Piccions93
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Hi guys, i'd like to put a cooling mount on my savage flux xl, that runs the original Tork 2200 kv motor. Do you have any ideas on what is best to buy? Thank you!
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Hi, do you know some good cooling fan mount for the 2200 kv Tork motor?
- Thread starter Piccions93
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- Messages
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- Dekalb, IL 60115
Funny... I just came here looking for the same thing.
I mangled my hobbywing cooler but it doesn't sit right on the raised fins in the middle. Going to hack it up some more and probably drill holes in it so the air passes through it, but it still gives me a flat spot to mount the fan to. Since it has such little contact area on the fins, the best it can do is give me something to mount the fan on, so will see how that works. I have it in my stampede 4x4 with a blx185 powering it.
On my savage flux hp, I have a castle 2200kv motor in it and made a little mount next to the motor for a 30mm high velocity fan so it can at least push air around the motor some. It seems to help quite a bit. It was fine when I ran 4S, only got up to around 150F or so, but on 6S, it runs hotter more frequently. So between gearing and the fan it stays around 160F when pushed pretty hard.
Guessing you could make something similar for the Tork motor. It's just a piece of L aluminum with a crescent cut out to allow most of the fan to push air through.
I had to remove the leg off the esc holder and I put a piece of dense foam under it so it rests on top of the aluminum piece I made.
I put another one of those fans on top of my MMX esc instead of the one that came with it. These fans push a lot more air and I have them wired to the receiver so they are always running at 100%. Looks dumb, but keeps temps in check.
I find that the fans with alloy frames hold up to big air better. Plastic framed ones flex/crack and allow the blades to hit the sides or the top of the cage, then they die. I have yet to have one of these fans die on me. Just wish I could find a 25mm and 35mm version for other stuff.
I mangled my hobbywing cooler but it doesn't sit right on the raised fins in the middle. Going to hack it up some more and probably drill holes in it so the air passes through it, but it still gives me a flat spot to mount the fan to. Since it has such little contact area on the fins, the best it can do is give me something to mount the fan on, so will see how that works. I have it in my stampede 4x4 with a blx185 powering it.
On my savage flux hp, I have a castle 2200kv motor in it and made a little mount next to the motor for a 30mm high velocity fan so it can at least push air around the motor some. It seems to help quite a bit. It was fine when I ran 4S, only got up to around 150F or so, but on 6S, it runs hotter more frequently. So between gearing and the fan it stays around 160F when pushed pretty hard.
Guessing you could make something similar for the Tork motor. It's just a piece of L aluminum with a crescent cut out to allow most of the fan to push air through.
I had to remove the leg off the esc holder and I put a piece of dense foam under it so it rests on top of the aluminum piece I made.
I put another one of those fans on top of my MMX esc instead of the one that came with it. These fans push a lot more air and I have them wired to the receiver so they are always running at 100%. Looks dumb, but keeps temps in check.
I find that the fans with alloy frames hold up to big air better. Plastic framed ones flex/crack and allow the blades to hit the sides or the top of the cage, then they die. I have yet to have one of these fans die on me. Just wish I could find a 25mm and 35mm version for other stuff.
Somesay that a motor fan is just a band aid and adjusting gearing is the best way to reduce motor temps, but some motors do run hotter than others and some don't mind being hot. The Tork 2200kv has quite large 'fins' so unsure what external diam it actually is. Yeah Twin Tornado fans and mount work up to 42mm can and move a lot of air and produce a good drop in external can temp. I found that having a large gap between the fan and the motor case helps and use them on motors with no large fins and where internal air flow underneath the body shell is negligible. If the fan has a mount with fins then you need good surface contact with the motor casing to ensure heat transfer, a thermal pad helps, but the Tork prevents this with its large fins. A temp gun is useful to check actual temp. If it rises to >90 deg C really quickly then immediately changing gearing is probably best way. If temps are maintained at 80 deg C throughout run then you should be ok. The actual temp inside the motor will be higher than the casing, probably a few tens deg C higher. Very high temps can weaken the glue resulting in the magnet debonding from the rotor. Only happened to me on a small 380 sized motor which I ran on purpose to destruction. Other heat consequence is potential breakdown of the insualtion on the windings, which may result in a short. Magnets can lose magnetism at high temps resulting in higher rpm and more heat. Just monitor temps during run if you can. Ambient temp is another factor, as well as ground surface type, tyre grip and rotational mass. Aftermarket tyres and wheels are usually larger diameter and heavier than stock, which need more power, resulting in more heat so recommended to change gearing.
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- Messages
- 2,627
- Location
- Dekalb, IL 60115
Lack of air circulation is probably the main reason fans are helpful.
I recently cooked the motor in my outcast. With a fan, my temps would stay below 170F even after a hard run in the grass and the motor lasted me a year on 6S and previously 8 months on 4S. My fan died on me and I didn't know it. By the time I realized something was wrong, it had begun to cog on me really bad. I thought one of my motor wires came undone, so I pulled the lid and you could feel the heat pouring out of it. The external temp was 254F! After that, the magnets were done with almost no resistance when spinning the output shaft. I was surprised the epoxy/wrapping on the rotor didn't let go, but internally, the motor looked fine.
I've since replaced the single 50mm fan cooler with a dual 30mm fan cooler which I used 2 of those alloy fans I used on my savage above. Then if a fan dies, I still have one hopefully moving air.
I try to gear mine so they run less than 160F from "spirited" driving on 4S without fans. Since I had a fan on my outcast when I changed to 6S, I didn't know how hot it really got without a fan until the fan died. My tires are likely a big part of the heat, I run 3.8" trenchers.
I recently cooked the motor in my outcast. With a fan, my temps would stay below 170F even after a hard run in the grass and the motor lasted me a year on 6S and previously 8 months on 4S. My fan died on me and I didn't know it. By the time I realized something was wrong, it had begun to cog on me really bad. I thought one of my motor wires came undone, so I pulled the lid and you could feel the heat pouring out of it. The external temp was 254F! After that, the magnets were done with almost no resistance when spinning the output shaft. I was surprised the epoxy/wrapping on the rotor didn't let go, but internally, the motor looked fine.
I've since replaced the single 50mm fan cooler with a dual 30mm fan cooler which I used 2 of those alloy fans I used on my savage above. Then if a fan dies, I still have one hopefully moving air.
I try to gear mine so they run less than 160F from "spirited" driving on 4S without fans. Since I had a fan on my outcast when I changed to 6S, I didn't know how hot it really got without a fan until the fan died. My tires are likely a big part of the heat, I run 3.8" trenchers.
