starting prob

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ANDY said:
glow plug came with the engine everything is charged up!i am using a paint stripper hot air gun and the engine is hot to touch why will loosening the glow plug help? i am still on my first tank of fuel in the break in period it says use a full tank as per factory settings.will the outside temp be a factor it's about -4 at the moment but iam indoors.what is owb? thinking of taking it to my lhs but would like to solve it myself.thanks.
Click to expand...

Andy - Loosening the glow plug will lower compression in turn making the engine easier to turn over. If you think the rotostart is not catching this is my recommendation.

While the block is cold, flush the area around the glow plug with some wd40 or nitro to clear dirt away. Pull the glow plug out of the engine and the air filter off the carb. Spray 3 - 5 heavy squirts of wd40 in the glow plug hole and in the carb with the throttle open. Elevate the front of the truck so the wd40 runs to the backplate area where the One Way Bearing is. Crank it over a bunch while the glow plug is out. Repeat this two or three times.

Turn the truck upside down, crank over the engine a few times to get any excess WD40 out of the engine. At this point since your glow plug is out, its a good time to pop it on your igniter and make sure it still glows bright. Put the glow plug back in, snug it down then loosen it slightly. Now here there is two schools of thought after using wd40.

1. Flood the engine by over priming it, pull the plug out and deflood it. This clears any wd40 out in the engine.

2. Don't prime the engine. Start it as normal and the truck will fire off the left over wd40 in the block and at the same time pull fresh fuel in with the vacuume.

I do the number two version. But its up to you, whatever you feel safe with. If your doing it inside and your block is room temp, don't bother heating it. Just clip the glow igniter on for 15 seconds then try to crank her over.

If the block is ice cold hit it with the heat gun till shes got some warmth to her, clip the glow plug igniter on. Let it sit for a few seconds and try to turn her over.

This is where having a rotostart kinda sucks, because you can't feel if shes flooding or not. You should beable to hear the slipping though if the one way bearing is still slipping. But it shouldn't be since we just flushed it with wd40. If you suspect shes flooding lean out the LSN a tad and try again.

If she starts, don't forget to tighten the glow plug up.
 
i think maybe you should take a trip to ur lhs. its all very well us telling you what to do but if u cant put names to parts yet its a bit futile. get it to ur lhs and get them to show you how to start it. ask them to point out certain parts to you, ie, HSN, LSN, OWB etc. it can be a bit complicated at first mate but don't worry, its all comes together pretty soon.

what about using a cordless drill to start it? if nothing else, that battery will last a bit longer for u. mind and turn the torque settings down on the drill tho incase u wreck the OWB.
 
Just noticed you said you were still within the first tank of breakin. Its not uncommon to foul glow plugs out during break in due to the rich settings. Definetly check it off the engine and make sure its glowing.

Also I said earlier that if the block is room temp not to bother heating it, but with it being a almost new engine you should heat it up.

Check the glow plug first before you do anything, simple things first save time and money.
 
nice post there 08 this mill should start if not lean outthe lsn like we said I had to lean out my buddies on his brand new sts because we couln't get it to run of breakin... I ened up leaning the lsn out by like a full turn KEEP US POSTED!!!!!
 
my x did same when i got it took forever to get it to run then it did a tank died and wouldnt start agai turne out to be over rich foulin the plug so i tweaked it didnt need much and it ran again
 
it's running

thanks for all the suggestions i loosened the glow plug warmed the mill up and it fired first time just run a full tank of fuel through her at 7am GMT and it's about -5 oh it's feels good! will run second tank later today.is there anything else i should be doing whilst breaking in? sorry just don't know the acronym's yet.
 
yaay! well done bud. go slow is the main thing! i usually run a tank through at idle and then the second tank, i blip the throttle every 30 secs or so to flushout the oil that builds up in the engine.
 
running

thanks mate,i've run about half a tank at idle when i first put engine in then today a full tank at no more than half revs second tank doing the same again does that sound ok or should i leave it idling?
 
starting

i hear what your saying the slower i do this break in period the better and longer my mill will last.is it better to do the 3-4 tanks in one go or leave some time in between them?thanks for taking the time in answering questions you have probably answered hundreds of time before.
 
i read that you were to let the engine cool a bit between tanks. 10/15mins should do it tho! i ran 5 tanks thro mine in a shift at work. i made up a jig to hold the engine pipe and tank and just let it run in as i 'worked' away.
 
i run 3-4 tanks at idle on a new mill, letting the engine cool between heat cycles (cup of tea/coffee) then blip the throttle every 30secs to a minute for a tank, then just, drive it round the garden at half throttle max, for maybe 3 tanks. then i'll take it to the local spot, warn it up properly 1/4 tank maybe, then start the tuning.
 
