just at a loss

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R

racerb

Member
Messages
15
Location
Kamloops B.C. Canada
Hey all,well I am just at a loss, I picked up a used savage, that started when I bought it... It was in serious need of tunning and a couple little other clutch issues,when I bought it which is why I got it for a decent price, I am not new to rc but am new to nitro.... I cannot for the life of me get the truck to start, I have done all the check that need to be done, but it doesn't seem to be getting fuel into the head..... If I prime it by sticking my finger over the exhaust and pulling on the pullstart it eventually gets fuel but the fuel does not spray out but will run out of the line..... I am about 95% sure my tank is all good.. the only thing I have not done is immerse it in water.... I can blow into the exhaust line and get fuel spray good, so this is how I tried to prime it.... still nothing, I put in brand new plug, all batteries (igniter etc) fully charged..... What I have also done is return all needles back to flush in an attempt to start fresh, and tune on my own.....
here is one question thou.....is it maybe not getting all the pressure it needs because the pull start is maybe not working 100%?? I switched to rotor start and it maybe seems like it possibly missing a little... maybe not full stroke?? (I am just grasping at anything here guy's) not enough pressure squirting fuel in???? could this also maybe a result in the one way bearing not working 100%

well I have wanted one of these since they came out but could not afford one, but now I am thinking I maybe should just give up... but I reall don't want to... so help me please!!!!

P.S sorry all it is a K4.6 motor, just in case that matters to anyone suggesting...........

oh and another quickie as well, I had to re-do clutch, there in a bearing on the outer and inner of the c.b. but when I got to tighten everything on I can still see the shoes between the flywheel and bottom of clutch bell.... there is no shims inbetween the nut holding the flywheel on and the inner bearing on the C.B. ....... so is it possibly something underneath the fly that is messed... when I spin the C.B. it spims nice and free, I also replace with alluminum cluth shoes and there is some things that look like set screws that go into them... is this for a differnt set-up/ truck or what do I do with them..... oh the biggest issue with the cluth bell sticking so far out is that the edge of it can rub on the brake disks... I was told something about and old 5/10 bearing and using it as a shim or something rather than the brass bushing.... does this go under the flywheel... or does anyone have a clue what I am talking about??

thanx to anyone that can maje any sense out of any of this... I am deperate!!!!
 
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welcome to hpisf

if your one way is slipping it will be a pain to start . watch your flywheel as you try starting it this will allow you to see if the motor is turning over. as for the clutchthere should be a shim brass or such between the screw at the end of the crank and the clutchbell that hold the bell against the flywheel collet . is it possible that you could post some pics of the clutch area?
 
yep also the nitro will not spray out the line. It just runs out. all sounds normal there. is your clutch bell free? it should spin with no resistance.
 
First of all , welcome to the forum! You have come to the right place to help you get her started. Lot of good people here who will give you great advice. Nitro's can be frustrating, but are a lot of fun once you get them figured out. Initially lean out the HSN (turn clockwise), about 3/4's of a turn then try to start.

Check the tank cap and make sure it is sealing good.

Pics of the CB setup would help to see whats going on with that. Good luck and keep asking those questions.
 
welcome to the forum racerrb. looks like you already have the attention of 3 members that can really help you out.

once you get past these few issues (learning curve) you'll be helpin the next guy :rockout:
 
ok all thank you very much for the replies.... I will post pics a little later today... I just gotta take my son to hockey...... thank you again and please check back later for pics....
 
As a new person myself to nitro, I feel your pain.
You will get some good help here!

One thing I wanted to throw out..
I didnt notice where your from, so if your in the colder parts of this world, then a cold engine could be part of the issue.

I just wanted to throw it out there since thats one thing that got me. Warm it up a bit with heat gun or hair dryer.

