Savage XL Nitro Convert into Flux!

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Ordered new 2 speed gearbox since my 3speed somehow toutched the top cover! Ordered a new 2 speed cheap gearbox!
Got my MM2 Engine+Esc today! The car is ready to try as once the gearbox arrives within next week!
I just got myself a temporary engine mount untill the kershaw kit is avaliable again!
Now i wonder, all my car is RPM as much as i can, now i need new hubs + carriers.. any1 got a good clue? It needs to be SOLID. alu pref
 
Gearbox arrived everything fit and match up! But the rubish engine bracket i ordered on ebay did not fit.. had a temporary fix but i need a good engine bracket for the spur/pinion ti line up perfectly! Kershaw kit aint avaliable in 2-3 weeks.. Are there any engine bracket i can order wich mach up on my truck? Just to have the car up and running? The car is ripping tho.. its insane powerfull.. but not gonna drive it and take the chance of break the motor shaft!
 
THE TRUCK IS FINISHED!! I still miss brackets to hold on the battery cases, but i did a temporary fix and they are sitting perfect!!
But an upgrade i really gonna do is aluminum hubs + i really need a set of 17mm hubs, not these small 8mm screw's! Any1 got a nice top on how to do or what 2 order? :-D

I spoke to Dan and i now got his Kershaw engine mount kit. Bolt on (10min job)
I'm expecting a flux mount for my ESC, also made a temporary plate for that!

IMG_2601.JPG
 
Do they fit my big ass axels? hmz! And why do i also got tie rods in the rear? never seen that.. cant find any alu parts that seem to fit :s
 
Kim said:
Do they fit my big ass axels? hmz! And why do i also got tie rods in the rear? never seen that.. cant find any alu parts that seem to fit :s
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For the first, I beleive you'll need to swap to X stub axles.

For the second, it looks like you have older .21 hubs in the rear. THe newer parts do away with the rear tie rod and lock the toe I believe
 
Jr. said:
For the second, it looks like you have older .21 hubs in the rear. THe newer parts do away with the rear tie rod and lock the toe I believe
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Sadly this is incorrect. All savages have the same knuckles/ tie rods front and back.

Kim, what you want are the Integy rear hub carriers. They make different colors (blue, purple, silver, orange, etc).
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWSY0
 
Ordered integy rear, I'm having an issue, suddenly the car felt much slower, wont do wheelies like first, checked front + rear diff and transmission! Everything is perfect! What can be wrong? hmm
 
Kim said:
Ordered integy rear, I'm having an issue, suddenly the car felt much slower, wont do wheelies like first, checked front + rear diff and transmission! Everything is perfect! What can be wrong? hmm
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Did you check your slipper? Does your motor have a flat on the shaft for the pinion grub screw?
 
Oh yeah i understand, yeah it does have a flat, its screwed hard on there with lock tite! So it wont come off, it came off 2 min after my first run, but it wont that anymore! haha
 
Okay, could it be that small plate that has broke down? How do i see if its broke? il take of the spur and check
 
Kim said:
Okay, could it be that small plate that has broke down? How do i see if its broke? il take of the spur and check
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The alloy plate behind your spur is the slipper hub. Sandwiched between the spur and the hub is a pad. The pad may be smoked, not allowing enough friction to grab well, or more likely, the nut on the front of the slipper is a little loose, allowing too much spinning.
 
ah.. i guess thats the problem then! I did NOT tight it that much :D hehe! Plate looks fine though..
 
Ah okay! Lets say the car is still the same, what else could be the problem?
 
could be that the nylock portion if the slipper nut has lost its ability to hold on, usually happens when it is run loose and this causes heat buildup in the slipper which transfers to the shaft and nut causing the nylock to fail, only one cure I know of is to replace the nut and set the slipper tight and try again.... I always put a drop of locktite in the slipper nut and let it set and dry good....
 
Tried the car in full darkness, its 110% back! BUT suddenly it throttled MAX for 2 sec, do you got any clue on that?? I got the savox servo earlier linked here, but when car stands still the wheels wont turn, u got any idea? when i drive it works
 
Not sure on why it woulda glitched the throttle for a bit, could have bee a signal loss or many different things...
I have to think you must have some binding in your steering setup as my truck will whip the wheels on carpet without trouble... take things apart and look at everything that needs to pivot for steering and I am sure you will find the problem...
 
Kim said:
Tried the car in full darkness, its 110% back! BUT suddenly it throttled MAX for 2 sec, do you got any clue on that?? I got the savox servo earlier linked here, but when car stands still the wheels wont turn, u got any idea? when i drive it works
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Are you using a BEC? Or is it plugged into the ESC? Or do you still have a hump pack?
 
What u mean? Glitch buster? Servo is plugged into the reciever
 
My wheel bearings are extremely noicy, a squicky noise They are really old and have been standing for a long time! Are there any option wheel bearings?
And the integy front wheel hubs do they increase the steering angle?
 
Kim said:
What u mean? Glitch buster? Servo is plugged into the reciever
Click to expand...

I do believe that plugged into the receiver, the servo's are getting the voltage dropped down, but it's been years and I'm a little fuzzy.

As for bearings, I've always used Boca or ACER
 
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