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R

rody

Active Member
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Hi all,

I'm wondering if you guys can point me in the right direction. I bought a used Savage 25 about a month ago. I pulled it apart, upgraded it a little, and fixed a set of stripped differentials. However, I can't get the engine started up. It appears that fuel isn't getting to the carb to get the engine running. I've replaced the fuel line, and the gas tank with new ones. I've also noticed that the carb is fairly loose. I can twist it back and forth, but I've tightened down the pinch bolt as tight as I can.

I took the carb out, and noticed that the neck had a sleeve. Is that normal? (BTW, I have the stock Nitro Star 25 engine). I'm thinking that I'm loosing air pressure by the carb neck. I sealed it with silicone sealant, but I still can't get fuel to the motor. Can any of you guys give me suggestions on what to do? Thanks.
 
well if its seald and not twisting now it should get fuel to the carb if the tank lid has a good seal and your priming it by placeing your finger over the exaust stinger(outlet) as you try starting it as soon as you feel the first sputter release your finger from the stinger it should start if the carbs idle is set good and the needles are set right ..good luck hope this helps..
 
i had a similar problem with the carb moving on a .25 i bought off line. on mine though i also could not get it off once i loosened the pinch bolt. after hours of tapping the pinch bolt back and forth trying to find the sweet spot and pulling and prying i ended up damaging the carb, so i replaced it with a spare carb off an old dynamite mach .26 mill i had. after that i sealed the carb and tightened it up and it hasn't moved since.

keep us posted and don't lose faith, the awsome guys on hpisf will get you up and running!

tobias
 
Thanks for the pointers guys. I guess I forgot to mention that even though I have the pinched bolt cranked down and sealed, the carb still twists around pretty easily. I'm thinking that where the pinch bolt is connected is sealed around the carb sleeve, but the sleeve is loose around the carb neck.

I've tried blowing into the pressure line that goes into the fuel tank, but I can't get the fuel to move into the carb, and it seems as if the tank is sealed. I'll check the inlet into the carb to see if it's blocked. Thanks again. I won't give up, I want to see this thing running.
 
yes mine twisted freely like yours but like i said i messed it up trying to get it off so i just replaced it with the mach .26 carb.
it's not your tank thats blocked is it? if you remove the line to the carb and blow, is that free?
 
depending on availability of funds & the probably age of the mill & work it needs, you may save yourself a lot of time & headache by purchasing a new mill.


after you get it running, really no telling how good the mill is gonna be considering its used.
 
also you want to seal the both sides of the pinch bolt (on the outside) but that should not effect it as far as not running but might cause a tuning issue with an air leak
 
OK, I was able to blow through the tank, when I took the fuel and pressure lines off of the tank. So the blockage must be in the carb inlet. I'm gonna check that next. I'll keep you posted.

I was thinking of maybe upgrading to the K4.6 using the exchange program, but I'm kind of stubborn and want to see if I can get this engine going. If I can't, any suggestions on a good low cost, easy to maintain engine?
 
With all the sealing talk in this thread I will add use three bond 1211 or hondabond, yammabond or other sealant meant for a aluminum case's and fuel proof. You will find it at most place s that sell and service motorcycles and dirt bikes. Nitro will loosen up the other sealants like RTV and silicone is like sand paper inside a mill!
 
try opening the carb by hand and then try to blow fuel into the carb if it wont go in while the carb is open the problem is in the fuel inlet or hsn. If it goes in it is probley your idle is set too low or your lsn is set in too far set both lsn and hsn to flush and make sure there is about a 1mm idle gap when the carb is closed than retry if it still doesn't go in you have dirt or something blocking the inlet disasemble and clean and retry. as for the carb turning that is for someone else to answer I don't know.

Good luck.
 
Hi guys. Just an update. I couldn't figure out what was wrong with my truck, so I brought it to a local Savage guru. It turns out that the carb in the engine didn't fit right. He showed me a whole bunch of HPI carbs from stock Nitro Star 25 engines, and it seemse like there are different carbs that go on them. The neck sizes are different. Unfortunately, he didn't have an HPI carb that fit my engine. He did have a Super Tiger carb that fit though, and once that was installed it was running nicely.

He also pointed out a few bolts that I need to tighten up before I run the truck, so I'll do that later today. Finally she's alive!
 
rody said:
Hi guys. Just an update. I couldn't figure out what was wrong with my truck, so I brought it to a local Savage guru. It turns out that the carb in the engine didn't fit right. He showed me a whole bunch of HPI carbs from stock Nitro Star 25 engines, and it seemse like there are different carbs that go on them. The neck sizes are different. Unfortunately, he didn't have an HPI carb that fit my engine. He did have a Super Tiger carb that fit though, and once that was installed it was running nicely.

He also pointed out a few bolts that I need to tighten up before I run the truck, so I'll do that later today. Finally she's alive!
Click to expand...

Happy to hear that rody,let us no how she runs.. Now get out there and bash that baby..lol..
 
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