J1A1H XXL Torque Monster Buildup........

[J1A1H]

Ok, my build is coming together now... Ive decided to list everything i have bought for this truck so i remember exactly how much effort i have spent on this truck.
I couldnt have done this without the help of :NLMD:

The 1 picture i have when it arrived at my door.

Complete List So Far:
Second Hand Savage Flux £500.00
It came with 6 LiPo Batteries 4x2s & 2x3s
Spare tranny
Hpi Dirt Bonz Wheels
Fibre Glass Shell in white
Ansmann GHZ Trans and Rx
Cheapo Charger
Power supply £35

Motor & Power
HYPERION G3VX 3s/6500mah/35c lipos £140
Neu Castle Creations 1520 1600kv Motor £120

Chassis Kit
GCM DB-17 Chassis Kit C$96
GCM Batt tray C$24
GCM Skid Plate C$23
GCM servo mounts x2 C$15

Rims & Tires
SPI Basher Wheels $115
Dirt Claws Tires £50
Proline tire inserts £10

Steering & Handling
HPI RSC suspension conversion kit £85
"Good Fake" aluminium BIg bores from HK (only for road use) £35
HPI XL Axle Extenders $15
Shock Springs (white) X8 $15.56
Ace DS 1015 Servo £60
Ansmann alu servo horn £10
HPI front and rear sway bar kit £25
Aluminium steering tie rod ends £11
Titanium turn buckles £15
GPM Steering Assembly £13
Shock Socks £7

Tranny, Gearing & Mechanical Brakes
Bullet Proof Diffs x2 $50
HPI HD 18-23t Drive Gear $11
HPI 39t high speed idler gear £25
HPI Light weight idler gear 29t £7
HPI Light weight drive gear 32t £7
17t pinion (Bashing & Jumps) £11
21t pinion (Grass and dirt surface) £11
25t pinion (Road use) £11
Ofna throttle mod £8
HPI Dual Fibre glass brake & Discs, piston, cam & hex £15

Bodies & Wing
White stock size fibreglass body Came with flux
Custom Silver Fibre glass body £75
Proline DesertRat body for slayer £30
Monster Energy Decals £10
PRC carbon wing mount £25
Hot bodies wing mount & screws £10
Traxxas carbon revo wing £10

Extra Stock parts & EXTRA BITS
Castle Link USB £13
Servo Y harness £2.39
Spider Gears x2 $6.70
Steering Bearings $8.45
Servo Saver $2.22
Diff gaskets $2.25
velcro straps x6 £10
Corrosion X for waterproofing £20
Diff Oil 30k & 50k £5
Car Stand £5
Adjustable Upper Arms £6
Savage X Arms £12
Shock oil 35wt x2 £2.75
Green Slime £3.50
Traxxas ESC mounting Plate £3.50
Alloy chassis bulk supports £6.00
HPI Gold Washers and nuts £9.00
Re enforced strapping tape for tires £2.00
Extra nuts and bolts for HPI £15
Rush Battery box £7.65
HPI Front and rear skid plates £6.35
8x wheel bearings £5
Extra suspension screws £5
Shrink Tubing £3
Fuel tubing 1m £1.50
Battery Foam £2

As the parts arrived i got very excited... took some pics and here they are before they were fitted....
Rims, Tires & Inserts

Comparison Between stock inserts and proline

Tire Weight Comparisons

Strapping my tires

Sway Bar kit

RSC Goodies

Stock fibreglass body vs XL Fibre glass body

Comparison of db-17 and stock tvps

Mounted some LEDs for a bit of fun when I'm bashing at the carpark at night

"Good Fake" Alu BB Shocks vs Stock Plastic Shocks

When i put the new motor in and get my batteries all soldered up with the deans... then ill be getting some vids up...

But in the mean time... some motor porn

Thanks again to all that have help me build the savage! All build up pics will come by the weekend

 

[fluxinator]

That looks like a sick build keep us posted =)

 

[Pope]

insain. Nice work.

 

[JoeGuam]

Oh Yah J1A1H. Awesome and check out that CF body too.

 

[frddyj]

the motor looks HUGE!

 

[Shaun]

i made a small correction on your list,you had called the dirt bonz tires a pro line product but they are actually HPI dirt bonz.. and your savy looks sweet i love the fiberglass bodies they look so cool....

