Savage rebuild.. first attempt

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SwatKat

SwatKat

Active Member
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96
OK, si I have my Savage for 1 year, and so far, it works ok.. until 1 month ago, when I decided to have some spring shopping... So I got the maximizers, new tires and pull start.

A weeks ago, after a bash session, I decided it was time to replace things around and also clean the truck.. So, I started tearing it apart. Here are some questions/aspects:

- Found a missing screw on the rotostart plate.. after removing the engine I noticed what can you see in the first pic below. Didn't realize when happened... I think maybe because of the roto.. Anyway, ordered the item. The motor looks ok. Q1. Do you think of another cause? Should I tear apart the inside of the motor to look for hidden aspects?

Q2. When replacing the backplate, shoul I also replace the silicone o-ring?
- Found some used teeth on the flywheel.. You can see it in pic 2. I think it's no problem, but I'm asking anyway. Maybe from the HPI safety stop i have installed. Q3. Am I right or there is a problem?

- Replaced the lower A-arms with RPM ones and I'm waiting for a HPI suspension conversion set. Waiting for the big bores also.

- Replaced the plastic bushings with hpi steering upgrade set.
Q4. How tight should the screws on the servo saver be? Q5. I must use TL on these screws, right?

- Q6. I understand I must use TL only on screws that fits in metal? Do I use also on those on the front/back skidplate?

- Ordered and waiting for the OFNA tank and hope it will reduce the leaning problem.

- Q7. Should I use orings inside all the diff cups and wheel cups or only in diff cup?

- About hpi suspension conversion set. Q8. read that it includes the adjustable upper arms. So will I need the stock upper arms or no?

Expectations after these hop-ups: better handling the truck, more stability, less trouble with rotostart batteries (hope I will not reverse to roto)..

For now the truck sits and I'm waiting for the items.
Thanks for reading and possible replies to my questions.
 
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Wow bro, thats a list. I'm gonna try to give some insite on things ive had experience with.


Q1. Do you think of another cause? Should I tear apart the inside of the motor to look for hidden aspects? idk a whole lot about mills, but there are a distiguished crew that do so I'm sure they will chime in.

Q2. When replacing the back-plate, should I also replace the silicone o-ring? if it looks damaged. i dint replace mine (didnt need it) & had it on/off several times.

Q3. Found some used teeth on the flywheel, Am I right or there is a problem? your right bro, its fine.

Q4. How tight should the screws on the servo saver be? & Q5. I must use TL on these screws, right? do you mean the screws that hold the steering posts to the cross bars & bottom plate?

Q6. I understand I must use TL only on screws that fits in metal? Do I use also on those on the front/back skidplate? yep, our right, threadlock works on metal to metal, not sure what you mean by skid-plate part of question.

Q7. Should I use o-rings inside all the diff cups and wheel cups or only in diff cup? o-rings go in diff cup. not sure you'd be able to put them in both the diff & axle without them binding up on ya.

Q8. read that it includes the adjustable upper arms. So will I need the stock upper arms or no? you wont need the stock upper arms, you should use the ones that come with the suspension conversion so you can adjust camber angle.

Ordered and waiting for the OFNA tank and hope it will reduce the leaning problem. idk what tank you ordered, but the OFNA 250cc tank wiped out my lean problems, very happy with it.

Good luck with your build bro :peace:
 
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frddyj said:

Wow bro, thats a list. I'm gonna try to give some insite on things ive had experience with.


Q1. Do you think of another cause? Should I tear apart the inside of the motor to look for hidden aspects? idk a whole lot about mills, but there are a distiguished crew that do so I'm sure they will chime in. mine did that a couple times due to over tightening. just use some thread lock on there.

Q2. When replacing the back-plate, should I also replace the silicone o-ring? if it looks damaged. i dint replace mine (didnt need it) & had it on/off several times. ditto

Q3. Found some used teeth on the flywheel, Am I right or there is a problem? your right bro, its fine. ditto


Q4. How tight should the screws on the servo saver be? & Q5. I must use TL on these screws, right? do you mean the screws that hold the steering posts to the cross bars & bottom plate? assuming thats what you mean, that can be just tightened up. just a drop cant hurt though

Q6. I understand I must use TL only on screws that fits in metal? Do I use also on those on the front/back skidplate? yep, our right, threadlock works on metal to metal, not sure what you mean by skid-plate part of question. ditto for part one, part 2, just tighten up the screws and youll be fine.


Q7. Should I use o-rings inside all the diff cups and wheel cups or only in diff cup? o-rings go in diff cup. not sure you'd be able to put them in both the diff & axle without them binding up on ya. no bent or broken bones here and i don't run them

Q8. read that it includes the adjustable upper arms. So will I need the stock upper arms or no? you wont need the stock upper arms, you should use the ones that come with the suspension conversion so you can adjust camber angle. ditto


Ordered and waiting for the OFNA tank and hope it will reduce the leaning problem. idk what tank you ordered, but the OFNA 250cc tank wiped out my lean problems, very happy with it. the new era tank works good for this, the 250cc tank is for mid tanks. i dunno if you have it mid tanked or not. but if not, the 125cc size that fits in the stock location helps out alot.


