Got a new engine for my savage, LRP ZR.30

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Yeah, the only thing I have left is fuel. I'll probably just get some new fuel and try it with the tank that's in it.
 
dgadget_1 said:
Some engine modders offer break in service with and without modding your engine. I've never used it but in light of the op trouble. Just offering another option / opinion.
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I see. I've broken in 20+ engines and have never had the issues I'm currently having.
 
Doesn't sound like you did anything wrong, not that I'm qualified, but at some point the frustration experience has a toll. Wish I knew the answer I've never owned an LRP and just recently got spanked by one with my picco x. No excuses four runs and it owned all of em. Hope you get it sorted
 
btw he said the lrp was stock and my picco was ....:rolleyes: hand rubbed.
 
madgadget_1 said:
Doesn't sound like you did anything wrong, not that I'm qualified, but at some point the frustration experience has a toll. Wish I knew the answer I've never owned an LRP and just recently got spanked by one with my picco x. No excuses four runs and it owned all of em. Hope you get it sorted
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Frustrating doesn't begin to cover where I'm at with this thing. At first, I thought it was the LRP28 (which I have had 4 of, currently still running 2 of them) that was just being a pain for no reason. So, I dropped the $ on a 30 hoping to leave the issues behind me only to have an expensive continuation of my problems.

Honestly, in my savage, the LRP28 has had issues since the install. Way back then, I was running byron fuel. I replaced the bearings, resealed the engine, replaced the lines... which is why I went back to the stock tank, then a new tank thinking the old stocker was gummed up and now the new engine. The only thing left I have to contribute the issues to is the fuel as I've been running odonnells for the past 3 gallons of my running (from the same LHS that's 1 hour away). It hasn't done well in the LRP28 in my revo or the 21TM in my other revo. But I'm unable to buy anything else locally. The revo is quite a bit lighter, so I'm guessing my lack of overheating can be attributed to that. My savage rolls very easy, but it is heavier.

First I'll try new fuel in the 30 and see how that goes. If it's still iffy, I'll try the spare ofna tank I have. I'll have limited time to run anything this year and was hoping every run wasn't going to be a total pain in the butt.
 
these challenges validate the stigma associated with running nitro. Which brings me back to my original question regarding break in service. New doesn't guarantee good in anything. If the needle is changing that much you'd think it's sucking air somewhere. Nothing wrong with odonnells, I use it more than anything else. However during break in and in these midwest winters I run 30% heli to keep the bearings happy. Giving hindsight advice is not why I come here so lets get this figured out. That lrp I raced took a benjamin of rc budget plus bragging rights so it ain't over!
Of course an all alloy 3.5 jato was top dog of the day my nephew is still under the traxxas spell.
 
I get what your saying. I did seal it up tight with RTV. When I get new fuel, I'll take a can of compressed air with me so when I get it running and up to temp, I can spray air all over/around the engine to see if I hear a pitch change indicating a leak. When it was running, I didn't see any oil sepage anywhere.

I ran nearly 2 gallons of odonnells last year. The LRP28 in my revo ran about 10-20F hotter than with byrons. That said, I'm not saying odonnells in general is bad, I'm just saying the 2 gallons I currently have may have been sitting on a shelf for years at the LHS I bought it from since they deal primarily with paint ball and electric rc's.

I found a shop about 30 minutes from where I work that does carry the byrons 2500 fuel I usually run, so I'll get some this week and hopefully get some more fuel through the engine this weekend. I may also change the plug as it's running the LRP OEM R5 (medium-cold) plug. I usually run an odonnells purple (medium).

I'll try the fuel first, then the plug, then if need be, the 125cc tank.

All 5 of the LRP28's I've had were annoying for the first gallon, then they settled down and really started to lay the power. That said, I never had one hit 318F, so this is a new issue.
 
I lied... I couldn't stop myself from removing the HPI tank and putting on the new 125cc OFNA tank I had on hand. Supposed to rain all day tomorrow, so hoping I can try things out again on Sunday.

2016-0603-SavageX-OFNA19076TankOnly.jpg

2016-0603-SavageX-OFNA19076Tank.jpg


Yay... 8 minute run times again. Probably worse now with the 30.
 