 

[J1A1H]

Oh Yah J1A1H. Awesome and check out that CF body too.

Joe what CF Body are you talking about? or do you mean fibre glass????

Thanksa lot sad sack, i meant Hpi Tires.

I originally thought that the cooling fins on the motor would have been much larger. But in actual fact it looks like only 2-3 mm willl need to be ground of the Motor mounts. I was considering stretching the mounts over the motor, But i don't think that would be possible without scratching the motor fins excessively.

So i have 1 large flux now... next has to be a LCG PRC ext carbon Picco28. Going to have to save some coin for that build!

 

[JoeGuam]

Joe what CF Body are you talking about? or do you mean fibre glass????

Thanksa lot sad sack, i meant Hpi Tires.

I originally thought that the cooling fins on the motor would have been much larger. But in actual fact it looks like only 2-3 mm willl need to be ground of the Motor mounts. I was considering stretching the mounts over the motor, But i don't think that would be possible without scratching the motor fins excessively.

So i have 1 large flux now... next has to be a LCG PRC ext carbon Picco28. Going to have to save some coin for that build!

That is what I meant Fiber glass.. My mind was thinking Carbon Fiber at the time.

 

[J1A1H]

That is what I meant Fiber glass.. My mind was thinking Carbon Fiber at the time.

I know what you mean... since larsons and banks carbon build... I'm thinking about building a carbon bashing truck.

I haven't managed to fit the motor yet, but i finished the rest of my shocks using the fuel tube mod...

Also i thought i would take some body and light pics...

Hopefully if i find the time i will be putting it all together on the weekend

 

[frddyj]

plus rep taht this is just plain awesome.

i love the blue lights + rep.

 

[J1A1H]

nice1 frddy! Thought i would get the pictures out of the way... as of this weekend, ITS DEFINITELY NOT going to look this clean again! :chainkiller:
Going to test the poop out of this new motor!

 

[JoeGuam]

Awesome Truck. I want to see the day and night videos when you get a chance.

 

[J1A1H]

definitely joe! Its getting closer and closer to running time!!!!!!
Just got a few things sorted and repaired... Have a little looksy

I have decided to use bullet connectors as thats what my LHS Stock more of, and for some reason i just prefer them. don't know why...

Anyway i got my ESC RX wire re soldered inc bullet connectors

My batteries now with bullet connectors too...

These batteries are HUGE!!! Not only are they fatter they are longer than my usual batteries!!!
As you can see... its a very very tight squeeze in there

Still in the process of grinding down the motor mounts, but its taking much longer than expected... I have gone through 4 dremel sanding drums and haven't even finished one mount yet!!!! This is going to take a while... i need more drums!
Here is a pic of the length of the motor in the chassis

And last pic of it all sitting in their correct place minus ESC and servos.....

Hopefully all will be done over the weekend.....
Thanks for looking

Josh

 

[J1A1H]

A little update... I decided to mount my ESC and work out a mounting position for the mechanical brake servo. I also found that my new steering servo arm is so long that it would come into contact with the motor. So i had to work out another way of mounting it.... Here is what i came up with... your opinions are much apprciated if you can better what i came up with...

OK FIRSTLY...
The servo arm and relocation....

When its mounted it is obstructed by the motor...

So i thought i would try it mounted on the outside... I don't like how its so vulnerable... but i guess many people do this sort of thing so it should be ok...
Has anyone got any ideas for making a stronger longer linkage between the servo arm and the steering assembly???

I then had to move the mounting position of my Handle bar which required a little dremeling but its sitting nicely now... Its not really necessary to have it fitted but i am using it to protect the ESC....

I then drilled some mounting holes for the ESC. Although its mounted high up... It is protected by the roll bar and sits right under the centre of the body and is clear or any possible damage. Also if i do run it in te wet... it will be well away from splashes (i hope... pshhh corrosion x is protecting it anyway)

Here it is mounted

I then decided to find a place to mount my second servo for the brakes... Now because i had to relocate my ESC Position due to the larger batteries at the rear... i had to use a position which i didnt really want to use... But oh well... What do you think??? Do you think there is enough space for the servo arm and all the linkages etc.....????

