Total newb, hpi engine 3.5

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@Tiddy " I tried changing idle but it won't turn any more clockwise and it made no difference "

IF YOU TRULY HAVE THE "IDLE SCREW" TURNED IN ALL THE WAY THAT WOULD BE A PROBLEM AS YOU TURN IT COUNTER CLOCK WISE TO LOWER THE IDLE SPEED/GAP..... BREAKING IN A NEW ENGINE ISNT A 30 MINUTE JOB , ITS MORE LIKE A WEEKEND....

ALSO THESE MIGHT BE HELPFULL:

FOUND ON THIS SITE UNDER "NITRO ENGINES" , "LIST OF USEFUL NITRO ENGINE THREADS" :

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/list-of-useful-nitro-engine-threads.13941/

https://hpisavageforum.com/threads/how-to-heat-cycle-your-engine-for-newbies-pros.6972/

https://hpisavageforum.com/threads/nitro-engine-tunning-guide.745/
 
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I've just noticed this wheel has a bit of play in back and forth on shaft, should it have play
 

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I spent last night trying to set linkages up , but it won't accept my video from my phone on here and I would like it checked before I start ir
 
Make sure that your recievers throttle end point adjustment always puts a slight amount of closing force on the carb slide when you let off the throttle trigger.
 
Make sure that your recievers throttle end point adjustment always puts a slight amount of closing force on the carb slide when you let off the throttle trigger.
Hi thank you for advice, what you mean closing forcs
 
Hi thank you for advice, what you mean closing forcs
when the throttle is at neutral u need the linkage to close the carb competely. then the idle screw is used to determine that max gap from closed at neutral. u see that arm that attachs to the carb?. u can actually wind it out or in to get more length.
 
when the throttle is at neutral u need the linkage to close the carb competely. then the idle screw is used to determine that max gap from closed at neutral. u see that arm that attachs to the carb?. u can actually wind it out or in to get more length.
Thank you, I think I've sorted it ill put picture up later
 
Now I'm looking for a good exhaust for a hpi 3.5 rear exit round pipe, I ordered one but flange on exhaust manifold is too wide to fit as it hits top of roto start plate, so I'm hoping wheelspin models take it back as it was opened.
 
generally you won't find a single-piece header/pipe unless it's a custom upgrade pipe. sold together and assembled sure, but not a single piece it's usually a header and a pipe.
 
I've now got my beast out after fittingnew engine I'm bit scared to try it, lol, the arm is set when it's just sat with controller on ready to start, is this correct please?
 

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no still too high of an idle. it should look more like this about a 1mm gap

also read up on how to break a new engine in. it's not hard just takes time.
 

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there's multiple things you could change. could you send a pic of the whole linkage?

usually, I would start by taking off the servo horn, setting the servo to center, then putting the horn on so the carb is properly set.

also, make sure that it is the linkage and not your idle screw. to do that disconnect the linkage from the carb, then use the screw to set the carb at the proper gap like the pic I posted. then put the linkage back on and if it's off still mess with the linkage as I said.
 
oh, also I see your missing the throttle spring. it goes from the rod end ( black part attached to the carb) to the brass hi speed needle. that's very important as well to keep the carb closed
 

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It's a brand new engine, instructions say to not touch needles at all, the carb moves if I adjust arm on it to throttle
 
oh, also I see your missing the throttle spring. it goes from the rod end ( black part attached to the carb) to the brass hi speed needle. that's very important as well to keep the carb closed
Whats the spring for I don't understand
 
there's multiple things you could change. could you send a pic of the whole linkage?

usually, I would start by taking off the servo horn, setting the servo to center, then putting the horn on so the carb is properly set.

also, make sure that it is the linkage and not your idle screw. to do that disconnect the linkage from the carb, then use the screw to set the carb at the proper gap like the pic I posted. then put the linkage back on and if it's off still mess with the linkage as I said.
OK ill try that thank you
 
the spring makes sure the carb closes when you go to idle. otherwise, the carb could get stuck open. very important.

correct, don't just the needles. the idle screw isn't the needle, it sets the gap on the carb when closed. that you might have to adjust

here's the checklist just to restate from first to last:

first, get a spring and install it

second, take linkage off from the carb and set the gap at 1mm using the idle screw (side of carb)

third, put linkage on and if the gap is still too big remove servo horn, set the servo to center, and put the horn back on so that it allows the carb to close
 

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Sorry about loads of photos but I wanted you to see whole linkage, carb with throttle arm attached and not attached if that make any difference? I just want it going but obviously correctly how much the engine cost me lol.
 
the spring makes sure the carb closes when you go to idle. otherwise, the carb could get stuck open. very important.

correct, don't just the needles. the idle screw isn't the needle, it sets the gap on the carb when closed. that you might have to adjust

here's the checklist just to restate from first to last:

first, get a spring and install it

second, take linkage off from the carb and set the gap at 1mm using the idle screw (side of carb)

third, put linkage on and if the gap is still too big remove servo horn, set the servo to center, and put the horn back on so that it allows the carb to close
Which spring will I need for my engine I can't seem to find out on Google? Thank you
 

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