Problems starting savage x 4.1 need help!!

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D

dfm

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Hello

I purchased a almost new savage x, and i love it. But I have a big problem, it won't start. In the beginning I got it to start, but it has always been difficult. After the first start, there is no problem starting it, and it runs great.

But now I can't get it to start at all, I tried a new glowplug and I tried new nitro, I also warm it up with a hair dryer, but nothing works, I have 2 igniters, and there is power on both, and I tested the glowplug. If I remove the glowplug, there is nitro comming out of the engine, so there is nitro comming to the engine. There is compression on the engine. I also tried to set the engine to default on lsn and hsn.

I am new to Nitro engines, but i know 2 stroke engines well, so I know the basics of an engine.

I changed the fuel lines, could this be the problem, the fuel is running to the engine..

Sorry for the english, I'm from Denmark.
 
my savage x is stubborn at times to, what i found is if you turn the throttle trim knob about a quarter turn to the right when starting then after it warms up you turn it back down to the spot were the revs don't go down anymore "mark on knob straight up and down" thats how i start mine anyway just be careful not to set the throttle trim to high or it may take off on u when you start it lol also could your idle be set to low?
 
Welcome to the forum!
Is the fuel system primed? What I usually do is fill tank, remove fuel lines at carb and at exhaust and blow though exhaust side until a nice steam comes out at carb. Then reattach at carb and give it one more little puff.
Is motor broken in yet? You might want to loosen glow plug a bit too just make sure you tighten it after it hopefully fires up.
Good luck! keep us posted on your progress.

Dave
 
Pineapple said:
Welcome to the forum!
Is the fuel system primed? What I usually do is fill tank, remove fuel lines at carb and at exhaust and blow though exhaust side until a nice steam comes out at carb. Then reattach at carb and give it one more little puff.
Is motor broken in yet? You might want to loosen glow plug a bit too just make sure you tighten it after it hopefully fires up.
Good luck! keep us posted on your progress.

Dave
Click to expand...

Hi Thanks

Yes, i primed it and tried to loosen the glowplug, also with no result, and the engine is broken in..
 
MMMM ok this is gonna be a tough one I guess!
The only thing I can think of is to take some pics or better yet some vid of you trying to start?????
Sounds like you have covered all bases and I don't know what else to suggest.
Maybe some other members will help us out here.

Dave
P.S. Welcome to you too Benno1312-You may have better luck with your questions if you start your own thread or search the forums-there is a LOT of info here!
Good luck to you as well!
 
How cold is it there? Heat that baby up with a hair drier to around 120F. You will have a realy hard time getting it running at stock settings. Lean the HSN 1 full turn and the LSN 1/4
 
Last edited by a moderator:
oregonmud said:
How cold is it there? Heat that baby up with a hair drier to around 120F. You will have a realy hard time getting it running at stock settings. Lean the HSN 1 full turn and the LSN 1/4
Click to expand...

It is about 10 degrees c, but I started it at around 6 c I use a hair drier every time... But i will try to lean it out like you suggest, I already seen the videos, and I learned alot about the engine, and I have no problem tuning the engine, but it is difficult to do that, when I can't start it... Maby the engine has a fault, should I try to disassemble it and check for air leaks?
 
Cant hurt to take the needles out and look at the gaskets. Just put a little oil down around the needles first to lube them on the way out. You don't want to ruin a seal taking a needle out. Also take the carb off and inspect those gaskets if you don't come across a bad one in a needle.
 
Also take the backplate off for your strating unit and inspect the screws on the engine backplate. Make sure the screws are all tight.
 
oregonmud said:
Also take the backplate off for your strating unit and inspect the screws on the engine backplate. Make sure the screws are all tight.
Click to expand...

I took the backplate off, and all the screws were tight, I also found one problem, one of the springs in the clutch was broken, that explains why it won't idle and not drive... and it feels like there is a little slack in the flywheel when the piston is at top. And there is a click from the backplate (rotostarter) right before the piston is at top.
 
oregonmud said:
Cant hurt to take the needles out and look at the gaskets. Just put a little oil down around the needles first to lube them on the way out. You don't want to ruin a seal taking a needle out. Also take the carb off and inspect those gaskets if you don't come across a bad one in a needle.
Click to expand...

I'm not shure how to take the carburator off, I remowed the screw underneath in the engine block, should I just pull?
 
that clicking is the override for the roto/pull start, it means your engine is either really tight, causing the pin to override, or the engine is being rotated backwards, and the clicking is caused by the pin going back into position.
 
