Lrp .32

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Perhaps more issues with the snake tank but try a primer bulb as a matter of fact tryou diffrent grades of primer bulbs....look at you lawn mower or you weed Wacker. Chain saw or any small engine....what do you see and what don't you lawn out see on those 2 stroke engines? Answer= primer bulbs and no breather hose to the exhaust....I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with mid tank lean and alot of those tanks are not square....I been running chainsaws weed walkers brush SawS my whole life insurance know what mid tank lean is and they are all use with chokes to prime the engine these days....
As per shelf queen! They are all shelf queens but at least half the fun for me is investigating searching for some nice upgrades and building it and the other half is for enjoying your creation....I'll bash mine no matter how much money I got put into it cause parts for these things are dirt cheap for and who says you can't have a nice hopped up whip to just cruise and tear it up while being pretty and who says you can't have one for all out bashing and one for hotrod shows and one for racing since all of the above demand 3 diffrent set ups....this is my first but I swear it is not going to be the only one I'll own I'll need at least 3 now that I mention it....hahaha
But no matter it's all I'm good fun this forum is one of the best forums I've ever been in for useful information....I've built gaming towers before this but that got way to expensive but those forums were hard to get anywhere with I like savage territory.

IT'S ALL ABOUT EVOLUTION!
 
58Nish said:
Perhaps more issues with the snake tank but try a primer bulb as a matter of fact tryou diffrent grades of primer bulbs....look at you lawn mower or you weed Wacker. Chain saw or any small engine....what do you see and what don't you lawn out see on those 2 stroke engines? Answer= primer bulbs and no breather hose to the exhaust....I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with mid tank lean and alot of those tanks are not square....I been running chainsaws weed walkers brush SawS my whole life insurance know what mid tank lean is and they are all use with chokes to prime the engine these days....
As per shelf queen! They are all shelf queens but at least half the fun for me is investigating searching for some nice upgrades and building it and the other half is for enjoying your creation....I'll bash mine no matter how much money I got put into it cause parts for these things are dirt cheap for and who says you can't have a nice hopped up whip to just cruise and tear it up while being pretty and who says you can't have one for all out bashing and one for hotrod shows and one for racing since all of the above demand 3 diffrent set ups....this is my first but I swear it is not going to be the only one I'll own I'll need at least 3 now that I mention it....hahaha
But no matter it's all I'm good fun this forum is one of the best forums I've ever been in for useful information....I've built gaming towers before this but that got way to expensive but those forums were hard to get anywhere with I like savage territory.

IT'S ALL ABOUT EVOLUTION!
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Your talking 2 completely different types of carberators. That are fed differently. Chainsaws either are gravity fed or have what is called an impulse hose that runs to the engine block. Nitro motors run off an impulse hose that runs to the exhaust. Just because you don't see the impulse hose doesn't mean it doesn't exhists. For example my stihl chainsaws and concrete saws. I've taken them apart and serviced them many times. Some times when a carburetor kit doesn't fix carb issues a possible source is the impulse hose that runs from the carb to the engine block. It all happens inside the housing the encloses that carb and without tearing it apart you'll never see it. They are also running much more pressure needed for the larger tanks, motor, and such therefore won't experience the same issue as our small motors and tanks. The ones that are gravity fed are completly different. They run on a fuel tank being higher then the carb. Many push mowers are a prime example of that, especially older or cheaper ones
 
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Yes I know the hose is there tanks are not gravity fed a carb is a carb it opens to let fuel in and closes and holds the needles to set for maximum preformance but that's it and you said it...the return hose runs to the engine not the exhaust...I can only image it's because it gives it a stronger pull keeping a more stable fuel pressure so when the carb opens it maintains pressure....maybe the exhaust is not a strong enough return for basically the same purpose....just because Nitro burns hotter doesn't mean it gets to the carb faster or slower because the fuel pump does that in this case the exhaust is the engines fuel pump it if it works for gas it should dang well work for nitro. Someone should try it the way...

