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Nihal

Nihal

Active Member
Messages
97
Location
Singapore
I did my first start on my savage x 4.6!!! Feeling was good. As this is my first tank I let the engine run. Then after about mid tank the engine got cut off…No idea why!! Start again and it was going fine till I begin to hear the engine ref up. I heard about mid tank lean but I did not hear that the engine will stall. How can I overcome this issue? I was not able to start the engine again as the battery of the roto start was weak. I also find out that the break on my savage is always engage. I mean I can roll the car forward no problem but unable to roll back. Is this normal?:bookworm:
 
The stall is normal for break in. You may have to blip the throttle from time to time to keep the engine from loading up too much and stalling. If the roto start battery was weak after one start something may be wrong with that battery. If receiver battery is low it may not close the throttle properly too. Also check your linkages and carb to make sure they don't bind and keep the throttle from closing.so maybe the linkage or the battery is the reason why the engine revved up on you. Good luck! What rc's have you had before?
 
fz1dave said:
The stall is normal for break in. You may have to blip the throttle from time to time to keep the engine from loading up too much and stalling. If the roto start battery was weak after one start something may be wrong with that battery. If receiver battery is low it may not close the throttle properly too. Also check your linkages and carb to make sure they don't bind and keep the throttle from closing.so maybe the linkage or the battery is the reason why the engine revved up on you. Good luck! What rc's have you had before?
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Honestly, this is my first nitro so still a fresh newbie. :bag:
 
What about the free roll? Is it normal that the savage cannot roll in reverse when pushed?
 
no it is not, mine rolls backwards and forwards easily, in yours something is dragging and you should investigate to find out what....
 
I would start with looking at the brakes, although it could also be the gear mesh causing it too. your manual is going to be a good source of information.....
 
Do i have to tear down the truck to see this? esp the breaks. the gear mesh i can do but unable to find anything on the breaks in the manual.🙁
 
you can easily pull the :ercm: away from the spur thus eliminating the need to remove the :ercm: from the chassis, as for the brakes you can check them to see if they are dragging just by looking at the rotors while trying to roll it forwards and backwards to check for drag.....
 
The transmision has a one way bearing in it. Rolling the truck forward moves everything but the spurgear/ clutchbell. Rolling backward tries to move them too. Make sure thy aren't meshed too tight.

Try spinning the spur gear with your finger. From the back ( engine side) it should spin freely clockwise..
 
thanks guys for all your advise. I found out that the breaks are not at fault. I remove the top transmission which is holding the spur gear and try rolling. It was fine. Only with the spur gear back I can't roll backwards. I believe the issue is with the clutch bell. Try spinning but can feel some resistance. Also I can see a bit of play. In the clutch bell. Now how can I remove the engine without too much of dismantling of parts to get to the clutch bell?
 
Study the exploded views in the manual, this will give you the road map to what you need to do to take apart and most importantly, put it back together.

Flip the truck over, there are 4bolts that hold the engine mount to the chassis. Loosen these to move the engine away from the spur, or remove them to remove the engine. You will now have to read about gear mesh, to be able to put thinks back in place.

Seriously, sit with the truck and the manual for a few hours before you run it. Read through the beginner posts on this forum for advice.

This hobby can be frustrating if you do not take the time to learn how things work. This is especially the case with a nitro engine.

Learn and enjoy the process.
 
Hi Guys, Am truly grateful for the advise. Have successfully removed the engine and inspected. And i found out that the 2 bearings in the clutch bell is gone!!!! Tiny balls were falling out once i remove the clutch bell. Dame!!! Is this normal for its first tank!!???
 
your mesh must have been too tight causing alot of heat in the bell and bearings, replace them with a good quality bearing and adjust the mesh for just a slight tick of play between the gears, check all around the spur to see if it is even and not too tight
 
I have successfully install the bearings and put everything back together and the truck still have the same problem. Roll forward but not backwards. Then I realign the mesh and this time it can roll both ways!!!:woot:So I believe the issue is that the mesh could be too tight ( I guess:bored:, fell free to correct me ) . I can hear the clutch bell when rolling backwards and not during forwards. Should be normal right?:withstupid:
 
Nihal said:
tried to find but unable to. Do u have a link. Thanks
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I couldn't find the YouTube video I was thinking of. It showed a couple of different ways including the paper method and the "feel" method. Just go to YouTube and search, "setting gear mesh on RC Truck". That will get you in the ball park.

Jam Racing 1 said:
i have found the best way to adjust and check mesh is by feel, paper and all the rest only seem to complicate a rather simple process....
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I agree that the feel method is the best. However for someone that doesn't have the experience to know what he's feeling he might want to start with the paper method to get in the ballpark.

Nihal... If you don't know how much play you need by using the feel method start by using the paper method. Then feel how much play you have in the gears by holding one gear and moving the other. There should be a little play between the two gears. Make sure the gears move freely with no grinding noise.
 
If you are going to use paper it is best to fold a length of it in half about 2 inches long or so and push the gears together with the strip of paper in between, not super tightly but enough to mesh the paper between the 2 gears and tighten the :ercm: mounting bolts using a bit of locktite in the threads and then remove the paper and check the gear mesh thru a complete revolution to check for binding, if there is just the slightest tick of play while holding the clutch bell you are done, tighten the :ercm: mounting bolts again and start it up and play.....
 
Guys, Thanks a million for your advise. You guys are fantastic. I know i've been in a pain in the ass. i've already fixed my truck but waiting for Sat to start it up again. Again appreciate your advise.:babyboy:
 
Manage to start my second tank on a stand. after a few seconds engine start to rev up to the max and the wheels spinning to the max also. Have to apply the breaks to stop the rev but once i let go of the breaks, it goes again. when i place the truck down it was ok but slowly it rev up and start to move forward. i trim the throttle on the radio to the max and it stop moving. but after a while the engine did rev up again. What am i doing wrong?????:banghead:
Took a video but unable to post the video as it shows error msg.
 
Nihal said:
Manage to start my second tank on a stand. after a few seconds engine start to rev up to the max and the wheels spinning to the max also. Have to apply the breaks to stop the rev but once i let go of the breaks, it goes again. when i place the truck down it was ok but slowly it rev up and start to move forward. i trim the throttle on the radio to the max and it stop moving. but after a while the engine did rev up again. What am i doing wrong?????:banghead:
Took a video but unable to post the video as it shows error msg.
Click to expand...

Host your vid at a hosting service, You tube, viemo or the like and post it here
 
I see you applying the brake. This also closes the throttle and the engine slows several times in the video. Something as simple as having your throttle servo arm off center could cause it. With your radio on, engine off, the trims centered and the throttle trigger untouched is the slide fully closed on the carb?
 
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