hello, please help me out!!

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yeah i still have the front center driveshaft..looks like the grub screw fell outta the drive cup... that would be the problem with the front.... but it still would barely move.... how do i check this one way bearing?? and where do i find it in the tranny??

i have the tranny out and when i spin the spur counterclockwise both cups spin.....so it may be possible when it gets resistance on it, it just slips??
sorry for so many ?'s but you guys are helping tremendously!!!
 
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How well does the truck roll on it's own? I tightened the brakes too much once and my truck wouldn't move.

Probably not it, but it hasn't been mentioned so I thought I'd bring it up.

*
 
Good point whipnet. This brings to mind another thing. What is the trim on your throttle set to? If brakes are set too tight and throttle trim is turned down, the brakes would be engaged and truck will not go anywhere.

If that is ok. When you put the truck back together, roll it backwards. When you do this, the spur and Clutch bell should both roll with the truck. If the spur does not spin then we can troubleshoot the problem with the drive train. If both spur and clutch bell spin,we can go backwards from there. I am going to be out of town the rest of the week but here is my 2 cents. If in the drivetrain either the diffs or something inside the trany is broken. If its on the motor end, could the clutches be bad? Clutch springs not installed correctly, or the flywheel collet have broken or come loose? Probably not but you never know with these engines. Good luck troubleshooting and hope to see you up and running when I get back.

Sorry for the long post.
 
If you are missing the grub screw in the drive cup that would cause the problem. All the power is going to the least resistance which is that drive cup so the truck is barely going to move.
 
the one way bearing in the transmission is located in the center
set of gears in transmission

when you open the transmission remove the center set of gears
remove the clutch assembly and gear

behind that gear is the gear that spins on a one way

it should spin one way freely

although I'm not sure you'll be able to tell if its
slipping under strain.

Mine was locked up. would not turn either way

I would order it.
 
in the process of putting the truck together i ordered new diff cups and am searching for that bearing, so hopefully in a day or so ill be able to tell you guys the results... again i thank all of you for your helpfullness!!!!

ill definately be calling this site home in regards to my savage!

Trevor
 
Keithv said:
If you are missing the grub screw in the drive cup that would cause the problem. All the power is going to the least resistance which is that drive cup so the truck is barely going to move.
Click to expand...

I hate to disagree with you on that one. I was runnin my truck for a short bit yest. to work more on the tune of it and the grub screw came out of the drive cup attached to the pinion. All it did was send all the power to the rear which makes it almost uncontrolable. So, even if your only runnin rear wheel drive, it'll still take off on you. Everybody has already suggested everything that I could think of, I'll rack my brain somemore and see if there is anything else. It is possible that it could be the clutch springs. If the springs aren't strong enough, they won't hold the clutch shoes on the CB and cause slippage. Correct me if I'm wrong people, but that could be a possibility. Basically, the same situation if you run the Nove shoes with the stock HPI springs, it ain't gonna work to well. Also, welcome to the forum.
 
Lyinlo, do you have a stand or something you can prop the truck on? The reason i ask is, if you take off the left TVP (exhaust side) and run it, feathering the throttle you may be able to tell where your problem is. If it is not that obvious, add light to moderate resistance to the rear drive-shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers. This may at least help you isolate the area of concern. If it is strong and you cant really hold it back at all with the pliers, then the problem is at the rear.
 
First thing I do with a problem like this is check wheel hexes. Check inside the wheel and the hex on the truck. As extreme said if you loose power to the front the truck will still go like the clappers. Loose power to the rear and you barely go anywhere. I would put the truck on the ground with the engine removed. grab the spur with your hand and gently push the truck backwards. If you can push the truck backwards with out the tires sliding something is wrong. Look for where the drive shafts stop/start turning and you will find where your problem is. I'm guessing you may have blown your rear diff with the added strain from the front drive shaft coming loose.
 
ok guys ive got the truck all back together.. ive replaced all the cups with the heavy duty ones as they were worn bad. ive cleaned inspected the tranny, replaced all the grub screws, redid the slipper checked all the wheel hexes. lol so its gotta work!!! i put the truck on the ground held the spur rolled it backwards and the wheels just skidded (is that even a word??? lol)

so I'm hoping tomorrow ill get out and try it and see if its cured!! cross your fingers for me everyone and ill keep you posted on my results!
 
Maybe the brakes are locked up? When you put the screws in for the brake pads, you can't tighten them down all the way.
 
Lets all pray and hope he gets his truck running .. if you can Like I asked b 4 (now that you have the truck back together) maybe take a vid if you can
 
grrrr. woke up this am hoping to get a lil run out of it.. and to my delight lol its snowing out, ughhh i would take it out but with being a troubleshooting run id kinda like dry pavement to make sure its working.... oh well guess ill have to wait till tomorrow. since i gotta work afternoon shift..
ill hopefully beable to give you all insight on the situation tomorrow
 
well waited a bit today and couldnt wait. so i get the truck all moved out to the driveway where its snow free fuel it up put the glow ignitor on, give it a pullstart and........... snap goes the pullcord.. grrrrrrrrr so it was time to go to work, got my dad to pick me up a new pull cord and now got it all backtogether again!! so tomorrow morning is stillgonna be the test run, lol if it werent for bad luck i wouldnt have any luck at all!!!
 
WOOOOOOHOOOO its all working great again!!! thanks alot guys!!! must have been a combination of alot of things causing this problem!

I'm off to go rip it around right now 🙂
 
yeah I'm not sure the total cause... i mean the front drive cup was off, a couple of the hexes on the wheels were worn , redid the slipper, and put gold springs in the clutch...
ahh well I'm not worried about it now that its running 🙂 heheheh time to bash!!!!!!!!
 
Sounds like a winner man. I'd have to believe the problem was heavily related to the front differential loosing the cup. Along with many other factors. I did have something like that happen to my RC10 (even though it's differential is totally different then the savage) and it was my lag nut for the differential being loose.

Combination of a bad diff, maybe a tighter than needed clutch spring, worn out slipper pad, and other possibilities probably cause the problem.

The best thing is always start with the easiest repairs first. Such as the hex nuts and pins on the wheels, drive shafts, and the such. Then start looking into more problematic things, such as differentials and transmissions. Remember, a differential allocates power to wheels. So, if you turn a left side wheel on the front, the right one will turn the opposite direction. If that happens, the differential is working properly under a no stress situation. Now if you lock the other wheel from turning, it should turn the transmission and the rear differential should effectively try to turn the rear wheels. That's an EASY tip to checking the differentials for potential problems. Now, when it gets to be a transmission problem, it's usually best to consult the manual, and begin a tear down to find a busted part. A common problem is the one way that Crash earlier posted about. One ways have a tendancy to lock up when they are worn out, and that causes some wierd stuff to happen. I had many issues with the one way bearing in my RC10's pullstart.

So, take it one step at a time, and you're sure to find the cause. And with this, you can find a perfect resolution to the problem.


I'm glad to see you got it fixed though. Savages are so fun to play with, and they are pretty tough. But like any other RC, they do break eventually. And the repairs can be as fun as running them. 🙂

Have fun with it man, and welcome to the forum. It's a great bunch of people here, who are more than willing to help out; as you can see. Sorry I didn't get to post about your problem earlier, school for me has been tough since it's midterm time. 🙂 Have fun with it man!
 
I had the same problem when I put my axial motor in my savage . the problem was the collet that the flywheel sets on. It was spinning on the crankshaft. I put a little locktite on the inside and outside of the collet and have'nt had a problem since.
 
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