starting prob

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ANDY

ANDY

Member
Messages
21
Location
St helens,England
happy new year to everyone,through work,new job etc,not had much time to run my savage25,been in the shed for about 5 months,tried to start it but won't plug is ok seems to be flooding all the time i am still new to this any advise would be great:newb:
 
Your probably over primeing the engine take the glow plug out and crank the engine over watch your eyes tho I would also check your fuel has it set in the shed too (I keep my truck and fuel at room temp ) when I store it.. Get some fresh fule and a new plug and go from there ok man keep us posted
 
starting

there is a bit of crud in the carb just in the process of cleaning it had it going rev up really high then cut out. how do i take the carb off and where can i get an engine manual s-25,i have learnt my lesson on this one thanxs
 
There should be a screw just below the carb on the backside of it. And you can go to the hpi web site and look at the manual for any truck they have. Me personally i would pull the engine and pull the back plate off the motor and clean it out just to be on the safe side. A little wd40 would help in cleaning the inside. JMO!
 
starting

i've got it going to a fashion,stripped the carb put it back to factory settings and it started running really rough, when i brake it chokes the engine doesn't stall maybe carb wants setting up proper i just put in the twin brake hop up took engine and gear box out(must be an easier way)don't think i lined them back up proper,just ordered the new spur gear,it's all good fun though.any advice on tunning the carb for a newbie like me thanxs lads
 
ANDY said:
i when i brake it chokes the engine
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Sounds like you need to adjust your idle screw. When you apply the brakes the carb slide will close until it hits the idle screw, tighten it a little and that should cure that problem.

If your at factory settings it's probably a little rich, start leaning (turning clockwise) the HSN. For someone new tuning should be a very slow process, turn the needle about 1 clock position at a time then run the truck for a couple of passes...Repeat as needed. It's best to work on one needle at a time, always start with the HSN then move on to the LSN. The manual also explains this.

Good luck!
 
ok

hear what you are saying, just waiting on a new spur gear so i can start again thankxs.what are the most common hop ups to start with i have the twin brakes what next??
 
is it still fairly stock? fail safe, hump pack, throttle mod, steering servo, steering bearings, new pipe-- that is where I would start if the truck is still in stock form.
 
starting

i have the hump back and a fail-safe apart from that its stock.i planned on getting it running right first.i was taking out the carb and noticed there is a sleve where the carb slides into that is broke(this is a second hand one and the cond when i got it was diabollical) please tell me you can buy new ones??
also the bottom of the carb is not good the plastic bit that sits in the engine is all chewed up and i have lost the starting pin and pressure spring don't ask help!!:embarrassed:
 
ANDY said:
i have the hump back and a fail-safe apart from that its stock.i planned on getting it running right first.i was taking out the carb and noticed there is a sleve where the carb slides into that is broke
Click to expand...

as in the case of the engine? even if it is, pretty much every part is available from a hpi retailer.
 
the eBay chop shops part the engines out all the time...just look up "hpi crankcase" and you'll find a list of different people selling different crankcases for the various HPI motors...
 
found out my engine is shot the piece in question is not available according to my local shop so i have a new engine comming very shortly its a savage x f4.1 please don't tell me its not good.will need advise about running it ini think it is comming on the 29th thnaks
 
it's the piece that actually sits in the engine that is all broke so i think it is letting air in around the sides and mucking the mixture up
 
r u sure the carb sleeve didn't come apart and stick in the block that happend to me on my stock 25 mill
is there anyway u can get some clear pic of it?????
 
broke

i am in work now but i will but a pic up to-night, the bottom of the carb ,the plastic bit with the 'o' rings around, is eat up and the metal bit in the carb housing is shattered but i will post pic,thanks.
 
new engine

HELP! i decided to put a new engine in my savage 25 it's the f4.1 i've had about half a tank through it whilst running it in it has already stripped a spur gear and it has gone nowhere yet,might have been too loose,but now it won't start.i haven't touched any settings on the carb seems to be flooding alot any help would stop me from throwing myself of the nearest tall building great forum lads thanxs:confiused:
 
heat the mill up with a blow dryer take the glow plug out and clear it out any exess fule then try again (don't prim it) if that don't work u might have to lean out the lsn like 1/4 turn keep us posted
 
starting

tried all of the above still no joy it sounds as though it wants to start but just does'nt catch then the roto start battery fails scared of breaking the new engine anymore ideas please! thanxs
 
Have you tried changing the glow plug?
Are you sure the glow starter is charged?
Did you try leaning it out a little?
It is a possibility you got a defective engine. my sav .21 came with a defective engine which HPI replaced for free if you have tried everything and it still wont start you can send it to hpi and they will replace it.
 
loosen the glow plug when u start it it this should help and remember don't overprime it ...so u tryed heating he mill up to like 200 if u can get it that high right? might want to try and get a hotter plug aslo
 
glow plug came with the engine everything is charged up!i am using a paint stripper hot air gun and the engine is hot to touch why will loosening the glow plug help? i am still on my first tank of fuel in the break in period it says use a full tank as per factory settings.will the outside temp be a factor it's about -4 at the moment but iam indoors.what is owb? thinking of taking it to my lhs but would like to solve it myself.thanks.
 
loosening the plug will reduce compression, you only need to do it a fraction. a owb is a one way bearing, basically it sits at the rear of your engine, the rotostart plate attaches to it, in one direction it grips (when you fire the engine up) it spins the crank, in the other, or if engine rpm is grater than roto rpm (jammed button etc) it will slip, so the crank should not spin the roto backplate, or if it does, it will stop with a bit of friction on the bit the roto shaft goes into..
 
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