wheelie

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2dxtreme

Well-Known Member
Messages
168
why can't i get my 4.1 to wheelie at all. I'm running a 52/15 combo. i've stiffened up the rear shocks a little to take out some of the squat in the rear. how else can i make it wheelie or is the 4.1 not supposed to?
 
spur gear nut is tight already checked that and the shoes looked fine when i had the cb out. i want mine to do that. but thats with a axial i don't feel like upgrading yet
 
use your temp gauge and try to tweak a little more power out of it.
My hpi 25 wheelied pretty good. your 4.1 should too.
 
i've tried tweaking but it seems everytime i lean it a little bit more it runs too hot. what kind of running should i be doing like how long to tell how hot it gets. I'm normally running 1/8 of a tank of fuel and check it. i've been using the spit test recently and its sizzling off within 3 secs so i know I'm near optimal temp. should i do anything with the low speed needle? low speed is set factory right now
 
hmmm thats weird, i can get my 4.1 to wheelie most of the time i even had it flip right over on its lid and chew the roll bar up lol! mind u I'm running the hpi ribbed pipe that might make a difference
 
my low speed was set way to lean from the factory like 1 1/2 turns out and it didnt want to idle down. I'm not saying this is what your problem is cuz its not but what i am saying is even though they tell u not to mess with the low speed sometimes factory settings are off! might just be to rich on the low speed AS WITH MOST ENGINES THERE PRE SET RICH FOR BREAK IN NOT FOR PERFORMANCE!
 
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Please Note That My Savage X With The 4.1 Doesnt Wheelie All The Time But It Should Be Fairly Easy To Get The Front Off The Ground!
 
one thing i have noticed right now when it gets warm and i try and lay into the throttle it bogs for 1/2 a sec then takes off too rich maybe? I'm gonna try working on the low speed slightly. i still have the stock pipe on haven't gotten up off the wallet for the ribbed pipe yet
 
The day I broke in my savage (Savage 25 full stock), I went to race with my cousin and I could launch it as it flipped, has to be something to do with your tuning!
 
I'm gonna guess at about 7 tanks thru it so far
 
one thing i have noticed right now when it gets warm and i try and lay into the throttle it bogs for 1/2 a sec then takes off too rich maybe? I'm gonna try working on the low speed slightly. i still have the stock pipe on haven't gotten up off the wallet for the ribbed pipe yet

If you look on ebay you can usually find the ribbed pipe for $10-$15 cheaper than a hobby shop
 
i'll keep an eye for the ribbed pipe. how can i check the clutch springs? with the shoes what would be better than stock?
 
your engine will gain more power, you need to keep her cool now.

sorry for my first recomendation to tweak it. I assumed you had finished

break in period. The mfg. recommended break n is a little short in my opinion.

I'm passing the gallon mark with my rebuilt 4.6 and it is really surpriseing me

with its powerband. I just ran it for about halph tank and checked temp. It

was at 212 , nice.

It wheelies like nuts at 212 degrees, 52 spur 18 clutch bell

it is not your shoes, I never tried anything else but stock. You could pull on your shoe to see that you have spring pressure.

hang in there, youll get the power you want, let it break in.
 
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i feel it has the power but the suspension just squats so much. what kind of running u doing when ur at 212 degrees?
 
I'm a basher, I run mainly in grass. The temp was just an example that you will get the power you need without leaning out the carb.

In my opinion your engine needs to be babyed for now. What you do during break in directly effects the engines performance later.

I learned the hardway, only trying to help.

the newer you are to rc tuneing the more a temp gun will help.

mine cost 25 dolars

rebuilding my 4.6 cost over 100

(I had about I think 8 tanks through it, it became hard to start. I opened it up found damaged piston skirt. more likely than not I got it to hot too early.)

during normal use, the new mill temp ranges from 220 to 250 degrees

the temp has alot to do with weather too, you may adjust the carb perfect one day and the next day its bogging alittle. theres a science behind this tuneing, I'm still learning too.

good luck x

qoute 2dxtreme
"i feel it has the power but the suspension just squats so much"

not the case in my opinion. I have had one shock on each wheel with old orange 21 springs in that last video I posted for ya. there painted blk.
 
I'm gonna guess at about 7 tanks thru it so far
Ok... 2dx.
I think I know whats up.
You just need to keep up with the break in.IMO
7 tanks is a little early for fine tuning if you ask me.

My 4.6 didn't really start to fly until I got over a half gallon or so through it.
Have patients and keep doing a break-in with the needles on the rich side of tune

It just sounds like it's still seating the piston. And don't forget about placing the piston at BDC durring each cool down period.

