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Burn buddy!!! get a roll cage on that bad boy...yer messin up that fancy head!!! :D

but then again...that's what Savages are all about, as mentioned several times above...

no video?!?!
 
looks liek ur shocks are built wrong unless they changed the design, the top o rings are supposed to be inside the cap
 
lol talk to HPISF-Police about that he sold them to me :)...

Thanks all for the compliments, and I will be getting a roll bar/cage soon, depending on monetary input.

It's all in the photo/video thread folks!

(there's a fourth and final vid which is longer, that I'm trying to upload now)
 
Just had a good look at your pics, as my boss was scowling at me while browsing this thread..

As crzy-svg-usr said, your shocks are build incorrectly. You need to unscrew the top cap and pop thoes o-rings inside the cap. Use a flat head screwdriver to seat them. It's a wonder you haven't had any oil leakage :duh:

..atleast my 4.6 and all other shocks I have built have had the o-ring inside the cap.. could be a new design =)
 
I got the steering servo today for the x and some new batteries for the esavage from the lhs today. When I got home I charged the batteries up and took the esavage out and boy it is fast now. Well then I changed out the servo in the X and went to start it. It wasn't acting right would not idle and kept cutting out. Then I pulled the glow plug and there was metal shaving on it and I could see more on the piston. Does any one know if I blew the engine if so I guess I get to do the engine upgrade now.
 
I would tear it down to see if it has any damage to the piston/sleeve and see if it has any compression.

Also check the crankcase to see if it is damaged any.
 
Usually these motors don't blow up like a 4 stroke does and has shavings and so on threw the motor usually they just get a soct pinch.

To me shavings sounds like something in the lower end. Like the Wrist pin or the crank to rod connection.

When you roll the motor over by hand does it roll smooth or does it catch and drag, Check this by tunrning the crank by hand using the Flywheel.
 
When my f4.6 motor snapped at the crankshaft pin it had shavings everywhere except on top of the piston.
 
ya i would have to go with jester on this one!! no matter what the metal shavings are from its sure to have done some damage "time to run it into the ground" lol
 
I turned the fly wheel by hand and put my roto shaft in my drill and turned it over slowly and there was compression. Well I guess when I get back in town I will tear it apart and find the problem but that won't be for another two months. If it is bad enough I guess it will be time for the engine upgrade. I still don't know if I want to go truckzilla on it with the .46 conversion or a lrp.
 
I apologize,, Where i hauled coal was Salt Run road, across from the Cardinal Plant in Brilliant. Nice pics and vids. We have places like that to run here but it's been to muddy to get into them. Waiting on dryer weather.
 
Nice.. I've seen a pull start literally pop-off the one way bearing in a multitude of pieces.. Parts are bound to fail sooner or later. :)
 
lol yeah and i found out the hard way lol but my cuze said it could have been worse cuse if that little peace of the teeth of the gear got in the moter well lets just say game over lol
 
Auto said:
lol yeah and i found out the hard way lol but my cuze said it could have been worse cuse if that little peace of the teeth of the gear got in the moter well lets just say game over lol
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Thats some pretty good carnage. I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure that its impossible for those teeth to get in the engine.
 
Yeah, it'd be pretty difficult to get anything into the motor from there, almost impossible actually. But like Pineapple said, pull starts are kickin` ! :)
 
thanks Pineapple but if only i had the munny to spend on that ill probily get it in the future when i have the munny but ill save the site tho ok thanks man
 
So yesterday I got my Savage out for the first time in a while - and once I got it running well (it took forever, it's behaving VERY weird at idle), I took it out on the soccer field for some fun.

Well, the soccer field hadn't been mowed in quite some time, so the running wasn't quite so smooth. I wound up plowing into the soccer goal at full tilt because I couldn't get my tired hooked up well enough to turn. After a pretty spectacular somersaulting 720 spin, it landed on it's wheels and kept running. But as I brought it back over to me I could see the right-front flopping around a bit, and on further inspection the upper right camber arm had been snapped and the dogbone had popped out. We managed to track down the dogbone, but it is slightly bent, so I'm thinking it needs replaced too.

