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LRP zr .30 question
- Thread starter fouteros
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Londoner
c0ckney geezer!!
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Not entirely sure what your question is mate, it should rev high past half throttle.
Your carb settings are 2 1/8 higher than factory settings? Do you mean 2 1/8 turns out from factory settings, if so you are probably running super rich and I'm surprised its running at all.
When the manual for the LRP .30 states the factory settings it means you need to turn the two needles all the way in, but don't tighten them just screw them in until you start to feel any resistance, then back them out to the required amount of turns stated, which for the LRP zr.30 spec 2 are 2.25 turns out (after screwed all the way in) for the mid range (the needle at the end of the carb slide) and 2.75 turns out (again from screwed in all the way) for the main needle (the screw at the top of the brass fuel inlet)
Id go back to these settings, and run again, if its fully broken in then turn the main needle IN (clockwise) in 1/8 of a turn increments to improve performance.
If required give the mid range a 1/8 of a turn IN.
After you have done this set your throttle trim on the Tx to neutral and adjust idle speed if necessary, the idle screw is the one closest to the block on the same side of the carb as the main needle.
I'm nearly done breaking in my LRP.30 and it has more than enough power on factory settings and has destroyed an almost new rear diff already, cant imagine what itl be like fully broken in and tuned a little!
Your carb settings are 2 1/8 higher than factory settings? Do you mean 2 1/8 turns out from factory settings, if so you are probably running super rich and I'm surprised its running at all.
When the manual for the LRP .30 states the factory settings it means you need to turn the two needles all the way in, but don't tighten them just screw them in until you start to feel any resistance, then back them out to the required amount of turns stated, which for the LRP zr.30 spec 2 are 2.25 turns out (after screwed all the way in) for the mid range (the needle at the end of the carb slide) and 2.75 turns out (again from screwed in all the way) for the main needle (the screw at the top of the brass fuel inlet)
Id go back to these settings, and run again, if its fully broken in then turn the main needle IN (clockwise) in 1/8 of a turn increments to improve performance.
If required give the mid range a 1/8 of a turn IN.
After you have done this set your throttle trim on the Tx to neutral and adjust idle speed if necessary, the idle screw is the one closest to the block on the same side of the carb as the main needle.
I'm nearly done breaking in my LRP.30 and it has more than enough power on factory settings and has destroyed an almost new rear diff already, cant imagine what itl be like fully broken in and tuned a little!
Combuster
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- Santa Clarita, California
does your savage move when you hit the throttle
- Thread starter
- #5
First of all I'm not a beginner
then when i say 2 1/8 i mean two 1/8 clockwise turns from the break in settings ,
and when i say it revs extremely i mean that i have never seen this before its that high
i have broken in and tuned a hpi t15,a 21bb (savage 3.5)
a k4.6 and i have never had a problem on tuning those engines they where running sweet
anyway i will check the slipper clutch to see if it is loosen
and my 2 speed tranny is out of tune do you think tha it has anything to do with it?
thanks
then when i say 2 1/8 i mean two 1/8 clockwise turns from the break in settings ,
and when i say it revs extremely i mean that i have never seen this before its that high
i have broken in and tuned a hpi t15,a 21bb (savage 3.5)
a k4.6 and i have never had a problem on tuning those engines they where running sweet
anyway i will check the slipper clutch to see if it is loosen
and my 2 speed tranny is out of tune do you think tha it has anything to do with it?
thanks
Londoner
c0ckney geezer!!
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- London, UK
Cool calm down ma man, were only trying to help ya.
If your not a beginner you should know that 2 and 1/8 turns clockwise, IN, from factory settings is probably FAR to much, especially for a just broken in engine, id say you are super lean lol
I'm still a nitro noob pretty much and i wouldnt dream of winding in my LRP needles 2 and 1/8 turns just after break in, thats almost all the way back in again?!?! Break in/factory settings for the main needle are 2.75 turns OUT from all the way in, if your turning it back in again 2 and 1/8 from factory settings then you are almost shutting the fuel supply off completely and its extremely lean on the mid/top end hence your getting extremely high revving past half throttle, I'm not 100% here but i think this is your problem.
Go back to factory settings and retune.
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Londoner
c0ckney geezer!!
- Messages
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- Location
- London, UK
No problem mate, but really, you shouldnt need to be turning your needles in 2 and an 8th turns from break in settings, that engine has so much power even on break in settings id only turn in maybe half to three quarters of a turn maximum only for slightly better fuel consumtion if nothing else, 2 and 1/8 of a turn in from what i know you are risking doing some serious damage to your engine.
- Thread starter
- #10
I have another question what temps do you see and can you hold the engine head with your hands at your peak temperature ?
I'm asking this because i don't have a temp gun
other than that its fine i see smoke from the exhaust at full throttle
I'm asking this because i don't have a temp gun
other than that its fine i see smoke from the exhaust at full throttle
Combuster
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thats why i asked if it moved like it is supposed because if it didnt, which it didnt i would have told you to check your slipper, because that is one of the most common problem aside from grub screws falling out.
Combuster
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- Santa Clarita, California
no you shouldnt be able to hold the head when it is warmed up because they run in the low 200's to mid 200's