Close up

I have yet to finish the Motor mounts... ITS IS BL**DY Hard!!!! Takes ages to grind it down with the dremel!

Your help and ideas would be much appreciated!!! THANKS

 

[Tominator06]

Nice work so far. Never thought of putting the motor up front like that. wonder how the weight will balance out. Front to back anyway.

 

[J1A1H]

Tom, This isnt the only chassis that moves the motor up front. The FLM Forward Mount TVP kit does it too. It works very well!.

A few things arrived in the post today... A little update...
Titanium turn buckles
Metal tie rod ends
Brake Linkage kit
Traxxas carbon wing
Hotbodies wing mount

After looking at how the wing and mount would fit, i was suddenly very worried about how much of my fibre glass body i was going to need to cut. I don't want to ruin my Rear GCM decal

So it got me :thinking: and i may use the wing mount and a second wing on my Basher Desert rat body (which is being painted at the moment... pics will be up end of the week) But for the time being i was thinking of directly mounting my Carbon wing to the Fibre glass body???? It may not take the biggest pounding but this is just my road body anyway....

What do you think??? I didnt realise how much of the body i was going to have to alter... and i REALLY don't want to do that.


Also i finally decided on mounting both steering and brake servo on the inside of the chassis. I will use a shorter alu servo horn for the steering so it doesnt come into contact with the motor, and i will use my long alu servo horn for the brake which gives enough clearence to mount my brake linkages perfectly...

As you can see in the pic below... The alu servo horn is located perfectly just outside the tvps for the brake linkage.

Ill try and get the brakes linkage mounted today....

 

[J1A1H]

a few lil updates...
When trying to fit my metal tie rod ends to my titainium turn buckles... i noticed that they would only screw on one end. I think this is due to the fact that one side of the turn buckle has a reverse thread which allows you to adjust them when fitted. So i am quite annoyed but live and learn... Ive got them fitted only on one side and platic rod end on the other... But what ever...

Started my brake linkage too but i don't have a long enough rod so will go to my LHS soon and pick one up... otherwise its coming together slowly...

After looking a little more at the Wing, i don't think i would be happy with it mounted to the body... so I'm going to wait for my PRC mount to turn up and take it from there... here is another pic... as you can see, it just doesnt look right...

 

[J1A1H]

So Another Update... I cant keep up with the postman!!! Anyway a few things arrived again today.....

Some Monster Energy Decals....
Turnigy Temp gun....
Orange Mesh Protector stuff (looks crazy and protects your wires... Cheap stuff too) From HobbyKing
HPI Rush Battery box

Enjoy the pics 8) :lol:

Fitted a couple decals to the body to brighten it up a bit... They are shiny :lol:

The mesh is great... it freys very easily but nothing a lighter cant fix.... Changes the internals of the truck by brightening it up and makes it clear where the wires are...

In order to get everything to fit nicely in the battery box which i am mounting at the front of the truck once my PRC Rush battery box mount comes. I had to cut a larger inlet for all the wires, and run the wires through the centre of the shock tower... THIS SHOULD BE FINE RIGHT????
My receiver is hidden in there with my Y harness for my ESC and Mechanical brakes including my Steering servo wires. It sits very tight against the body as you can see, but it should be fine.

 

[J1A1H]

I moved my ESC back under the roll bar yesterday as it will sit lower in the chassis and is better protected... I am going to have to do a little altering to the spur gear shroud but after that all should be good

Where i had previously had the ESC Mounted, i have now put a brace bar there just to strengthen everything up...

i never liked it being mounted so high and far forward....
I will be shrink tubing the ends of all the orange mesh next to give it a clean look and prevent it from threading...

 

[J1A1H]

ITS RUNNING!!!! WOOP WOOP!!! Had to alter the TVPs to fit the motor... But all done now.

Will get pics up later... I'm going to go test drive it!

 

[JoeGuam]

Videos, Videos, Videos......

 

[J1A1H]

Gave it a little test run to day just to see that the car is all lined up and everything... But ITS A BEAST!!!! I lost a wheel nut so that cut my session early.... The motor and esc is running quite hot... What sort of temps should i be reaching MAX... if its quite high i may have to gear a little lower.....
Vids coming soon... once i receive my new lock nuts...