Huge dreams eh!!!

And why has no by tried to use a husky or sthil engine in the gas buggy and cars there smallest xp engines would knock the socks off anything....they even made dirt bikes back in the day. They were haywire my buddy bought a used one dang near bit first ride...like I said haywire!

Hey but I appreciate every word your saying, I should have got into this hobby long ago....but I'm here now and it's exactly what I'm looking for in my down time!
 
58Nish said:
Yes I know the hose is there tanks are not gravity fed a carb is a carb it opens to let fuel in and closes and holds the needles to set for maximum preformance but that's it and you said it...the return hose runs to the engine not the exhaust...I can only image it's because it gives it a stronger pull keeping a more stable fuel pressure so when the carb opens it maintains pressure....maybe the exhaust is not a strong enough return for basically the same purpose....just because Nitro burns hotter doesn't mean it gets to the carb faster or slower because the fuel pump does that in this case the exhaust is the engines fuel pump it if it works for gas it should dang well work for nitro. Someone should try it the way...

Huge dreams eh!!!

And why has no by tried to use a husky or sthil engine in the gas buggy and cars there smallest xp engines would knock the socks off anything....they even made dirt bikes back in the day. They were haywire my buddy bought a used one dang near bit first ride...like I said haywire!

Hey but I appreciate every word your saying, I should have got into this hobby long ago....but I'm here now and it's exactly what I'm looking for in my down time!
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I never said nitro motors are gravity fed bro. Some lawnmowers and such are gravity fed. When you made the comparison to other types of motors I was just explaining the difference. There's several ways a carburetor can supply fuel to engines depending on the application. Nitros pull back pressure from the exhaust. Other engines gain fuel flow from different manners. Some from the pressure off the motor, some gravity fed, others fuel injection. Nitros could run off other manners but it's still such a small motor it can't handle the pressure fluctuations like the larger motors you brought up in comparison. What would be seen as a small fluctuation in a larger motor would be a huge fluctuation on a small motor. It doesn't have nothing to do with how the fuel is supplied. That's why some larger motors can get away with irregularly shaped fuel tanks better then these small motors. Even still most tanks don't get to irregular usually like your snaking tank design. I been working on motors most my life and this is pretty simple stuff. These motors are too small to handle fluctuations as well as chainsaws and the like that you tried making a comparison with.

Have a good day bro. This is completely getting away from what I made this thread for so unless you have something to add about lrp .32 motors or header mods I'm done discussing this with you. Start a thread about chainsaw carburetor on a chainsaw forumn and I would be happy to continue. You said chainsaws and such don't have the line to the exhaust and I explained correctly why .
 
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I think we're good and that engine is the sweetest!!!
And sorry bout the slide off topic...brixfix was just schooling me a Lil better..
 
20170612_170129.jpg we're good. Swung by the lhs and grabbed some os#8. Replacing the stock plug and getting ready to fire her up for the 1st time since the heart transplant. I will also be bypassing the header tank for break in as the motor should be running rich enough.
 
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20170612_172123.jpgfinally took the dremmel to the body. Not sure why hpi includes a roll cage for the xl made for the x that doesn't work with the frame or body. I've always just ran it without the body before. The roll cage is zipped tied in place but is very sturdy. Man that looked like a straight dremmel cut until I see it in close up pics...lol
 
I run the cage also, and never run my trucks without their bodies also. the body will help protect all the internals much better than running without it.... I think X also runs his with a body for the same reason although I think he runs a clear one due to him being too lazy to add paint :D
 
20170612_175926.jpg muck boots aren't just for muck up in this redneck household......fingers crossed she fires without issue
 
LRP's take a while to break-in. I always have used the heat cycle method. I don't do the "let it sit and idle" for the first tank. I immediately start gently driving on concrete. I do my entire break-in on concrete. Slowly apply gas up to 1/4-1/2 throttle, let off, apply, let off... god, break-ins are boring.

