Basher to racer in two weeks.

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Pope

Pope

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,442
Location
Columbus Ohio
I have two weeks to turn my savage into a racer.

What i have.

XL diffs outdrives and dogbones.

What is on the way.

XL axles decided to go extended for extra stablity
RSC Thanks again HPISF
17mm hex set (Mine were 23mm)

What I need.

Truggy tires for clay track
Big Bore shocks

Did I miss anything?
 
What do you plan to run for diff oil. I would think something like 3-5K front and 5-7K rear, making sure its silicon oil.

Shave as much weight as possible and run decent quick servos.

Also its always nice to run a 2.4 ghz or surfing radio so you don't need to worry about interference.
 
I don't want to have to pit for fuel in the 15min mains though.
 
My thought is keep the tank just don't fill the tank up all the way.
 
Pope...here is my race setup...basic setup anyways.

4 shocks...1 on each corner.....OR 4 on the rear, 2 up front but I used some on road springs also to stiffen it up when it compresses.

Run some decent tires also...personally I use the mulchers.

For off-road racing I keep a 16-17/47t setup.

besides that.....PRACTICE
 
My personal opinion for tires is Proline LRP Crime Fighters or Caliber for a medium dense soil and for a hard pack something like proline LRP Revolver or Hole shots. If its a loose surface then Badlands or Melcher's.

Also like Parker stated it mostly comes down to 75% Experience and 25% setup at least on a savage.
 
Thanks Jason I would love to get your tvp's what is the weight of them compared to the ext flm ones.
 
Larsenracing said:
What do you plan to run for diff oil. I would think something like 3-5K front and 5-7K rear, making sure its silicon oil..
Click to expand...

I actually run 8-10K in the front, and 1-5K in the rear. It is better for the front to pull the truck more than the rear push it.
 
clemet said:
I actually run 8-10K in the front, and 1-5K in the rear. It is better for the front to pull the truck more than the rear push it.
Click to expand...

Might be a stupid question and I was trying to search some older posts the other day, but here goes.
With thicker fluid in the front I would think that it would push more than pull since the fluid is thicker and turn less(because of the extra resistance)??

I dunno, if anyone could shed some light cornfused
Thanks
 
Thicker fluid acts like tighting a ball diff. It enables one wheel to loose traction and still keep some power to the one with traction.
 
The Pope NJ said:
Thicker fluid acts like tighting a ball diff. It enables one wheel to loose traction and still keep some power to the one with traction.
Click to expand...

ok so it's for side to side traction in the same diff, not sure why I would think it slows the whole diff down. Now see how thicker fluid in the front would pull it more.

Thanks Alex!
 
texasavage said:
ok so it's for side to side traction in the same diff, not sure why I would think it slows the whole diff down. Now see how thicker fluid in the front would pull it more.

Thanks Alex!
Click to expand...

No problem man just learned my self a few weeks ago.
 
The Pope NJ said:
Thicker fluid acts like tighting a ball diff. It enables one wheel to loose traction and still keep some power to the one with traction.
Click to expand...


do you mean the thicker fluid allows the tire with less traction to gain more traction?

10k diff oil prevents that one tire on front & rear tire from unloading under the power of my mod mills. (evened them out)
 
frddyj said:
do you mean the thicker fluid allows the tire with less traction to gain more traction?

10k diff oil prevents that one tire on front & rear tire from unloading under the power of my mod mills. (evened them out)
Click to expand...

What I am saying is that like as you enter a turn your inside front wheel tends to lift up. Thicker fluid will keep that wheel from unloading all the power when it lifts up. It keeps some power to the other wheel that is still on the ground. Granted the wheel lifting up entirely is the worst case most of the time it just has very little weight on it but even then with thin fluid that wheel would just unload.

Here is a pic of my tire unloading in a slide.
DSCN0872.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The Pope NJ said:
What I am saying is that like as you enter a turn your inside front wheel tends to lift up. Thicker fluid will keep that wheel from unloading all the power when it lifts up. It keeps some power to the other wheel that is still on the ground. Granted the wheel lifting up entirely is the worst case most of the time it just has very little weight on it but even then with thin fluid that wheel would just unload.

Here is a pic of my tire unloading in a slide.
Click to expand...


ok, yep i agree, was a little confusing when i first read (could be from lack-o-sleep)

& btw, i love that pic Alex
 
i don't know any thing about racing .. but logical thinking is lose as much weight as possible .. sweet electronics . fast servos ect. like was mentioned and i think maybe softer springs for better cornering? ...get pics of the before and after for all us picture feins...
 
Doh forgot they made softer springs just ordered green ones for the back. Leaving black up front as I will only have one stock shock on each wheel.
 
The Pope NJ said:
What I am saying is that like as you enter a turn your inside front wheel tends to lift up. Thicker fluid will keep that wheel from unloading all the power when it lifts up. It keeps some power to the other wheel that is still on the ground. Granted the wheel lifting up entirely is the worst case most of the time it just has very little weight on it but even then with thin fluid that wheel would just unload.

Here is a pic of my tire unloading in a slide.
DSCN0872.jpg
Click to expand...

Perfect pic Alex and the unload explanation. Now with true sways it would help push that tire back down. Well in real time not let it lift that much. I like 20K front and up to 10 K rear for my driving style. Also depends on surfaces and tire choice. all variables
 
went and ordered all the stuff for the sway bars will be here friday. Now I just need to get diff oil. I should start on the build sunday night If I go bashing sunday. If bashing falls through than friday night. No big bores but I will make it work. Radio gear will have to wait a while too.
 
well that was nce read, ok sway bars will help you out alot, i run 50k front and 30k rear on a firm solid surface and 30k front and 15k rear on the loose dusty stuff so as the front wheel pull the truck around a corner and the rear wheels do all the work in a straight line, lower the ride as to keep the a arms flat and get the shock oils right for you track, change oils, open the piston holes, only ever change one thing at a time as its hard enough t work out what does what each run lol, good luck and let it rip and remember slower and on your wheels is better than faster and on your lid.......
 
savagesam said:
well that was nce read, ok sway bars will help you out alot, i run 50k front and 30k rear on a firm solid surface and 30k front and 15k rear on the loose dusty stuff so as the front wheel pull the truck around a corner and the rear wheels do all the work in a straight line, lower the ride as to keep the a arms flat and get the shock oils right for you track, change oils, open the piston holes, only ever change one thing at a time as its hard enough t work out what does what each run lol, good luck and let it rip and remember slower and on your wheels is better than faster and on your lid.......
Click to expand...


+ rep for sharing expert race advice with alex :resp:
 
Thank you Sam. Great idea about the piston holes. All these ideas are coming together good I can't wait to get this thing on the track. Only problem I have is I need a transponder to race.
 
Need a trasponder? They don't provide you one? I know every track I have gone to they have the transponders that you use for the race, return if after your race so the next heat can use them.
 
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