Transmission Case Melted!

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pinkducky

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I don't why but I keep stripping my stock 16T pinion gear. So, I decided to install Robinson Racing Hardened one instead. I took my Savage out for a run yesterday and after 20 minutes of run time, smoke started coming out of my transmission case!

10 minutes later, the truck stopped moving completely. I also noticed that when running, the truck wasn't shifting gears as well.

As you can see that pinion already started to strip. This is a Brand New pinion gear. The transmission gears look intact and fine to me. I was using the stock 52T steel spur gear and the slipper pad melted also. Is this a bad combo? 52T - 16T steel to steel?

Did it created too much friction and heat that it melted the casing altogether? I did mesh the gears correctly as prescribed in the manual before running. Perhaps I should go with plastic spur gear. Any help is greatly appreciated guys!

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man!!! i think your slipper might have been too loose. Stick with plastic, and tighten it down all the way, then back off 1/4 turn. I couldn't tell you why that robinson racing clutch bell started going so quick though. Maybe the spur is made from something a little harder. When you mesh the gears together, make sure the engine is not sitting at a funny angle. Try to get it as straight as you can, this may have contributed to the cb wearing fast.

Just realized this is probably an xl. LOL, my bad, so when i said stick with plastic it made almost no sense. You could try plastic though. The rest still applies.
 
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looks like you got 2 separate issues going on here:

you said 'pinion' but i think you meant clutchbell?

any way you need to run a racing clutch bell with a metal spur gear a hardened bell wont stand up to it. here is a racing http://storefront.smfstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=32_38&products_id=630

also, like the boiz said i think your slipper was too loose. when you tighten it down, remove your mill & get a socket & rachet on there & really SOCK it down so the springs are fully compressed.

then back it off 1/8 to 1/4.
 
i would try a vented cb with aluminum shoes. it seems to help out a bit. also, use a very vine grain sand paper to clean up the inside of the cb so the shoes can stick to the metals not a painted surface.
 
Is there any harm if I tighten it up completely without backing it off a 1/4 turn?
 
lol there might be, but i haven't experienced any harm. I'm pretty sure there are others that tighten all the way. I just don't know if they run metal spurs.
 
The slipper is kind of the safety net. It is suppose to slip to eliminate any jarring of the rest of the drive line. So yes it can lead to other problems like busted dog bones or stripped Diffs and so on but everyone I know locks them down pretty much all the way. I tend to tighten then back off a slight bit but I don't think they slip hardly at all yet.

Most people have problems with them if they slip they either melt the center out of the spur or spin the pad completely out.
 
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Thanks for the help guys. I think I will try tightening it up all the way and see whether it helps. I am also going to change out the steel spur to plastic one.
 
I have a vented 14T laying around. Can I use it 52T? With Terra Pins tires?
Perhaps it would help with the heating issue. The 16/52 was giving me nice wheelies!
 
pinkducky said:
I have a vented 14T laying around. Can I use it 52T? With Terra Pins tires?
Perhaps it would help with the heating issue.
Click to expand...

it would help, but it caz its a racing bell (harder steel)

give it a try, youll have more bottom end.
 
Great idea on the plastic. They do provide a cheap weak link. However they will melt if your Clutch Shoes are slipping or have excess engine heat or slipper slips but if your tight you will not have to worry.

Like the guys said above with it locked do your best when jumping to be completely off the throttle or brakes because then you will tear parts up.
 
pinkducky said:
I have a vented 14T laying around. Can I use it 52T? With Terra Pins tires?
Perhaps it would help with the heating issue. The 16/52 was giving me nice wheelies!
Click to expand...

The 14T and on the 52T will give you easier wheelies. You may want to go to a 14/49 setup for more speed and a little less wheelie action.

What mill are you running and how many gallons you got thru it?
 
Aahh Then maybe you want to do steaper than that. Maybe 16/47.

Extended or stnadard length?
 
From the looks of that case Id say the bearing spun. that heat didn't come from the spur gear. if both that bell and spur are from RR it is ok to run them together. But looks like you need a nova adjustable mount to center the gears your too close to the edge of the bell and that will blow out bells every time.

trust me on this:
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Bankrupter said:
From the looks of that case Id say the bearing spun. that heat didn't come from the spur gear. if both that bell and spur are from RR it is ok to run them together. But looks like you need a nova adjustable mount to center the gears your too close to the edge of the bell and that will blow out bells every time.

trust me on this:
Click to expand...

The 52T spur I was using is rather skinny and the clutch bell sat towards the back. What does the nova mount looks like and where can I get it?
 
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Bankrupter said:
thanks fred didnt get the update on this one



the gears do but split the top housing and take out that shaft, How is the bearing closest to the spur. looks like it may have locked up
Click to expand...

Thanks for making me check. There's no binding on the bearing closest to the spur. It still works good.
 
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