Question on sealing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
jester296

jester296

Active Member
Messages
76
Location
Ohio
Ive read jamiesavage's sticky on sealing great info but i have a few questions. I have a 5.9 and ive taken the pinch bolt out but still cant get the carb loose not sure what to do? Also, there is a plate in the cooling head for the glow plug should i seal this to the head or around the sleeve? Any help would be great. Thanks
 
don't do the head, just wiggle the crab around, if u have to heat it up with a hairdryer. just seal the carb and the back plate, don't seal the pullstart or roto start.
 
ok wont do the head alos will white lithium grease work for sealing the orings on the carb needles i don't have any "green slime"
 
On the top of the carb where it goes into the engine is an oring should i grease that or use the silicone on it like the sealing thread says to?
 
If your going to seal it (carb) with sealant you don't even need that o-ring, I usualy just take them off.
 
useful info here guys as every new engine should be dismantled,checked then sealed!!
 
Just wanna say that the seal job is done and the truck is running like a different truck. I thought it was going to be too much trouble but it took just a few minutes and made an ungodly difference. I will now say that anyone and everyone should do this before running any engine. thanks to everyone for their help.
 
Shaun said:
every new engine should be dismantled,checked then sealed!!
Click to expand...

I somewhat disagree, the high end mills rarely need to be sealed as they are of a much better quality.

Anyway great to hear you say its running better. How long did you let the silicone sit before running it. Cure time!!!
 
larsenracing said:
I somewhat disagree, the high end mills rarely need to be sealed as they are of a much better quality.

Anyway great to hear you say its running better. How long did you let the silicone sit before running it. Cure time!!!
Click to expand...

yes thanks larsenracing i should have worded it differently i guess, i was talking about your average run of the mill engines, the high end mills are ready to go and are made to even more precise tolerances as a rule thats why your paying the extra $ for them
 
Great thread guys. I've just started to build my first kit (X SS). I'm shimming my diffs right now and thought I could start following the manual next. Didn't realise I needed to seal the engine. Another thing to add to the list!
Cheers
 
Last night I noticed that the idle was getting erratic on the savage but the battery indicator was reading low. could that be the problem or could it be that i didnt let the silicone cure long enough?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just took it on its first run today and ran good at first but once it was warmed up it wouldnt rev down after a high speed run and the temp was bout 270. i turned about every screw on the thing and nothing really changed. a friend thought it could be another air leak could this be with my stock tank and fuel lines?
 
if you used ultra copper, it could be it was not cured yet as sometimes it could take a few days to fully harden in some spots.
 
jester296 said:
Just wanna say that the seal job is done and the truck is running like a different truck. I thought it was going to be too much trouble but it took just a few minutes and made an ungodly difference. I will now say that anyone and everyone should do this before running any engine. thanks to everyone for their help.
Click to expand...

OK this kills me pic one ... This ^^^ Or this VVV

jester296 said:
Just took it on its first run today and ran good at first but once it was warmed up it wouldnt rev down after a high speed run and the temp was bout 270. i turned about every screw on the thing and nothing really changed. a friend thought it could be another air leak could this be with my stock tank and fuel lines?
Click to expand...

I only seal a mill if it has a known leak and you can test for most. Out of 10+ mills only one has needed its Mid screw sealed.
 
newbie 1391 said:
Yes very good info here, what do you consider a high end mill..:resp:
Click to expand...

Very generally speaking anything from about $180 up wont need sealing but like I stated this is a general statement.

I also agree with Bank. I would check the mill before digging into it. I however do tend to seal most of my engines when they are a part at some point or another though.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
sorry for contradicting myself bankrupter. what i meant was it ran amazing last night just after sealing but when i ran it today it ran fine for bout 10 min or more then it would stay revved like the return spring wasnt working but its all on and working. I'm thinking i could possibly have the 1/2 tank lean problem. i know i can midtank it to fix the problem but i read somewhere i can just buy a tank. does anyone know where i can find this? Also, off this subject, know anywhere i can get an antennae tube i broke mine? lol
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i did have a pinhole in my tank fuel line so i cut it out and I'm gonna retry and retune.
 
jester296 said:
sorry for contradicting myself bankrupter. what i meant was it ran amazing last night just after sealing but when i ran it today it ran fine for bout 10 min or more then it would stay revved like the return spring wasnt working but its all on and working. I'm thinking i could possibly have the 1/2 tank lean problem. i know i can midtank it to fix the problem but i read somewhere i can just buy a tank. does anyone know where i can find this? Also, off this subject, know anywhere i can get an antennae tube i broke mine? lol
Click to expand...

yes that sounds like a air leak. Not half tank ...
 
i cut out the bad spot and ordered new line and a fuel filter. i retuned it with just a half tank and its runs good now other than the occasional stalling after a full throttle run but its not too often. is this just a tuning problem? Just wanna thank everyone for their help it is much appreciated. i was also curious about the new era tank, just in case of htl, it says it will fit all savages but the xl is not listed anyone know if its fits the xl?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
thats what i figured but if i can get the tank for ten bucks it might be worth a shot I'm gonna keep messing with it and ill decide later.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 934 (members: 1, guests: 933)
Back
Top