Ran about 1000cc's through it yesterday. First couple of tanks were unpleasant, but after I got the tune right and change the glow plug... the thing was an animal. Busted my rear center cvd pin twice. Both times when it shifted into second gear. A front wheel drive savage isn't much fun. By the time I came home, I was running around 210F consistently and I installed the primer bulb back in it. It was running pretty good, but I wanted to try one of the medium plugs I usually run in the 28 and it made things even better.

I had an instance where it wouldn't open up without leaning out and stalling. Found that my fuel line was being pinched by the bumper holder as I lost the big plastic c-clip that holds it in place. The line got down by the holder and when I hit a wheelie, it pushed the holder back in and pinched the line on me. Also, got a big rock jammed in between the spur and tvp. Was clipping along in 2nd gear and all of the sudden, it just stalled. I was afraid the engine grenaded on me. Just a stupid rock. Fired right back up afterward. Other than that, the pinched line and the cvd, it was a good 3 hours. Finally.
 
olds97_lss said:
Finally found time to run more fuel through the 30... what an abysmal day. To recap, engine has around 1500cc's through it, new HPI savage X tank, new fuel lines, sealed engine.

Starting was a pain. Once it finally fired up, it was so pig rich from previously running ok that it couldn't hardly move. I had to lean the HSN almost a full turn after trying to get it to warm up. Then it seemed ok, but still had a rich bog at WOT. Tank 1 today was a pain. Lots of stalling, weird exhaust note, bad performance... and it just got worse. By the time I finished off 500cc's of fuel, I had reset the engine back to factory 3 times and had to richen both the LSN/HSN at least one full turn due to seeing temps north of 300F. I ended up with it very rich and running like crap, then the tank was almost empty and it stalled, then I threw it in my car and came home before I set fire to it.

I'm ditching the HPI tank... not sure what I'm going to use in it's place, but probably an OFNA 125cc tank I found that is close to the shape of the old OFNA 125cc tank I had. I have a feeling ti is either the damn tank, or my fuel. THe fuel is fairly new, but the LHS I got it at doesn't seem to have a high throughput of nitro rigs and/or fuel. Luckilly, I have 2 gallons of it... lol. Probably goign to just bite the bullet and order 4 gallons of byrons 2500 that I've used for years from amain for $160.

I knew I should have just stayed home...
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What percent fuel you using?
 
Ive ran the stock tank on my xl and 25 forever.....never had a problem with them except for the normal "half tank lean"....that can be fixed by simply drilling a hole at the bottom and installing a outlet... Sounds to me like you're getting air.....or either your fuel is bad..
 
Biggmemphis said:
Ive ran the stock tank on my xl and 25 forever.....never had a problem with them except for the normal "half tank lean"....that can be fixed by simply drilling a hole at the bottom and installing a outlet... Sounds to me like you're getting air.....or either your fuel is bad..
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Yeah, I don't know. I have had 3 or 4 savages over the years and hated how inconsistent the tune was with the stock tanks. So I always ended up just throwing a 125cc buggy tank on them which seems to solve 99% of my tuning issues.
 
Thanks for the info guys! I'm new here and i run an hpi savage XL have an lrp 30x with pull start installed on its way now. Anxious for its arrival tho. So far ive read up on it here and sounds like a great motor!
 
olds97_lss said:
Yeah, I don't know. I have had 3 or 4 savages over the years and hated how inconsistent the tune was with the stock tanks. So I always ended up just throwing a 125cc buggy tank on them which seems to solve 99% of my tuning issues.
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What tank did you buy @olds97_lss ? Now that I'm getting my savage running I'm experiencing half tank lean and was about to research what I could do to counteract it.
 
Sounds like this issue is due to the amount of back pressure from exhaust effecting flow of fuel. I'm rather new to the nitro thing just throwing the thought out there
 
So can any one of you guys help me with a good ratio to run on my XL with and lrp .30? I want something thats gonna pull the front end up for wheelie action so good amount of power off the line and good speed. Also want to be nice to this motor so a ratio that gives me power and speed as well as something smooth thats not going to really overwork the motor too much. I will be running byrons gen2 20% 16% caster. I was running torco 20% with 14% but for some reason the majority of my trucks like the byrons except for my mgt 8.0 it likes the torco,
 
Biggmemphis said:
Ive ran the stock tank on my xl and 25 forever.....never had a problem with them except for the normal "half tank lean"....that can be fixed by simply drilling a hole at the bottom and installing a outlet... Sounds to me like you're getting air.....or either your fuel is bad..
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Where do you drill the hole and install an outlet?
 