Had a quick blast through the posts here, but if I say something already covered sorry =)

As I live in England the weather this time of year is pretty cold (never over 10 degrees) so I have had problems starting my savvy at the best of times. A couple of tips I read on this forum helped me to get it started a little faster though.

I take it you are not experiencing any resistance when trying to start the engine? I can't remember if you said pull start or roto? If pull start and it's unusually hard to pull then the engine will be flooded and will be very hard to start, remove the glow plug and use the pullstart or rotostart a few times to remove any excess fuel from your engine.

I think you said that you had tested your glow plugs and glow starters? hold the glow plug with a pair of pliers and put it into the glow starter, the internal coil should glow bright red/orange.. if you blow on it, it should dim a little but not fully go back to a metal colour. If the glow plug is not heating up fully you will find it hard to start.

When priming the engine, pull the pullstart 3 or 4 times, so the fuel is just before the carb (any more than this and it takes me ages to get my savvy running) after you see the fuel in the line just before the card, apply the glow starter and pull some more, you should hear the engine trying to start.

Take your air filter off, what is the gap like on the air inlet, this should be open 1-1.5mm for an easy start. Make sure you put your air filter back on before attempting to start

Is your idle needle set to default setting? this should be flush.

Have you knocked any of your trims possibly opening your carb too much when trying to start?

Check your fuel lines for any damage. Pull the pressure line off the exhaust and the fuel line off the carb. Blow down the pressure line while pinching the fuel line, you shouldn’t be able to blow as there should be no loss of pressure.

Let us know how you get on =)
 
Hey again

Yesterday I got some new parts and got my car ready, the engine has been sealed and got a new clutch.
Is it normal that there is so much compression on the engine now, that the rotostart has trouble turning the engine?? when I loosen the glowplug, I can start the truck pretty easy 🙂
 
I had very similar symptoms with my engine. Check the screws where the rotostart screws into the engine backplate. My rotostart screws were on too tight, and it seemed the rotostart was binding and had difficulties turning the engine over. Try backing out the three screws an 1/8th at a time and see if this helps.
 
If the roto was "binding" the engine was more than likely flooded if it was fine with the plug loose. Sounds like your priming the engine too much.
 
Oregonmud, I thought the same exact thing when this happened to me, and it was frustrating as heck to the point where I thought I had an internal problem with the motor, but for some strange reason it turned out that the rotostart bolts were to tight. Thought it was kinda wierd myself at the time.
 
But if it turns with the plug out than I don't think its the screws. But I could be wrong. How big is your battery (rotostart) and how old is it?
 
It's new 4000 mha, but I'm shure that it is the oneway bearing, I tried to turn it with a wrench, and it turns without moving the piston..
 
Is it flooded than? Thats what makes them slip, trying to start the engine when its flooded. Than they get worn and never work right again.
Take the OWB out and clean it with WD-40. when you start the engine warm it up with a hair drier and loosen the plug 1/2 turn.

Do not prime the engine till there is no air in the lines. You just want to do it till a small amount of fuel makes it to the carb. If there is a big air bubble the worst that will happen is you will have to start it again.
A
fter its started tighten the plug. It usually dies when you do this but don't worry. You can fire it right up without having to loosen the plug again.
It will be good to replace the bearing and the shaft too if you can.

Than just be careful of flooding the engine again and messing the new bearing up.
 
Yep, that's a flooding problem alright. The engine is hydrolocking (air can't escape the top of the head due to an excellent seal from the fuel between the piston and cylinder walls. There's a good way to get around that as well.. Get a clear fuel line and watch your fuel. Hit the roto start with your finger over the exaust and as soon as the fuel is within 1/4th inch or closer, take your hand off the exaust. Now, attach the glow igniter, plug the exaust with your finger and hit the rotostart as SOON as the fuel moves, take your finger off the exaust and bam. Easy start.

I've learned that trick over the many starts of my savage. It works like a charm every time, the glow plug will heat up before being splashed with any fuel, and makes it so much easier for the engine to have a successful first ignition. Each engine is different when starting, mainly because of location, air temperature, and air density. Just find that "special" way you can start your truck, and you're good to go.

It sounded like your problem was a carb seal. It maybe have been blowing fuel into the motor, but it doesn't sound like it was getting enough. I've seen people running a turn out on the hsn just to get their motor running. A turn richer then break-in setting that is. They never knew a simple gasket could cause such a hassle.

The way I believe the theory is, that gasket might only be a half inch round, but that piston is not much bigger. Every little thing it could be, can make a big difference.

Though, glad to hear you got it running! And welcome to the forum bud! This place is the best for all your Savage needs 🙂 And the people are awesome.
 
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