Good luck with your build bro :peace:

ditto
Click to expand...

:ban4::pirate:
 
First, wow, thanks for all your quick and detailed answers! Thanks a lot! That cleared a lot what I wasn't sure about!

Second, yes, I do not have the midtank (maybe in the future), and, as it's easier for me to buy only from tower (otherwise the transport cost would kill me), and tower doesn't have the new-era, I went for the Ofna 125cc.

As for the Q4. How tight should the screws on the servo saver be? & Q5. I must use TL on these screws, right?, I was reffering to the 4 screws on the steering crack posts.

Finally, as for the Q6. I understand I must use TL only on screws that fits in metal? Do I use also on those on the front/back skidplate?, I was reffering to the screws outlined in the pic below.

Again, many thanks.

PS. By mistake, I tore up the pull start instructions sheet. And I remember someting about screwing in a cover... I mean, you should see the string coiled inside the pullstart or it should have come with a cover on the back?

I realize that this may be a dumb question, but it's my first attempt to rebuild a rc so I don't want to mess things up.

Or maybe you have a scan of the HPI Pull Start Assembly .21/.25 F4.1BB instruction sheet.

Many thanks again!
 
Those screws should be fine without locktite. It's the screws that are on the diff cups if you have alloy, the ones on the motor plate, and the hex posts that go into each differential that need locktite. The steering rack does need locktite too. Any screw that will be going into something metal needs locktite. Plastic parts don't need locktite.
 
Thanks for your answers. As soon as Tower has the parts, i'll order them and start building.. Will keep you posted of how the truck will handle afterwards.
 
I got the parts and started today the suspension conversion. But I can't get to squeeze the upper arm brace into the bulkhead. I followed the instructions in the leaflet included and trimmed the parts circled red in the photos below (pic 3 and pic 4). And the brace doesn't want to enter. Do I also need to trim below??? (circled greed and yellow in the same pics?) Or up?

I also included the first 2 pics (pic 1 and pic 2) without marks to see more clearly..

Thanks.

LE: I also updated one pic from HPI website. So, beside the red circled trimming, did they also trim in the green circle (below)?
 
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SwatKat said:
I got the parts and started today the suspension conversion. But I can't get to squeeze the upper arm brace into the bulkhead. I followed the instructions in the leaflet included and trimmed the parts circled red in the photos below (pic 3 and pic 4). And the brace doesn't want to enter. Do I also need to trim below??? (circled greed and yellow in the same pics?) Or up?

I also included the first 2 pics (pic 1 and pic 2) without marks to see more clearly..

Thanks.

LE: I also updated one pic from HPI website. So, beside the red circled trimming, did they also trim in the green circle (below)?
Click to expand...


Kat, that looks right to me, don't trim underneath. i know it was kinda tough to fit in there, but keep at it & you'll get it.
 
Yeah, thanks. Just needed to trim a little more at that sharp edge up. And managed to fit in the brace.

I was asking not to mess things up, 'cause it's hard to order items abroad (it's been 3 weeks now and I'm still waiting for some Tower shipments).. overseas transport is killing me...

Thanks.
 
Finally, after a month's work I managed to pull all things together. I only had one problem, that after installing the HPI HD engine mount, I couldn't fit the engine with the 49T spur. It was just too tight, so I had to switch back to the 47T.

I haven't had the time to start the engine, hope it works after changing the coverplate and switching to pullstart...

Some detailed pics tonight, forgot to download from camera...

Thanks for all tips and info shared by you, were a great help.
 
Kat if you wanna get that 49t to work, this might fix the 'tight' problem:

switch from machine head to button head screwz on motor-mount x-haust side:



Glad your build went as you planned, lookin forward to your pics :resp:
 
Well, had a lot of work the last couple weeks, but this morning found the time to go outside and see/test what I've done :D

Filled the tank, primed the engine and put on the glow starter and start praying for the engine to start (after replacing the backplate and switching to pullstart). Had to pull only 3 times and the engine started. Beautiful.

I drove on tarmac for a while but unfortunately the steering servo horn broke (it was 23 teeth and the hitec servo needs 24 teeth). So, as the spare parts were back at home, had to stop the session. Hopefully tomorrow will go again...

I also find out that I might need to shave-off the stoppers on the aluminium spindlers because the steering ray is too large.

LE. Can't upload files. Are 300x400 but I get error... Will try later
 
Some opinions qabout the mods I've made:
- the RSC is definitely worth the money, it brings a lot of stability and better handling;
- the OFNA tank did get rid of the half-lean issue;
- the pullstart is a way easier method to start the engine, less to carry around, less to charge etc.. (at least for now.. :D);
- the servo steering mod (bearings instead of bushings) is also worth the money;
- the belted hpi dirt claws with the ofna yellow foam are a lot stronger than the stock, they don not deform anymore.

Overall, I am very pleased with all the mods I've done. For now I guess I'll stop here, but I never know..:D
 
it never really stops does it? it is truly a addiction.............. lol
 
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