everybody has their own different ways of running in. aslong as u don't go leaning it out and revving the nuts off it in the first tank, you shouldnt do to much damage. i swear by 5 tanks at idle then tune from there. I'm sure more folk will give u more ideas too, go with what suits u better.
 
it's like wullie says, everyone has their own technique, and people will say theirs is the best, i aint, but i find what i do works for me, but the bottom line is go slow, be patient and you will be rewarded my young apprentice. :buttshake: :spew: :buttshake:
 
problem

back to square one it's not starting again.i think roto-start and glow starter are playing up it wants to fire but just wont catch then the batteries ru ndown of mentioned objects,trouble with buying second hand the lad really mistreated the car.it does seem to flood quite abit or its maybe me ,it's not going to beat me.i only get an hour here and there with it. work commitments and the like.thanks.
 
have you ried swapping out the plug when it "wants to fire"? I've had that problem, and a new plug fixed it up...
 
i try to keep a couple of spare plugs they are always handy to have around i would take the engine out and seal it up there may well be an air leak as there was on my brand new truck as for electric hang in there once you get your running right you will never look back. hope this is of some help to you
also is it new or old fuel
 
starting

fuel is brand new picking up a new battery for the starter today wil also get some glow plugs only joking about electric no sounds or smells no starting probs nah not for me.i will keep you posted thanks.
 
awesome link poly! I just bookmarked it...I'll have to use that with my Axial .28 and my HB .46...been wondering what was the "best" method, since I keep hearing different versions...
 
I'm going to try it on my 2 new engines aswell, it makes sense at the end of the day.

i might have to keep a few socks on the engine head to keep the temps up though. its a bit chilly here just now
 
fixed

i've fixed it proper this time the flywheel had come adrift from it's brass cone thing that locks it onto the crank shaft engine out tighten it back up started first time put a couple of tanks through it just needs tuning now it doesn't seem to tick over very well keeps cutting out also which screw do i start to lean her out with?THANK YOU to everyone who oferred a solution to my frustrating proplem it's nice to know there is someone to help,thanks.:partyon:
 
a nitro engine doesnt like idleing for periods of time (well, shouldnt) as the crankcase gets clogged with oil (it builds up after the nitromethane is burned) which is why people blip the throttle to clear the mill out.

now, tuning. here's what i do:
get the mill warmed up, a couple of laps around a car park, then tweak the hsn (high speed needle) in 1/4 turn, test run, getting wot (wide open throttle/full throttle) and make sure there is a good whitey/blue smoke from the exhaust.

repeat until a turn in, then do 1/8 turn, for a half turn, i then go down to 1/16 turn, as to get it more precise.

what you are looking for, is no white smoke (engine running to lean, and no lubrication to the mill) and/or it bogging down. 'bogging down' is where the engine speed increses, then will drop down, prob stalling. if either of these happen i will richen (counter clockwise) the hsn up about a 1/4 turn.

if your carb has a lsn, (2 needle or three) i would leave it alone for the time being, unless like me it almost 'miss-fires' from a standing start, in that case, statr off with 1/16 turns (clockwise for lean, c-clockwise for rich)

some people use temp guns to tune, i personally don't. instead i listen to the mill and look fro white smoke from the throttle.

here's a linky that might help you out HERE!!
hope that helps bud.
 
[hs] darkshine;15426 said:
some people use temp guns to tune, i personally don't. instead i listen to the mill and look fro white smoke from the throttle.
Click to expand...

very good point, you should always tune the engine by performance and blue/white smoke, never by temps.

temps should only be for checking purposes and reference
 
i'm contemplating getting one. i know my mill was run in well (i know the guy i bought my sav from) and it runs well, just fro getting the temps right in this weather, i dunno if a sock is needed etc...
 
starting

put a couple of tanks through her yesterday running a bit rough still trying to tune her steering doesn't feel sharp big turning circles,feels great though, looking for mods now maybe a reverse module then some fancy bits.ant thoughts thanxs:eek:neshot:
 
st helens is about 3/4 hour from darwen still wants tunning a bit more i guess experience is what it is all about but runs ok got it very wet seems ok though stripped a spur gear whilst at idle don't know why clutch bell got very hot and melted it is there a way of stopping that?where do you start first to make it look better wheels body chasis?thanks.
 
Might want to make sure (if your still running the brass wassher on there) That that washers is not worn out.. try shuffing up your shoes w/ sandpaper
 
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