Rob
 
first off welcome to the forum!! secondly don't get to discouraged all the help you will ever need is right here at the forum and once you get it all dialed in there will be no looking back!!!!
 
racerb said:
Hey all,well I am just at a loss, I picked up a used savage, that started when I bought it... It was in serious need of tunning and a couple little other clutch issues,when I bought it which is why I got it for a decent price, I am not new to rc but am new to nitro.... I cannot for the life of me get the truck to start, I have done all the check that need to be done, but it doesn't seem to be getting fuel into the head..... If I prime it by sticking my finger over the exhaust and pulling on the pullstart it eventually gets fuel but the fuel does not spray out but will run out of the line..... I am about 95% sure my tank is all good.. the only thing I have not done is immerse it in water.... I can blow into the exhaust line and get fuel spray good, so this is how I tried to prime it.... still nothing, I put in brand new plug, all batteries (igniter etc) fully charged..... What I have also done is return all needles back to flush in an attempt to start fresh, and tune on my own.....
here is one question thou.....is it maybe not getting all the pressure it needs because the pull start is maybe not working 100%?? I switched to rotor start and it maybe seems like it possibly missing a little... maybe not full stroke?? (I am just grasping at anything here guy's) not enough pressure squirting fuel in???? could this also maybe a result in the one way bearing not working 100%

well I have wanted one of these since they came out but could not afford one, but now I am thinking I maybe should just give up... but I reall don't want to... so help me please!!!!

P.S sorry all it is a K4.6 motor, just in case that matters to anyone suggesting...........

oh and another quickie as well, I had to re-do clutch, there in a bearing on the outer and inner of the c.b. but when I got to tighten everything on I can still see the shoes between the flywheel and bottom of clutch bell.... there is no shims inbetween the nut holding the flywheel on and the inner bearing on the C.B. ....... so is it possibly something underneath the fly that is messed... when I spin the C.B. it spims nice and free, I also replace with alluminum cluth shoes and there is some things that look like set screws that go into them... is this for a differnt set-up/ truck or what do I do with them..... oh the biggest issue with the cluth bell sticking so far out is that the edge of it can rub on the brake disks... I was told something about and old 5/10 bearing and using it as a shim or something rather than the brass bushing.... does this go under the flywheel... or does anyone have a clue what I am talking about??

thanx to anyone that can maje any sense out of any of this... I am deperate!!!!
Click to expand...

ugh, that sucks 🙁 Sorry I couldn't help... I would if I could :resp: Good luck 🙂
 
ok

ok so here we go again, yes you are right it has been a little cold when trying to start... my biggest worry is that I messed with the needle below the HSN... after I did that I read instructions and it said not to touch this needle... ya I was swearing a little at myself for not reading EVERYTHING b4 I touched it.... anyway the previous owner had already touched it so I am not 100% at fault... yet

now for some pics, and I am sorry for talking about a clutch in the engine tunning thread please go ez on me mods.....
2s1lls2.jpg

2h5p30j.jpg

28iw5fs.jpg

9i9548.jpg

20g1lix.jpg

2dt0u4x.jpg


ok hope that helps..... so I got the alluminum clutch shoes in a package unopened with the truck, they came with a set of gold springs, and siver springs,I put 2 silver and one gold... is this ok?? also there is some things that look like set screws and Isee the holes where they go into the shoes... should I have put them in or is this for another type of clutch??? I also read somewhere that I should put a washer or shim under the aluminum clutch shoes?? is this correct.... let me know if maybe too much gap between flywheel and engine casing.... oh and as you can see on the C.B. the brakes rubbed on it and it has completely mushroomed 2 sets of brakes... honestly if this happened when I had it it deffinetly would have only went through the first set and I woulda done something about it:drunk:

thanx again for the help
 
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Have you taken out the CB bearings and check to see if there is a shim between the bearing and the CB? I think the CB should be sitting a little closer to the flywheel, and I am sure some smart guys will post up on more things to check. I would recommend you change out those CB bearings since the ones in the pics looks bad.

I also recommend you get the OFNA CB shim kit. You should be able to get it at your LHS for about 5 or 6 dollars. the front of your CB looks hack no disrespect intended, just couldn't think of a better word... :resp:
 
what nut do you have on there? this is the one that i use hpi piolot nut.. it looks like the nut is sticking out past the shoes and the shoes are not seated all the way. with the cb sticking that far out it's going to keep rubbing on your brakes and probly doesn't sit even on the spur gear either. yes you should have washers between the shoes and the flywheel to prevent rubbing and binding. the set screws and holes are for clutch adjustments. i would use all the same size clutch springs that way they wear evenly.

tobias
 
Your shoes are for sure not against the flywheel. Post a pic without the shoes on. Do you have the pilot nut with the taper facing out or towards the flywheel?
 