I got these as guidelines... can you lot confirm them...

Max temps ( general guide lines ):

motor 180*F max, ideally 120-160*F
esc 160*F max, ideally 120-140*F
lipos 120-140*F max, ideally... less.

Also as a general rule:

hot motor + cool esc & batts = undergeared
cool motor + hot esc & batts = overgeared
warm everything = just right
hot everything ( or hot esc and motor since massive lipos take alot to heatup ) = way overgeared.

 

[JoeGuam]

Thats about right but I would keep the temps on the motor between 130-160. I run the Castle MMM for 45 mins WOT and I never get the motor higher than 155 and that is due to the opnion, spur gear, and battery combination. I have clocked my sons Brushless at 74 MPH. In addition I also check the slipper/clutch temps everytime which about 135-144 degree F.

 

[frddyj]

I never get the motor higher than 155 and that is due to the opnion, spur gear, and battery combination.

Joe can you please post your gear #'s?

thx
freddy

 

[JoeGuam]

Joe can you please post your gear #'s?

thx
freddy

Keep in mind that it is an E Revo Brushless with alot of upgrades. If I am not mistaken the gearing I that the truck is running is a 18 pinion 54 spur with (2) 3S 5250 MAX AMPS LIPOS continious for 45 mins. That seems to keep the temps under 155. For the top speed I ran a 24 pinion and 54 spur for approx 25 min continious at WOT. I stopped at 155 degree so I do not damage anything. Plus you can only do so many speed runs before you "lets go and bash the truck". Not sure what I had done with my truck log but I am confident that those were the E Revo brushless set up.

 

[J1A1H]

How bad is it that my fan on the MMM is on quite a lot of the time?
My setup is 21t pinion 44 spur, 39t High speed idler with a neu1520 1600kv motor.

I thought this is very reasonable gearing considering the torque of the motor. I should be running pretty cool compared to people running the the torq2200 with 20/44 and 39t high speed idler shouldnt i?

 

[Bankrupter]

That is over geared. Mine can get hot on 19/45 39T tranny, BP diffs... and its got to be allot lighter then yours ! EDIT : I read half that ... try it ...

 

[J1A1H]

people on rc monster are saying the same thing.

I am going to chuck a 17t clutch bell in there and see how the temps go....

If they are still high... i may have to throw out the high speed idler and re gear accordingly.

I thought this new motor would be able to handle the extra weight of this truck due to it being more efficient... Its only about an ounce over stock... this truck is lighter that someone running a stock flux with Big Joes! So its not that heavy!

Hopefully if my wheel nuts arrive.. i can run it this weekend and see what temps the car hits.

 

[J1A1H]

I thought i would work out the final possible weight of my truck with different combo wheels and batteries and bodies.
The weight in lbs are at the bottom.

Truck - no wheels, no shell, no batteries

Fibre glass body! SO HEAVY!

SPI Rims

HPI tires

Hyperion 6500mah 3s lipos

3700mah 3s lipos

For road:
Fibre Glass body 2.1lbs!!!!!!
Spi Rims 2.9lbs
6500mah hyperion batteries 2.5lbs!!!!!!!
Truck 9.5lbs
= 17lbs!!!!!!!! OH MY GOD! The batteries and the body are so heavy!!! Think i will just keep the body as a shelf queen!

Grass and bashing
Plastic body ??? not sure yet
HPI tires and proline rims 2.2lbs
3700mah batteries. 1.4lbs
Truck 9.5lbs
= a more respectable 13.1 lbs +plastic body

with the large batteries 2.5lbs
= 14.2lbs Those batteries are killing my weight! they better pay off by giving me great run times!

Without the fibreglass body and using the large batteries and lighter wheels the weight isnt too bad for such a large truck.

I doubt the fibreglass body is ever going to get any use now... keep it as a shelf queen

 

[J1A1H]

The weights on the scales are kg...
For such a large truck i think the weight it acceptable when running it as light as possible....

BUT i didnt realise how bad it would be if i fully loaded it!!!!! :shocked::shocked:

Pshhh :Meh: ill just gear it lower for around 50mph and make this extra long beast extremley torquey! :chainkiller:
:thinking:
don't really need top speed...