Savage X 4.9 dual brakedisk touch the clutchhousing

[tuneboy]

Hi all,
so i recently destroyed my front 13t bevel gear so i took the whole savage apard. I noticed that one of my red brake disks (i have hpi dual disks) was cracked so i ordered new ones.

Now that i wanted to install them yesterday, i tightened the screws that the diff can just about turn and then loosen the screws like 1/8 of a turn more. Assambled everything and then: Car not able to turn the wheels at all.. So i checked it: The outer brake disk is touching the clutchhousing of the engine. I tried grinding the brakedisk smaller, but it wasnt enought i think. Check the clutchhousing on the first picture, you can see that it was rubbing against it (and still is).

Anyway, why whould that happen? I have a feeling, that my clutch housing is not completely snug and might be a bit too much out? Can you guys confirm that?

Thanks!

 

[Polar_Bus]

Stock Savage 21 and 25 clutchbells were a 15T . The newer 4.6 used a 17T . Your using a 13T which has less teeth and a smaller gear "pitch diameter" and is allowing your brake discs to contact the clutch bell. You can either swap to a 15T clutchbell or sand down the diameter of your brake discs until you have clearance.

 

[Jabbo]

Thats an interesting topic because i recently had the same problem with friends truck. (x4.6) Tried 15-17-19 teeth clutchbells, all were rubbing. Tried different engine mount and engine plate, even tried my engine on to see if that fixes it but nothing did. Engine had to be just few mm higher. So eventually we cut out 5mm aluminum blocks between engine and engine mount. Still don't get it what the issue was/is.

 

[Polar_Bus]

Now I was curious about this and looks like my comment about a smaller 13T CB creating interference may be incorrect. I took pics of my assembly and my metal brake discs are also VERY close to hitting the CB . Looks like my brake discs sit further inward on the trans drive hex and therefore I have adequate clearance. If I try to move my discs outward towards the end of the hex cup the discs definitely hit the CB . This is a strange issue, I never realized this in all the years i've been building my Savages. I guess my best advice is try to position your brake discs so they run as far inward on the hex cup as possible. The other option is to move the complete flywheel / clutch assembly closer to the engine by removing material from the back (larger dia) side of the crank tapered collar. It's a pia and you will probably need a clutch "shim kit" but i've done it a few times and it works well.

 

[Jabbo]

Observing your pictures. If you add dual fibre break kit then it definitely will hit the clutchbell and you have the same problem.

 

[tuneboy]

very strange. I don't want to switch to a bigger CB since i don't need top speed, I'm only bashing in sandpits etc.
So i either grind off the brakedisk some more, or i could just run a single brake disk, since the first disk fits snug and sits BEFORE the CB

 

[Polar_Bus]

Also looks to me like the OP's clutchbell is a standard 1/8 scale "buggy" CB. Like I posted in another thread buggy CB's won't work on a Savage as they are longer in overall length. You need to stick with the HPI Savage clutchbells or you will have clearance problems .

Stock Savage CB on the left, and a typical Ofna 1/8 buggy CB on the right :

 

[tuneboy]

Also looks to me like the OP's clutchbell is a standard 1/8 scale "buggy" CB. Like I posted in another thread buggy CB's won't work on a Savage as they are longer in overall length. You need to stick with the HPI Savage clutchbells or you will have clearance problems .

Stock Savage CB on the left, and a typical Ofna 1/8 buggy CB on the right :
View attachment 8693

i don't have that holes in the CB.
Stil i cant say if its a savage one or not. I can check, i have some more laying in a box

 

[tuneboy]

Solved it ;D

 

[olds97_lss]

I had that issue with mine when I dropped the CB down to accommodate 3.8" trenchers for grass running. I just put spacers under the engine mounting tabs to raise it up 2mm.

I used the 2mm version of these I believe:
https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-aluminum-spacer-10pk.html

Whenever I make an order ther for something, I typically throw in a 30mm alloy fan and a couple sizes of spacers. Seems I always find a use at some point for both. 🙂

 

[Benrob]

I had this problem with mine, drove me insane, i flipped the car and bust by original f4.6 engine case. I managed to get a k4.6ho brand new, dirt cheep and swapped the bits over. It already had a flyweel attached and i never realised the fly wheel was thicker than the original f4.6 engine by about 6 mm ish. Enough to move the clutchbell forward and hit my breaks. Not sure if thats your problem but worth a look. Ive since fitted the f4.6 flywheel back on to the k4.6 with the spacer on the clutchbell screw and its fine now, have a good 4-5mm clearance from the brake discs.

 

[Benrob]

 

[Benrob]

Also have ran 47-17 and 52-13 spur/clutch bell no problems atall with clearance