Dad's dedication to Joseph Paul "Angel"

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i have just torn my truck completely down, and all my bearings are shot... one of my diff bearings had completely seized! I thnk a boca bearing upgrade is going to be coming sooner than expected! I am going to place a small shim either side of every bearing if possible to prevent any damage to them. I noticed that my stock bearings were getting "pinched" in areas allowing dust to get in...
 
J1A1H said:
i have just torn my truck completely down, and all my bearings are shot... one of my diff bearings had completely seized! I thnk a boca bearing upgrade is going to be coming sooner than expected! I am going to place a small shim either side of every bearing if possible to prevent any damage to them. I noticed that my stock bearings were getting "pinched" in areas allowing dust to get in...
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You may need to put shims on either side, one side only or non at all of course that depends on the clearance between the bearing and bulkhead. Just make sure you are not binding and allow minimal play. I am just getting the Bearings for minimal resistance all around the truck. The only bearing i ever seized or blew was my clutch bearing and that was because I did not align the motor properly.
 
JoeGuam said:
I got my diffs set up where it doesn't unload to shred the tires. You have to set your end point on the brake so where you can still push the truck manually when fully applied. If not you will end up on your body or destroying your tire threads.
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Very nice looking truck mate. That thing is awesome, i love the body! Just reading this thread and saw this? What did you do to yours diffs to make them "untireshreadable" Cheers
 
ryan86 said:
Very nice looking truck mate. That thing is awesome, i love the body! Just reading this thread and saw this? What did you do to yours diffs to make them "untireshreadable" Cheers
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Thanks Ryan for the compliment. I won’t say it is “untireshreadable†but less wear on the tire and more on the brake pads. I have seen people like myself, which do not have a good throttle/brake finger, end up on their bodies (front flip) or shred the tire because it locks up eating away only that portion where the tire meets the asphalt. On the transmitter I had set the end points to act like an ABS “Antilock Breaking Systemâ€. I take the extra 5-10 ft before the truck comes to a complete stop, while still being able to control the truck in mid air.
 
After numerous motor and engine mount failures. The modified Picco's are not so forgiving to the stock and FLM mounts. The Motor seems to find a week point and cascade additional wear or breakage on othe parts ie Clutch Bells.

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The new Engine Mount is designed to accept the Picco's without having to shave the interiors and I can use a regular screws instead of the button head type. The engine bolts was able to clear the FLM extended chassis.
 
Sweet Joe so far the FLM mount is holding up with the ERCM K, not sure how long it was last but it's kicking butt :)
Got some part numbers and prices maybe for people that are interested those the engine mounts ..
 
xll-SavageX-llx said:
Sweet Joe so far the FLM mount is holding up with the ERCM K, not sure how long it was last but it's kicking butt :)
Got some part numbers and prices maybe for people that are interested those the engine mounts ..
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Brandon just take a look every now and then to make sure. It starts of as a hair line crack, then it get worse.

I bought them for $38 each in Japan
 
JoeGuam said:
Brandon just take a look every now and then to make sure. It starts of as a hair line crack, then it get worse.

I bought them for $38 each in Japan
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Like this ??

IMG_1801.jpg
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I used a full skid plate brace for the back of the mount same as the front, and a M3x15MM screw with a M3 lock not as you can see it sticking out to the right ..
 
xll-SavageX-llx said:
Like this ??

IMG_1801.jpg
IMG_1802.jpg


IMG_1806.jpg


I used a full skid plate brace for the back of the mount same as the front, and a M3x15MM screw with a M3 lock not as you can see it sticking out to the right ..
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SavyScott said:
That mount looks alot like this Brandon
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=86399&search=Go

You also might want to look on ebay seen it cheaper on there..

Here is a link to the plate..
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXSA5&P=7
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Scott that motor plate is for the flux. LOL

Brandon, yes just like that. IMO the Stock is stronger than the FLM; FLM is flashy and will not be good for bashing. Most of my runs were on the road and yes i had the same set up. The dog bone rubs against the rear skid brace that eventually weakens the brace and motor mount. If the ERCM 4.6 broke that stock mount it is going to do it to your FLM as well.

HPI86399 Heavy Duty Heatsink Engine Mount (6061S/Purple)
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/86399/

This is the Motor Mount
HPI102699 HD HEATSINK ENGINE PLATE 10mm (7075S/GRAY)
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/102699/
 
Yo Joe, wondering if you can help me out. I'm after a new body and it looks like the GMC will fit nicely on my truck according to the length....