I still don't think drilling a hole and bypassing the stone filter is a good idea. I use the troublesome extra loop method, and while it sets my CDO (just like OCD except it's alphabetically correct) On fire, it helps. Doing an actual mid-tank might help, but I haven't. So I can't say.
 
Rooky said:
I still don't think drilling a hole and bypassing the stone filter is a good idea. I use the troublesome extra loop method, and while it sets my CDO (just like OCD except it's alphabetically correct) On fire, it helps. Doing an actual mid-tank might help, but I haven't. So I can't say.
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What is your recomended fuel and plug to use on an lrp zr30x?
 
Derekpike said:
Got my OFNA tank in yesterday. Can you post a better picture of how you mounted yours @olds97_lss? I have a few ideas floating around in my head, but never hurts to have a good starting point from someone who has already done it.
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Not sure what else you need:
2016-0603-SavageX-OFNA19076TankOnly.jpg


For the front mount, I used a 4 or 5mm bolt that was long and only had threads on half for the throttle arm to pivot on. I drilled out the throttle pivot mount so the bolt would go through entirely without splitting it. Then I drilled on the front hole on the tank to be large enough for the bolt and fuel tubing around the bolt for shock absorption. a bolt, washer, fuel tubing, and locknut. For the rear, I took a piece of 5/16 round bar and made an L bracket, used a 3mm bolt/nut/wash through the rear flange of the tank for shock absorption again and used a previously made hole through the TVP to tie the L bar to the chassis.
 
olds97_lss said:
Not sure what else you need:
2016-0603-SavageX-OFNA19076TankOnly.jpg


For the front mount, I used a 4 or 5mm bolt that was long and only had threads on half for the throttle arm to pivot on. I drilled out the throttle pivot mount so the bolt would go through entirely without splitting it. Then I drilled on the front hole on the tank to be large enough for the bolt and fuel tubing around the bolt for shock absorption. a bolt, washer, fuel tubing, and locknut. For the rear, I took a piece of 5/16 round bar and made an L bracket, used a 3mm bolt/nut/wash through the rear flange of the tank for shock absorption again and used a previously made hole through the TVP to tie the L bar to the chassis.
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Very nice! Looks clean. I been goin thru it with this lrp zr30x motor. I just cant seem to get it tuned.. any suggestions?
 
Mine ran like crap with the stock tank and odonnel fuel. Now that I'm using the OFNA tank and byrons fuel, it's a night and day difference as far as stable is concerned.

How much fuel is through your engine? What fuel are you using (brand, nitro %/, oil %)? What tank, tires and gearing? 3 speed or 2 speed?
 
olds97_lss said:
Mine ran like crap with the stock tank and odonnel fuel. Now that I'm using the OFNA tank and byrons fuel, it's a night and day difference as far as stable is concerned.

How much fuel is through your engine? What fuel are you using (brand, nitro %/, oil %)? What tank, tires and gearing? 3 speed or 2 speed?
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Well I'm running the stock tank its a 3 speed xl and I'm running byrons 30% and 16% caster with an os8 plug. Yesterday i couldnt even get it to accelerate with out it loading up and dieying let alone get to idle without the glow ignitor. Now I'm getting it to run but its got no speed just alot of low end torque. No matter how much i richen or lean it i cant seem to find the sweet spot. Once i start leaning it then it bogs down i fatn it up and i get alittle speed but not much. Just seems to me its definately a tuning issue and ive read on other forums the lrp or manuel on this motor stock setting where way off but i cant seem to find anyone with sum helpful tuning settings for this motor. Have you or do you know anyone that has or had the lrp zr30x motor?
 
Climate and altitude play a large part in tuning as well. How old is your fuel? And how does the plug look? Almost sounds like a fuel delivery problem.
 
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