Wheels spinning crazy on idle NEED HELP

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2StrokesFTW

2StrokesFTW

Well-Known Member
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hey guys, well most of you know that the savages x4.6 roto starter's small cylinder and springs got sucked into the motor. I took the back plate off, i got the two little springs out as well as the very small cylinder that goes in the bottom of the rod. I installed them, and everything is working fine. I put the motor back together, and installed it back in the chassis. To check the motor would start, i went outside and started the motor up. The motor had no gears connected to the wheels, and no load on it. I let it idle and revved it a bit and the clutch came apart. I went inside and put the clutch back together, and it seems to work fine. I went outside again with everything in place and tight, and started the truck up. It started right away, but the wheels are spinning fast. I let it warm up like that on a stool. After that i put it on the ground and the car was moving around even though i wasnt giving it throttle. When i would apply the brake, the motor would immideatly shut off. I put all the needles to factory settings and same thing would happen. I adjusted the throttle trim to neutral and that didnt do anything. I adjusted the idle to give it more gas and slow the motor down and still nothing would happen, wheels were still spinning fast. With all the needles at stock setting it took it for a ride, came back and still the same thing would happen. What is wrong with it?? I took some pictures of the linkage and all else. Can you guys help me. I know its alot to read but you gotta read it all to understand my situation.

gears are meshing properly like in the manual

S8000209.jpg


Slide has a 1mm spacing

S8000210.jpg


LInkage

S8000211.jpg


S8000212.jpg


closer look at the linkage

S8000213.jpg
 
ok cristian linkages look fine. lets go over what you have done since it was running good, removed the backplate and had the clutch come apart. with the back plate did you reinstall the oring that seals it to the motor? and with the clutch is it reassembled properly so that the clutch shoes arnt hanging up on the clutch bell?

p.s. that spur gear doesnt look to good
 
Mickey said:
ok cristian linkages look fine. lets go over what you have done since it was running good, removed the backplate and had the clutch come apart. with the back plate did you reinstall the oring that seals it to the motor? and with the clutch is it reassembled properly so that the clutch shoes arnt hanging up on the clutch bell?

p.s. that spur gear doesnt look to good
Click to expand...

yeah the o-ring never came off. It is still on the back plate and in the motor. i reinstalled the clutch exactly how its suppost to be in the manual. I followed the manual the whole way when installing the clutch back together
 
all the clutch shoes are tight to the center nut. are you sure the gear mesh isnt too tight? can you get a vid of the truck running?
 
Ok so the spur gear (as mentioned about) is FUBAR'd.
On my engine my LSN (the one on the carb) is flush with the line horizontal, so turn yours out (by the looks of it it's a little lean) 1/4 turn so it's horizontal and flush.

and the gap looks more then 1mm.
and i would suggest the OFNA throttle mod.
 
Mickey said:
all the clutch shoes are tight to the center nut. are you sure the gear mesh isnt too tight? can you get a vid of the truck running?
Click to expand...

yes, they gears mesh was too tight today. So i adjusted the motor mounts and made it looser, and the gears spin very nice and they take no effort at all. As for the carb settings i did do all the flush things and still the same thing happens. The clutch shoes are tight to the centre bolt
 
2strokesFTW said:
yes, they gears mesh was too tight today. So i adjusted the motor mounts and made it looser, and the gears spin very nice and they take no effort at all. As for the carb settings i did do all the flush things and still the same thing happens. The clutch shoes are tight to the centre bolt
Click to expand...

Just to let you know that spur is garbage -.-
here is what it should look like

HPI_Savage_Spur__4a24d928c3f47.jpg
 
also. I'm getting a new kyosho .28 motor on saturday. The motor I'm getting has just been broken in and store away. So everything on it is still new. Comes with the clutch shoes too. I will bolt that motor on to my chassis, and if the wheels are still spinning like crazy after some adjustment, then its something for the chassis like a loose linkage
 
Also i forgot to mention, i am getting a new slipper clutch that is made out of metal on saturday as well
 
also, could it be something from the clutch?? The clutch shoes are all scratched and messed up, because they flew out of the truck today when it was running with no load and i put it back together. I'm thinking its not disengaging when i take my finger off the throttle
 
Really sounds like the clutch springs are shot. Try hitting it with the roto start, no fuel. If the wheels spin with the roto start, you need to get back inside the clutchbell. Just crank it over a few times with no ignighter.
 
