Dad's dedication to Joseph Paul "Angel"

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joe out of curiosity how much does a complete kit set you back?
 
a lot of money on bearings but definitely will be worth it...
I'm considering doing the hell fire diff mod so you use 2 larger bearings on both sides. Only think preventing me from doing it, is the number of shims needed inside the diff case holding the bevel gears. I just don't like the idea of that.

Considering putting the ofna 8spider diffs in the front and rear if i can make them work. But not sure the axles will house the SHD Dog bones
 
I wouldn't say best but it can be rated at the top. Thanks and I believe there are many in the forum ahead of mine. I have seen some builds that never get updated but have been discussed in the shout of additional upgrades.
 
NEW FWD DOG BONE 8x78mm

After months of hard bashing and some racing. I found my foward drive dogbone pin has taken a beating. I go to the LHS to buy a new one and notice it looks different. I compaired the dogbones and find out that HPI Japan :thinking: made it better. Not sure of other HPI's have got this part avaliable. This maybe out for sometime but new to me.

The picture shows the new dogbone being thicker near ball points.
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HPI USA
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/86057/

HPI EUROPE
http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=86057

HPI JAPAN
http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=jp&partNo=86057

HPI CHINA
http://www.hpiracing.net.cn/en/products.asp?id=367

:werd: BUT GOOD
 
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Ok so what is this for? I had bought the two because i did not want to drive 4 hours total and get the wrong one.
 
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Ok so what is this for? I had bought the two because i did not want to drive 4 hours total and get the wrong one.

HPI part # 86057 8x78mm is the right dogbone for the front. HPI part # 86056 8x84mm is the rear dogbone for stock length TVPs. So, the one you need to use is 86057 8x78mm.
 
HPI part # 86057 8x78mm is the right dogbone for the front. HPI part # 86056 8x84mm is the rear dogbone for stock length TVPs. So, the one you need to use is 86057 8x78mm.


I already installed the 86057. I was just showing the thickness between the old stock vise the new design if I may say (thicker instead of the notched shaft). I should have specified the truck I have, so yes that 86056 is for trucks smaller than XL. MY bad Leroy.
 
For the past 3 months I been running the truck at the race track. What kept me from perfoming was the shocks. I finally found a setup I can say is my best thus far. Keep in mind the weather can effect the shock oil/piston and of course the driver. I like to roll into the turns applying enough brake to allow the front end (shock to contract) to grab the ground. On the jumps it doesn't act like a bowling ball (bouncy bouncy) or hard bottoming out of the jumps.


Front
1.6 piston
40 weight oil
7.0 Pink Spring part #86551
BB shock rod 90mm but installed 10mm fuel tube internal of bore to shorten the travel to approx 80mm.
2nd to the largest spacer

Rear
1.6 Piston I drilled an additional .5mm hole on the piston
50 weight oil
5.5 Silver spring part #86550
BB shock rod but intalled 6mm fuel tube internal of bore to shorten the travel to approx 84mm.
Large spacer
 
Great info for people who want to get into racing and have a great suspension setup!
I may consider even doing this for my basher....

Thanks for the idea Joe on how to attach the lower part of the shocks to the a arms... should prevent my shocks popping off.

Are the measurements of the hellfire shaft and stock BB shaft exactly 70 and 90mm??? i only ask as i have someone who may be making some actual TI Shock shafts, not just TI Coated...
 
Are the measurements of the hellfire shaft and stock BB shaft exactly 70 and 90mm??? i only ask as i have someone who may be making some actual TI Shock shafts, not just TI Coated...

Yes. Hellfire 70mm and the BB A720 shaft 90mm.
 
Just , WOW! I hope to do an 1/8th of that cool stuff to either of my trucks. Thanks Joe.
 
Just , WOW! I hope to do an 1/8th of that cool stuff to either of my trucks. Thanks Joe.

Thanks Aaro. I did learn a few things, with the cost and performance that were unnecessary. I have used this truck to bash and race, while being able to sport a great appearance.
 
Update

UPDATE The 250cc did its job, but the tank sat high which did not make the truck low center gravity. Same with the battery and receiver box being mounted on the side. It made the truck lean on the left side when in mid air. So I decided to try the CEN 220 tank http://www.nitro-toyz.com/ceggs036.html, HPI Bumper Set Nitro Rush http://www.rcplanet.com/HPI_Bumper_Set_Nitro_Rush_p/hpia349.htm Traxxas Sealed Receiver Box http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1466_74/products_id/27191/n/Traxxas-Sealed-Receiver-Box

I did my best to show clearances but it is hard to get the camera to focus. A little tinkering and it set up nice. There is about a 3mm clearance between the tank and drive cup, 3mm clearance between the drive shaft and front of the tank, the servo arm has about 5mm at its closest, the receiver box and tank is 10mm. I hope the pictures helps.

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looks good joe

serves the purpose of functionality, plus imm liking the clean look on your tvps also.
 
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Nice work bud. Love the Cen tank look. Question - why do are using a philip head screw when you have cap hex heads on the frame? Need another hex head screw. On your shock towers why are the nuts facing outwards? Wouldn't it look cleaner if the where facing inwards? with the screw head facing outwards? JMO.
 
]-[0pa]0ng;190716 said:
On your shock towers why are the nuts facing outwards? Wouldn't it look cleaner if the where facing inwards? with the screw head facing outwards? JMO.

if you mount with the bolt facing the tank, the tower can bend in a crash and puncture the tank.
 
]-[0pa]0ng;190716 said:
Nice work bud. Love the Cen tank look. Question - why do are using a philip head screw when you have cap hex heads on the frame? Need another hex head screw. On your shock towers why are the nuts facing outwards? Wouldn't it look cleaner if the where facing inwards? with the screw head facing outwards? JMO.

Yup fred covered it. I punctured a tank before so thats why I went the other way. As for the philips head screw on the transmission, I did not have a long enough hex screw at first and never bought the hex to changed it.
 
Great info. I don't think I've seen that tank get used yet. You defently got the sucker as low as you could LoL

Thanks for the pics rockout

Savage Sam has the 220 setup, not sure if any have posted the 220 tank in the forum. IMO the 220CC is the way to go. Nothing wrong with the 250 but 220 is better.
 

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