For every LRP I've had, they don't fully settle down until about a gallon is run through them and they tend to not tune well at least until 1500 cc's or so are run through them. I don't really rip any new engine until 1500'ish cc's have gone through it. Even then, I'm generally soft on them for the first gallon (3785cc's).

Also, I found that OS#8's were a bit too hot and odonnel purple plugs work well with 25% in them. YMMV.

I've had/broke-in 6 LRP's so far. 5 LRP28S3's and 1 LRP30S2. I was around for the start of another guys 30X.
 
20170612_183722.jpg fired right up....1st tank down. 224°...went pretty good and only lost 1 piece of meat from the pullstart. I followed lrps break in instructions which calls for some slow driving after its warmed up. Does anyone know how I can load a video i recorded on my phone?
 
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Pulled pretty easy after the hair dryer but still got some skin....lol worth it
 
Looks good, you know them Mechanics gloves? they might help from gettin your fingers blistered on that pullstart handle.....
 
I will definetly use a pair of gloves until I get a roto start. Tiger drive makes a 90° starter that is accessed through the top instead of the back like hpis roto start which would interfere with the header tanks position I just need to see if it's compatible with this motor. I haven't really looked yet. It was only like 5 or 6 pulls bedore it fired i thought my hands were tougher then that . Makes me appreciate out tmaxxs push button ez start...lol
 
Right on eh! You ain't doing it right unless you loose a chunk of meat..

I haven't looked into roto starts for this engine yet but looks like there's no need....keep it up bud!!
Love the way they sound and let us know how the plug works out.
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
I run the cage also, and never run my trucks without their bodies also. the body will help protect all the internals much better than running without it.... I think X also runs his with a body for the same reason although I think he runs a clear one due to him being too lazy to add paint :D
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All of the above is true.....and yes I'm lazy. I'm more utilitarian with my RCs, if it doesn't help function I just let it go. I figure it'll only look pretty for a short time anyway. Though.....atleast I don't drive into poles. :D
 
There's advantages and disadvantages with both pull starts and roto drive/tiger drive systems. It's all personal preference.
 
20170612_183423.jpg my bad camera tech (me) forgot to push the record button while driving the truck around so this is all I have for tank #2....hopefully he does a better job on #3
 
20170613_174454.jpg very strange. I've always been told to break a motor in around 200-220. I know I read these instructions a couple times. How did I miss this....160- 200 is perfect. I'll keep the rest of the tanks cooler. 160 just seems really cool. It should be fine, glow plug looks good. Not real sure how it's recommended to preheat the motor to 200 and not expect it to rise after start up.
 

So it was actually in the mid 170's when I brought it in from the run. Dropped to 167 by the time i got a pic. I had only leaned it an 1/8 turn from factory settings to get up over 200 but had to richen it more then I leaned it to get in the 170s. I reset the factory setting before having ever started the motor for the 1st tank as they were off a bit, so I'm positive I started with the right settings. Oh well all is good and I will continue to keep it under 200 for 5 more tanks per break in procedure. I was having difficulties filming and doing figure 8s so it's a short clip. Blubbering rich but everything seems ok.
 
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20170613_192939.jpg 20170613_192945.jpg It's definetly been super rich everytime....lol looks like a nitro murder scene in my driveway
 
I've learned I can not video tape and drive. Everything is going great. 2 more tanks and I can start tuning it. I'll get someone to video that process. She's starting to wake up. It's difficult not to just nail the throttle
 
Sweet. I'm about a week away from starting the break in on my LRP30 spec 4. I expect the first thing to go will be the plastic 1st gear in the tranny. Probably going to buy a metal one to have on hand.
 
Any Nitro :ercm: will not break in properly below 200 degrees or so.... doing so at lower temps will actually increase wear on the piston and sleeve......
 
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