Your idle gap is a little large but does it stay open that much with the brakes on full? I would make it about 1/4 smaller and use the LSN (richen) until the idle drops to normal. If your wheels won't stop spinning or kill the engine when you put it on the ground without it moving, chances are your clutch is binding and needs some attention. As mentioned, your mesh was way too loose and that's what took the tips off all the teeth on the spur gear. Plastic is cheaper and gives you a weak point, if your mesh is correct there is no need to go with steel, it will cause more issues and expense in the long run.
 
ya robin "purenitro" is right believe it or not i have been running the same plastic spur for over a year now and still looks like new!!
 
Shaun said:
ya robin "purenitro" is right believe it or not i have been running the same plastic spur for over a year now and still looks like new!!
Click to expand...

I'm with Shaun on this one :lmao:`
Still have the same old 47t plastic spur from over a year ago, and when i hit jumps i rarely let go of the gas when i land :)
 
the plastic works fine, but also consider that many of us also run the steel spur with racing bell with zero issues, and hpi sells it as an upgrade to the plastic.


the summer before last, i watched bank grenade the internals on transmission running the 47t plastic spur i gave him which to this day is in pristine condition. the weak point on a plastic or steel spur is called the slipper clutch if you adjust it properly.

just remember, if you run a steel spur, then you need to run the racing/vented clutchbell as it is harder steel than the non racing/vented. mesh it right & adjust the slipper proper and youll have zero issues.
 
ya i wasnt trying to say not to run a steel one just that the plastic ones hold up pretty good as well thats all!!
 
I had the same prob on mommas truck recently! At Idle it wanted to take off. Like purenitro said make that idle a little smaller and add more fuel to the lsn and see if that helps. It took me a while to figure it out but it was the solve to my problem. Good luck!
 
Well said Fred.
Just before winter i threw on the steel spur and vented clutch bell. Only ran it for a week or two then we got berried in snow.
As you said if you have the slipper adjusted right your mesh is correct and you have the vented clutch bell you have have no issues.
 
Shaun said:
ya i wasnt trying to say not to run a steel one just that the plastic ones hold up pretty good as well thats all!!
Click to expand...

yep. i totally agree. the stock composite that came on my sav X rtr made it through my F, my picco, a couple mills on bank's trucks and is still in perfect condition. strong motor plate and a good mesh & she'll hold.
 
While it may be an upgrade, it does cost a good bit more as well considering he would need a new clutch bell too. The other potential issue is "if" your mesh was off, not only would you wreck the spur but it would take out your clutch bell as well, now both would need to be replaced. I was just suggesting to stay with the plastic as for under $5 he's up and going again, and if the mesh is out again, it's just another $5 lesson. On a side note, one thing that will take out a plastic spur gear is high idle, the shoes continue to rub the bell making it very hot. This heat transfers into the few teeth in contact with the clutch bell softening them up a little. Hammering full throttle after sitting for a while can and will tear teeth right off the spur and continue to peel them off all the way around. You have to make sure that the clutch is fully disengaged when the truck is idling and not moving.
 
when i roto start the truck with out the igniter , and the truck is on the ground, and i push down the roto starter to start it up, the truck moves by its self on the ground. So should i run a another plastic slipper gear??
 
You can see what I'm talking about with the heat build up, at about 7 o'clock you can see the first few teeth that got ripped out and then the rest to follow.

DSC03223.jpg
 
2strokesFTW said:
when i roto start the truck with out the igniter , and the truck is on the ground, and i push down the roto starter to start it up, the truck moves by its self on the ground. So should i run a another plastic slipper gear??
Click to expand...

That would mean your clutch is not operating properly, it is binding up some how, take it apart, I'm sure there is an issue inside.
 
Purenitro said:
That would mean your clutch is not operating properly, it is binding up some how, take it apart, I'm sure there is an issue inside.
Click to expand...

yeah the clutch was all worn out, and one of the springs were badly bent. So that is why, i bent it back but it wasnt still holdin very well. Once i fix this problem i hope it will go away.
 
also PURE, everytime i take it out, even after the mill is fully warmed up, and i adjust the idle so the wheels don't move at all, it will work, and after i shut it off, and the next day i take it out, i need to adjust the idle again. ITs like almost everytime i take it out, i need to keep constantly adjustin the idle
 
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