


Savage X - Gotta love your sig bud, lol

 

[THE JUDGE]

I'm back...Here's what I got done this morning.

STEP 4: Mounting Radio Box and Fuel Tank

After a little eyeball measuring, I drilled four mounting holes in the bottom of the radio box, making sure there wouldn't be open space below on the servo plate.

I placed the box back on the servo tray to use as a template. I used a razor-blade wrapper as a spacer, to keep it a hair away from the transmission.

I then started the four holes, and removed the plate to finish drilling.

While the servo plate was off again, I measured out the holes for the fuel tank mount. I was able to simply open up an existing tapped hole at the rear, but at the front I had to go as close to the edge as I was comfortable. If the servo plate was just a few mm longer, the mounts would be absolutely vertical, but what can you do. You'll see what I mean in a bit. Here's the mounts on the plate:

Here's the inside of the box, as bolted to the servo plate.

...And here's how the tank and box sit together on the plate:
(See the nuts under the box? They're my spare RC18T wheel nuts!)

Time to mock up the assembly between the TVPs.
If you look closely below, you can see how the fuel tank mounting posts aren't both perfectly vertical...But they're strong Mugen plastic, so I don't see it as a potential problem down the road.

And finally, some shots of both pieces mounted on the plate, between both TVPs:

Next step will be installing the electronics in the CEN box, and setting up the throttle/brake linkage. There will be a bit of a lull after that...My steering servo crapped the bed completely, and the F4.6 now has zero pinch, a result of nitro n00biness, I suspect.

BTW, let me know if this is just too many pics...I can scale back if you want.
-Greg

 

[Pineapple]

Never too many pics in this thread IMO.
Great install on tank and box-keep it up!

Dave

 

[SDMorris]

Your on a roll buddy. Keep up the good work!

 

[THE JUDGE]

I'm baaaack...

Being that I still have no steering servo, I cannot set up all the wiring yet. So I switched steps.

STEP 5:Throttle and Brake Linkage

After a little more head-scratching and eyeballing, I came up with a nifty setup. I took the throttle mix arm bracket and flipped it around, to keep everything more tucked in. You can see that I had to make a very short link to the carb, but it has full travel. I then re-bent the clevis rods from my previous setup along with the brake lever to make everything line up.

If you look closely at the first pic, you can see that I had to use two washers between the throttle mix arm bracket and the TVP, to get just the right distance to the motor for full travel without binding. You can also see that I shaved off the little nub opposite the screw hole, so the brake linkage wouldn't rub on it. I assume others have done this before, but I haven't seen it. I really liked how it turned out...

This is probably a stopping point for me, due to lack of (functioning) parts and $$$. Hopefully my last tax return ever will show up next week, and I can buy a GOOD steering servo and a new motor...

Suggestions anyone? I'm thinking an LRP for the motor, and an Ace DS1015 or one of the nice JR servos, something up to around $100 or so.

-Greg

 

[SDMorris]

Looks great man, you took some time on that throttle linkage! The LRP and Ace servo should be a fine combination also.

 

[XXX]

I like that box! Pretty cool mod. Cant wait to see the rest.

 

[THE JUDGE]

OK, more parts got here last week, and I got some more done this past weekend...

STEP 6: Steering Servo Installation

Being that I needed a steering servo, and that it was also tax refund time, I wanted to get arguably the best servo out there, and I did...an Ace DS1015.
I found one locally for $95, so I snapped it up.

I sure felt like I got my money's worth just looking at the package...the box it came in is worth more than some of the servos I have laying around, LOL.

On to installation...
I'm not sure what the deal is, but I was unable to mount my steering servo on the TVP where it's obviously intended to. The servo just sits too high there IMO and doesn't give enough clearance on top for any hardware to bolt to the servo arm. After looking at oslo's Savage pics on rcbasher.com (the true inspiration for this whole project), I somewhat followed his lead.

I still used the FLM servo mounts, but I drilled 2 more holes in the servo plate to put the servo where I wanted it...