I remember there being a thread but couldnt find it when searching about how you did such a sexy job on your gmc body... Could you help me out please?

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af263/joeguamagat/Updated%20MID%20TANK/826025f0.jpg

BTW just got my new Centre diff in, it looks so nice... should be great removing the weak tranny these savages have!
 
Here are some pictures of the new Motor and Engine Mount. Just know I disassembled just to show it. Fun! These pictures are after 1 gallon with the ERCM/AB Mod Picco. NO DAMAGE!!!!

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That is one tough looking motor mount!!! i think i would have gone for that as well. I think people who are having pinion, spur, mesh problems causing them to shred easily, should consider getting a better motor mount as it could be the culprit as to why our gears keep shredding

Nice1 for taking it apart to show off your new bling haha...
 
J1A1H said:
That is one tough looking motor mount!!! i think i would have gone for that as well. I think people who are having pinion, spur, mesh problems causing them to shred easily, should consider getting a better motor mount as it could be the culprit as to why our gears keep shredding

Nice1 for taking it apart to show off your new bling haha...
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Not really Bling but the Thing for Modded Motors
I have to give credit to John the past Administrator for giving the tip. He was the one who talk me through why and what I should do to minimizing broken parts. Thanks John
 
I could just trace out my old engine mount and get it cut on 3mm aluminum for $20, i have the aluminum too :lmao:[/QUOTE]

Try 10mm Brandon because that is how thick the mount is. LOL
 
JoeGuam said:
Not really Bling but the Thing for Modded Motors
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What do you mean by this ? "Modded motors".. A mod motor don't hurt the mount and plate any more then a stock one. Its the cart wheels that break them ..

Also it all the plate, not the motor mount... I broke every alloy plate/mill mount I tried till I went with a carbon plate. It stopped all the broken mounts and plates from that day on. Getting close to two years, no issues.
 
Justin said:
What do you mean by this ? "Modded motors".. A mod motor don't hurt the mount and plate any more then a stock one. Its the cart wheels that break them ..

Also it all the plate, not the motor mount... I broke every alloy plate/mill mount I tried till I went with a carbon plate. It stopped all the broken mounts and plates from that day on. Getting close to two years, no issues.
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I have a gallon through it now and no broken mounts. My motors like to break them stockers. Cart wheels, bad driving, jumps etc are definately the killer for them. The Power of the motor is a bit much for them stocker. IMO. I gave the new mounts a try and thus far it is good. Put it this way every 1/2 a gallon I would break the mounts. The new ones add weight but I really do not care. It is thick enough to handle the crashes, mashes, cart wheels, jumps, and the torque output of the mills I have; Thus far. Crossing my fingers. If they happen to break then I will get the Platinum. I just can't wait for days when I have them at the LHS in Japan.
 
Hey Joe i just put the mill on the FLM mount tonight and with 47/18 the screws holding the motor mount, hit the TVP about half the screw hits, i had to take the dremel out and notch it out so the screws would slide under .. Does FLM know about this issue ??
 
xll-SavageX-llx said:
Hey Joe i just put the mill on the FLM mount tonight and with 47/18 the screws holding the motor mount, hit the TVP about half the screw hits, i had to take the dremel out and notch it out so the screws would slide under .. Does FLM know about this issue ??
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PM me the picture.
 
JoeGuam said:
I have a gallon through it now and no broken mounts. My motors like to break them stockers. Cart wheels, bad driving, jumps etc are definately the killer for them. The Power of the motor is a bit much for them stocker. IMO. I gave the new mounts a try and thus far it is good. Put it this way every 1/2 a gallon I would break the mounts. The new ones add weight but I really do not care. It is thick enough to handle the crashes, mashes, cart wheels, jumps, and the torque output of the mills I have; Thus far. Crossing my fingers. If they happen to break then I will get the Platinum. I just can't wait for days when I have them at the LHS in Japan.
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I do not doubt the 10mm will never break but sure is more durable than the 3mm.
 
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The truck is under going maintenance and these are going in.

The 2 Picco's have Boca ceramics installed with new connecting rods.
 
J1A1H said:
thats a lot of bearings!!! Thats not all for one truck is it?
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Yes Josh, all of the bearings are for one truck. These will take care of every bearing to include the BP Diffs. After i finish the truck I will have 2 extra 10x16x5mm.
 
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