So, I am wondering if maybe this is a good time to do a few upgrades to these components. A replacement set of arms from HPI is only like $12, but is it worth $25 or so to move up to the RPM unbreakable sets? Also, should I replace the dogbone with a direct replacement or is there some upgrade there I can get too?

Any input is welcome. I'll try to get some pictures up when I am working on it - thought they're not that exciting.
 
If you are wanting to upgrade the A-Arms I find RPM to be the brand to go to. I have only ever broke one and that was because I went WOT into a curb. RPM replaced it free of charge though as they have a lifetime warranty. For dogbones, I have been having great luck with the FLM. They are $7 for one but well worth it. I haven't bent or broke one of them yet. A great improvement because I seemed to be braking stock bones every days running I did.
 
I've had many A-Arms break over the years. Never had an RPM A-Arm break. I actually am running a set on my savage X 4.6. It's rock hard tough, and I like them better than the stockers by far. They are lighter, yet extremely strong. RPM is the way to go.

I've actually reviewed my set of RPM A-Arms. Here's a link so you can read about them further. https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5994

And I heard nothing but good things about the FLM Dogbones. When/if I have one go bad, I'll be replacing with them. :)
 
This is some damage from my buddy's Cen GST 7.7 from a few weeks ago. I have no idea on how it happened but he called me a few min. after it happened and I couldn't believe it until I actually seen it. First off, a few days prior, he was runnin his truck and jumped the curb and hit the light pole in front of his house. Just touched third gear truck went flying and smack, shattered the gas tank in a million pieces. This damaged I didn't see. Then, he rigged up a savage tank so he could still at least go run later that night. Well, a few days later and his truck is down and out for awhile. The damage, I'll let the pics speak for themselves.

Before, this is the new one I bought
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And after, or should I say before I bought a new one.
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Has anybody seen this happen before or know why or how it could have happened. Any input on this would be great.
 
the blue ring around the outside? It looks as though it got VERY hot somewhere along the line, hardened to the point of getting brittle, and shattered.

Either that, or it was improperly heat treated, both would have the same end result. A clean break in steel is directly related to hardness.

Just a guess.
 
MotoPsycho said:
the blue ring around the outside? It looks as though it got VERY hot somewhere along the line, hardened to the point of getting brittle, and shattered.

Either that, or it was improperly heat treated, both would have the same end result. A clean break in steel is directly related to hardness.

Just a guess.
Click to expand...

That's what I was guessin too, well, after I seen what it looked like when it was off the motor. I know I remember always tellin him he needs to bring the idle down a bit cuz it's too high. That could be the prob. Or, it's from when he switched over to the Nova shoes. He might have to run a stiffer clutch spring. He's usin a 1.1mm spring now (which is stock). He might need to goto a 1.2mm or a 1.3mm spring, if they make them, I'll have to look into it.

MTBikerTim said:
I'm going with what moto said. It does look like it got very hot. Is there signs of slipping clutch shoes on the inside.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure, I really didn't check for that. I'll have to look tom. when I get home from work. How can you tell, what does it look like? I've never had to check this before.
 
We do a good bit in heat treating where I work. If you lightly bake an iron based metal, such as steel, it actually can be softened. It'll bend easier, but will actually be stronger against breakage. Now, there's a method called flash heating. That's what that looks like. Most steels we do end up turning blue (bluing). When you do this, the metal is super hardened but only at a high cost. The metal will become very brittle, and have a high likeliness of cracking.

I'd say that clutch bell was overheated, badly. I could be wrong, but with my experience in Iron and Steel, that's what I'd say! :)

Also, another good tip. Always make sure your clutch is free at an idle. If it's even lightly slipping onto the bell, it'll be continuously heating up. That's just another thing you could look into. :)
 
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