Also realize that when it does come alive, you may need to change the gearing you've selected to someting taller.

A 15/52 is super high torque and very low top speed.
I reccommend a 17/49.

This will give you a chance to pop wheelies and have good top speed while helping to prevent over revving and winding out.
 
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well since i bought this truck used the guy i bought it from had ran 5 tanks thru it and I'm up to about 3 or 4 full tanks as of right now. i've normally been running it on pavement and my temps using the spit test is sizzling off within 2 secs. i have a cheap temp gun and it normally shows around 280-300 but i still got smoke coming out on low end take off and top end
 
x

I have found it easier doing wheelies in grass then pavement.

definitly cool that motor down.
 
no holes have been cut yet thats actually something I'm doing soon. idk what plug is in it right now but the temp around here is hot and humid temps outside should i use a cold or med/cold plug? the fuel I'm using is backyard basher 20% 16% oil. where should i check for air leaks? like i said i bought this truck used so i know I'm going to find something lol. i will more than likely upgrade to the ribbed pipe soon once i get the temps down. would the pipe pull the temp down as well?
 
well since i bought this truck used the guy i bought it from had ran 5 tanks thru it and I'm up to about 3 or 4 full tanks as of right now. i've normally been running it on pavement and my temps using the spit test is sizzling off within 2 secs. i have a cheap temp gun and it normally shows around 280-300 but i still got smoke coming out on low end take off and top end

1.)The spit sizzling off at 2-3 sec. IS WAY TOO HOT!!! try 6-7 sec.
Richen the hsn. counter clockwise a half turn.

2.) Sounds like your temp gun is right. TOO HOT!!!

3.)Get your temps down to 225 degrees by richenning the hsn.
THATS IF YOU don't WANT TO REPLACE YOUR MOTOR ANYTIME SOON.
Just my two cents.
 
yep good advice!! i just took for granted high speed needle settings were already set! but the air flow holes are a good idea as well! but a lean high speed needle would definately raise temps! see thats why i wouldnt offer any advice about glow plugs cuz I'm not sure what one he should be running so when I'm not sure i don't give advice :bigsmilie: as i think its better getting no advice then bad advice and reckin your ride!! lol
 
ok i'll richen it back up 1/2 turn and see what the temps are like then. how else can i get some more power out of this thing
 
And if your running with the body on, cut a hole in the wind shield the size of a golf ball or take the body off until you do.


Lets just hope the engine isn't already toast.



The engine needs air flow through the body to stay cooler.
 
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i think i read that the guy before you ran 5 or 6 tanks before you and your ran 3 or 4? Ok i have a few questions

1) did the other guy buy it brand new?
2) did you buy the truck with those gears or did you put them on?
3) have you been running the truck at those temps the whole time you've had it?
4) Is the exhaust diffuser in? (is the cone with the holes in the pipe)
5) have you cut the holes in the body yet? If not what are your temps when running with out the body on?

Like someone said before break in is crucial for engine performance and life. I have 6 1/2 gallons threw my 4.1 (25) and it still pulls wheelie's and flips itself on its lid i even have my slipper loose my gears are cb 15 spur 49 even if i put the 18 cb in i can still do wheelie's, i also have the stock pipe on. Like someone else said it is alot easier to pull wheelies in the grass than asphalt.
 
i think i read that the guy before you ran 5 or 6 tanks before you and your ran 3 or 4? Ok i have a few questions

1) did the other guy buy it brand new?
2) did you buy the truck with those gears or did you put them on?
3) have you been running the truck at those temps the whole time you've had it?
4) Is the exhaust diffuser in? (is the cone with the holes in the pipe)
5) have you cut the holes in the body yet? If not what are your temps when running with out the body on?

Like someone said before break in is crucial for engine performance and life. I have 6 1/2 gallons threw my 4.1 (25) and it still pulls wheelie's and flips itself on its lid i even have my slipper loose my gears are cb 15 spur 49 even if i put the 18 cb in i can still do wheelie's, i also have the stock pipe on. Like someone else said it is alot easier to pull wheelies in the grass than asphalt.

he did buy it brand new, the gears that were on it when i got it were 15/49 the lsh only had the 52 in stock when the 49 stripped. i normally run the truck for 5 or 10 mins and check the temp then let it cool down for 30 mins then bash it again. the diffuser is not in. i have not yet cut the holes thats my next project. when I'm running the truck i am doing alot of long runs could that be why the temps are getting up there? what do u have ur needles set at and what glow plug u using i am thinkin my glow plug is starting to go bad and i did richen up the hsn tonight still no wheelies should i try messing with the lsn at all?
 

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