Another issue I see in the pics is your bell is hitting your brakes. Makes a ringing sound when you are running. even with the little extra bell being forward it should miss the brakes. Suspect a bent mill plate for that issue. If you have stainless brakes it will blunt over the edge of the dicks cut the pads and leave you with no brakes. So address that issue as well
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Back to Clutch topic:
If your running the shims under the shoes it will do that too. HPI CB's are short. I stopped running HPI's bells a while back now. One of the best things I have done in that department. Try racer edge TI's nice bell good price and has a longer skirt for running more options than just HPI's pilot nut and stuff.

If you don't want to go that route pull the spacers out from under the shoes it will sit down and the bell will cover them. they are not a MUST to run btw (shims spacers)

Please take off the lower bearing and take a shot of the pilot nut. looks like the ofna nut. ='s don't work with HPI bells...
 
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Hey racerb have you been trying to start the truck with the radio on? I saw you say you have adjusted the needle under the HSN. That is the idle, if its wrong you will have issues. Put it on a block, wood 4X4 etc., and start it with the radio off, working the carb manually. Let us know what you get.

Check out the videos on this thread.----> https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1955
 
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hmmm

for those of you stating about my clutch bell rubbing brakes, yes I absolutly know about this hense why I did inspect.... I have yet to actually personally run the truck... I have seen it running but not driving.... I will definetly try starting it without radio on and up on a block.... like I said I was not the first to adjust the "do not touch needle" and starting it without the radio will definetly centralize some of my issues.... I have installed a new radio/recevier with the truck so radio may not be set perfect either.

I do not know what they have done previous with the clutch so it very well could be mix match parts..
2morrow I will go to the LHS and see what is available for clutch parts.. pilot nut and clutch bells etc

here are some pics of the pilot nut, hopefully these will do, I know the pics are a little dark!!

I wonder if I should pull the the nut and possibly the flywheel off as well. see whats going on under there??
 
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Yea bud that sure does look like an ofna nut. It will work but you gotta grind it down and it's a pain to put springs on because there is no taper to pop the springs over. The ofna nut is about .125" longer than a hpi or mugen nut. That is why your CB is jamming up the works.
 
Blazer X said:
Yea bud that sure does look like an ofna nut. It will work but you gotta grind it down and it's a pain to put springs on because there is no taper to pop the springs over. The ofna nut is about .125" longer than a hpi or mugen nut. That is why your CB is jamming up the works.
Click to expand...

Yep OFNA..... +1 with the Blaze
 
holy crap thank you greatly!!!! I was racking my brain over this whole clutch issue!!!!! that helps me greatly on that issue... I was really worried something more was the issue..... I will go to LHS 2 morrow and see what the got
 
The reason I know this is I accidently ordered one with the ofna shim kit once. I threw the nut in my box and kept it as a spare. When I got a spare engine I put it on and had the same issues as you did. I did get it too work but changing shoes was a real task. I like the ofna nut because of the wide spring groove.
 
hey so I just thought I would give a quick update... i have left the clutch apart as I am going to get a new pilot nut..... but I installed the motor and wanted to try starting it without radio.... well the outcome........ its alive hahaha, not completly tunned but I can rev it and it doesn't die.... I think it is very rich thou as i went through half tank of fuel in no more than 10 minutes running with idleing and some revving.... plus quite a bit of excess fuel out of the pipe.... maybe that is normal when not moving??.... nothing some you tube movies won't be able to hopefully teach me
You can't imagine (well maybe you can) how relieved I am to hear it running though
 
another update.... I replaced the pilot nut and the CB.... problem with the CB covering shoes is gone yippeee... but when I installed motor in truck it still rubs the brakes.... it is a constant rub not like something is bent where it rubs a little then goes away.... I just wonder if the shims under the shoes are a little too thick, as I need 2 washers under the CB to make it spin freely... I have determined that I do need washers under shoes cause they are the alluminum ones.... I guess I will have to pull motor out yet again and see if I can get it to suck down a little more grrrrrr
 
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