Big Bore Shocks limiting suspension travel??

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abigroot

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5
Hello all, first time poster long time lurker. I have a question for the experts here. I am piecing together an "ebay" flux (for lack of a better term). So far I have everything I am going to be needing to make this happen, but I ran into a problem with limited suspension travel in the front. I have the TCS 5mm TVP's and Fast Lane Bulkheads. Coming out from the Bulks are RPM arms (upper i the 0 degree arm for right now). I am running the Integy (they were available and cheap) blocks and knuckles and the steering linkage is from Lunsford and the shocks are the Big Bore savage shocks. Problem I am having is that the lunsford rod ends and ball studs seem to be binding and not allowing the suspension past half downward travel. Am I missing something here?? I have both ball studs on the underside of everything (Knuckle and linkage arm) but it will not allow the arms to droop to full down travel?
 
welcome Root.

can you post pics? you have a very detailed description but i need to see.

sound like a kool build.

:hpisfgreen:
 
Here are the pictures. one is of the front suspension, and the other is of the rear. Kinda puzzled here as yo why it is binding so bad.

2010-04-06-162400.jpg


2010-04-06-162349.jpg
 
I don't think it's the A-Arms. I filed them down a bit because of tightness issues with the Fastlane Bulkheads. Without the steering linkage connected, I get full droop. Without the steering linkage or shock connected, the movement is super smooth.
 
my turnbuckles go under the ackerman over the carrier
 
its the lunsfords I have seen many buy and not use that stuff on the savage. I just keep my turnbuckles stock. How is the HPI bell cranks working with that bulk too ? No issues with them hitting ?
 
i think i see the problem. is the tierod end hitting the upright in the area circled in red?
2010-04-06-162349.jpg


if it is you could remove very carefully some of the material from the rod end.

oh and since this is your first thread welcome to hpisf
 
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i think i see the problem. is the tierod end hitting the upright in the area circled in red?

if it is you could remove very carefully some of the material from the rod end.


i think thats why you install the ball-screw from the top of the carrier and not the bottom.
 
All good suggestions and I will try to answer in turn. As I said, I filed off some material on the RPM A-Arms where they attach to the bulkheads and without the shocks or turnbuckle attached, everything moves free and easy. connecting the shocks, I still get free and full movement. If i were to install the ball stud on top of the carrier, I get more movement....but the wrong movement. The knuckle sees some massive toe out when the suspension compresses...the further it compresses, the worse the toe out becomes. I will try to take some material off of the rod end as Mickey suggested. Heck, if that doesn't work, I still have the rear rod ends that come in the package from lunsford. I was also inclined to try and machine up a "vertical" link holder utilizing the existing holes, which are "horizontal" right now (think "L" bracket") and see what that does as well. But Freddy, I tried as you suggested, "my turnbuckles go under the ackerman over the carrier", but that really effects the toe setting when the suspension compresses. Let me ry to remove some of the rod end material and machine up a "L" bracket roughly to see what that does as well. I will post pictures as I progress.
 
You are having issues with the mis-alignment spacer - I don't have those ends, but it looks like the ball is not spaced far enough from the arm - and at droop it hits. You can either space it downward with washers between the ball and arm (not recommended - will cause bump-steer issues, etc) or flip the ball to the top of the arm.

NICE build by the way!

Hope this helps,

Bob
 
OK, I found my answer...Thank you all. It appeared that the rod end was actually hitting the "collar" on the ball stud...see the picture...I cut the "collar" down flush with the shoulder and sure enough I have drastically improved my suspension travel. I went one step further and tapered the rod end opening (where the ball stud slips in) and that helped as well. I think I have the articulation I was searching for.

2144590c.jpg


f33bc621.jpg
[/IMG]

It is still making SOME contact on the rod end (see below) and I could "clearance" the rod end if I need to. but for now....lets get this thing running!!!

a030fc25.jpg
 
OK, I found my answer...Thank you all. It appeared that the rod end was actually hitting the "collar" on the ball stud...see the picture...I cut the "collar" down flush with the shoulder and sure enough I have drastically improved my suspension travel. I went one step further and tapered the rod end opening (where the ball stud slips in) and that helped as well. I think I have the articulation I was searching for.

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq129/abigroot/2144590c.jpg

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq129/abigroot/f33bc621.jpg

It is still making SOME contact on the rod end (see below) and I could "clearance" the rod end if I need to. but for now....lets get this thing running!!!

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq129/abigroot/a030fc25.jpg

I see your problem you need to put the tie rod on the top of the carrier vise the bottom and the ball having the space downward toward the carrier
 
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looks like the problem is solved... just want to say welcome and very nice build!
 
You have it right. (With the rsc it goes on top.) Mickey i think is right about the issue. I would not cut the plastic on the tie rod though. Try grinding the alum arm a bit to round it out on the edges and maybe add a washer or two to shim the ballstud down a bit.

take a close look at the ackerman link as that will hit the back of the bulkhead and needs to be replace with the flm one.
 

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