engine does not get rich even open 6 turns

[jawad]

hi team HPI,
I recently bought trophy 3.5..I start it..drove some circles in normal speed..but it gets hot soon and often engine stops..fuel lining is perfect..tank is perfect ..thrs no leakage of any thing..kindly brief high and low needle settngs ..iam.using rapicon fuel 20%..iam realy dipresed ..buying a new bugy and when it does not run normal thn oys a waste of money.plz resolve my problem and explain in detail..

 

[Jam Racing 1]

You should never have to open the high speed needle more than 3 turns maximum, if the engine is getting hot after a couple of minutes of running then there has to be another reason, an air leak possibly, or are you sure you are adjusting the correct needle, so start by going back to factory settings on all the needles and reset the idle gap to spec and start fresh making small adjustments on the high speed needle ONLY!!!!!
after you have it running halfway right then run it in small circles on the ground near your position so you can grab it if it starts trying to get away......

remember when tuning make small adjustments at a time, think of the housing as a clock face and make 1 hour adjustments either richer or leaner as you go along....

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/the-complete-beginners-guide-to-rcs.814/

Read thru that thread I linked a few times to become familiar with the needle settings and what they do...

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/nitro-engine-sealing.15150/

This is a complete guide to assist you in how to properly seal up an air leaking engine...

 

[olds97_lss]

3 full rotations or 3 half turns?

Looking at the manual for that, it's saying 2.5 turns from flush with the housing is as lean as you should go, so guessing flush is fairly rich. If your backing the needle out further than flush, then you have an air leak somewhere.

I'd pull the engine, tear it down and seal it up. While tearing down, keep an eye for any screws that are loose. Could be your HSN banjo fitting is loose, carb isn't seated properly and/or the cinch bolt is loose, head screws are loose, or backplate screws causing it to run lean on you by sucking air from places it's not supposed to. Even still, tear it down, seal it up as noted in the above link, let it cure overnight, then give it a try. At the very least, you will rule things out.

Also, when taking the needles out of the carb, look at the o-rings for tears.

 

[Grumpy1822]

Sounds like the orings on the needles are dry or bad.

 

[Rmadrid7]

3 full rotations or 3 half turns?

Looking at the manual for that, it's saying 2.5 turns from flush with the housing is as lean as you should go, so guessing flush is fairly rich. If your backing the needle out further than flush, then you have an air leak somewhere.

I'd pull the engine, tear it down and seal it up. While tearing down, keep an eye for any screws that are loose. Could be your HSN banjo fitting is loose, carb isn't seated properly and/or the cinch bolt is loose, head screws are loose, or backplate screws causing it to run lean on you by sucking air from places it's not supposed to. Even still, tear it down, seal it up as noted in the above link, let it cure overnight, then give it a try. At the very least, you will rule things out.

Also, when taking the needles out of the carb, look at the o-rings for tears.

Question: What are you using for seal the engine?

 

[Rooky]

Silicone gasket sealer.

 

[Rmadrid7]

Thanks Rooky!!! i will looking for that too.

 

[Jam Racing 1]

use that stuff. it is best for all RC uses.....

 

[Rmadrid7]

Thanks Jam... I just saw it on eBay. $6 bucks.. not bad

 

[Rooky]

You can get it anywhere. Walmart any auto parts store...

 

[olds97_lss]

use that stuff. it is best for all RC uses.....

Yep, that's what I use. Sensor safe/high temp. There are many others out there, but the sensor safe/high temp is what you want. The non-sensor safe emits fumes which corrode the internals. Also, the high temp version is needed so it doesn't breakdown at 200F+.