Due to the different location and angle of the servo, I had to cobble together a new steering link to the servo arm. I wandered around the LHS in Boulder for a bit, and came up with a pair of Dubro HD 3mm ball links (#2321) and a titanium turnbuckle kit for an AE NTC3 (#1713). I spent too much on this since the turnbuckles were $22, but I got some different lengths in the package to work with, and hey...blue titanuim!

Here's the bird's-eye view of the steering servo mounted up. From here, you can see where I drilled the extra holes. You can also see that the steering link has a bit of an angle to it, but it's no problem for the ball links. I tried to have the ball link sit under the servo arm, but it limited the travel. Also, note the servo extension harness (the orange/brown/red) from the throttle servo going over to where it'll enter the Rx box.

This shot from below gives you a good view of how the steering link attaches to the servo arm. You can also see the servo extension snaking under the servo plate, then back up. (I actually managed to route all my servo wires safely without zipties, believe it or not!)

...And finally, as seen through the right TVP...

 

[MTBikerTim]

If you mount the servo tabs below the FLM servo mounts the servo should fit on the TVP. That's how mine is mounted. The way yours is mounted looks like it will work perfectly though. Nice work on moding that box too.

 

[oregonmud]

It would look cleaner that way MTB thats for sure. But it looks like it will work fine. That is a beautiful servo BTW. (I'm jellous)

 

[whipnet]

That's a sweet looking servo. What are the specs on it?

*

 

[SDMorris]

:jamout: Nice!

 

[THE JUDGE]

If you mount the servo tabs below the FLM servo mounts the servo should fit on the TVP. That's how mine is mounted. The way yours is mounted looks like it will work perfectly though. Nice work on moding that box too.

You know what Tim, that was going to be my plan the whole time. My mock-up servo seemed to fit there okay. I tried with this one and the bottom of the servo hit the skidplate. :dunno: This method seems just fine, and it's also a little better protected where it's at.

Here's the servo specs:
Torque (Kg-cm) / (oz.-in.) @ 6V: 14.5 / 201.4
Speed (sec / 60°) @ 6V: 0.108

Gear Type: All Metal
Bearing: Coreless
Dimensions (mm): 41.8 x 20.6 x 39.6

Weight (g/oz): 66 / 2.328

Check out that speed...I tested the steering out once everything was hooked up, and it's so fast, it's almost like my hand is on the truck's front wheels. From what I've read, this servo will easily turn just about any tires anywhere, regardless of its torque rating. I plan on finding this out for myself...:evilrocker:

 

[THE JUDGE]

We're getting close now...

STEP 7: Final Radio Gear Install

Since the CEN box has already been fitted to the chassis, the rest was pretty easy. I drilled a hole in the lid, and screwed in the antenna post supplied with the servo plate.

As is often done, I then got an Ernst charge receptacle to fit behind the switch in the lid. Following the instructions, I cut/drilled the plastic to fit the receptacle. This only took a few minutes with a Dremel and drill.

Now this is a radio box. I love the rubber boot covering the charge plug-just like the ol' HPI box. Notice how I plugged the other antenna hole with a 4mm screw. I tried it and it threaded in snugly, so I left it there. What the hey...

Now to put it in the chassis and stuff it with electronics...Although you can't see it here, I opted to open up the mounting holes in the servo plate and tap them for 4mm screws, so I didn't have to mess with nuts underneath.

As you can see, a hump pack fits easily, and there's plenty of room to surround my reciever with foam tape. My servo wires slipped right into the two notches molded into the box.

Here we go, last pic for now...

As soon as my motor shows up this week (another F4.6) I'll run the fuel lines and finish 'er up. I already have a body done, and new wheels and tires are in the mail.

 

[SDMorris]

I'm hopefully mailing it out tomorrow, at the very latest the day after. LOOKS GREAT! A+

 

[MotoPsycho]

HOLY BUH JEE-ZEUS!!!
How'd I miss this rockin' thread?
Rep'd ya up buddy!​