Savage half tank lean

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Juarezd

Juarezd

Active Member
Messages
87
Location
Texas
Ok I know there is already a lot off threads about this but I can't find what I'm looking for. Is the half tank lean still a problem with the savage x 4.6. I recently bought one about 2-3 weeks ago and wanted to see if it's still a problem. TIA
 
You wouldn't happen to know a good mod to fix? I want to try and keep it running it the same through out.
 
I recently ran across a thread on here where he (@francis-labarbara) that lowered his tank a bit so that the fuel level when nearly full is roughly level with the carb HSN inlet. I lowered mine (totally hack fashion), but have yet to run it. I've been running a 125cc OFNA buggy tank for years in all my savages, but they are discontinued now, so I was retrying the stock tank. As soon as it warms up, I'll see how it goes.

This is mine:
2016-0321-SavageX-StockTankLowered04.jpg

2016-0321-SavageX-StockTankLowered01.jpg

2016-0321-SavageX-StockTankLowered03.jpg


It's not nearly as crooked in person.
 
@olds97_lss is that the thread where he said to put the tank a bit Crooked? I thought I read somewhere that may help, a bit lower on the side that has the feed ... I may be confused tho...
 
Cool let me know how that works. I bought a header tank but I haven't received it. If this works I might try this instead.
 
Juarezd said:
Sweet so all it needs is to put the tank below the carb?
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Yeah. Full tank with the level of fuel at or below the fuel inlet on the carb. Hoping I'll find some run time this weekend. Will have to decide between running the revo or the savage... think I'll probably try the savage and perhaps go out the next day with the revo. I've done changes to both and want to run both. lol! Supposed to hit 70F this weekend without rain!
 
Oh ok I'll have to give it try and lower my tank.
 
For the front mount, you have to make something. For the rear, I think you can just move it down and perhaps cut the nub off that goes in the lower hole, then run the screw through the lower hole instead. I didn't have mounts when I did mine, so I made my own totally hack mounts and ground my chassis rail down a bit near the rear of the tank so it would sit more level.
 
Oh ok cool leaving out of town this weekend so it might be a project for next weekend.
 
Well, ran mine for almost one tank today... but it was a calamity of issues. Couldn't tell if lowering the tank did anything useful due to the other issues I was having. I haven't run my savage since October and the o-rings in my LRP dried up causing the tune to be erratic and change while the engine ran. Also, the integy alloy 7075 shoes/springs I put in it during the down time, engaged way too early, which also threw off tune and the 18T bell combined with the clutch issue just made for an awful run. When it ran cleanly, it was so fast I couldn't really control it in the grass. Basically, the HTL issue was the least of my issues if I was having that issue too.

So, I brought it home, found some silicone o-rings to replace the ones in the needles and green slimed them, also while trying to bend the leg of the springs on the shoes a bit to give them a bit more tension, one broke off and I don't have anything that fits it properly, so I found an old mildly used set of alloy ofna shoes/springs to give it a try and I put the 17T bell back on.

Will see if anythings improved tomorrow.
 
Dang Man sounds like on hell of a day. Guess that part of this hobby. Keep us posted when u get it running again.
 
Took it out again today and ran only 1 full tank through it as my LRP is being a PITA. I forgot this engine was giving me fits last year and I posted for suggestions to deal with it, then forgot about it apparently. It wasn't right from the day I bought it. It did seem to run pretty consistently, albeit bad, from full to empty, but I was monkeying with tune a lot trying to get it to idle for more than 10 seconds without stalling and the off throttle high rev to go away.

Got a new losi 454 carb on the way, hopefully I didn't just waste $42.
 
Hope it gets your problems fixed. I'm starting to realize how expensive this hobby can be:greedy:. O well it's worth it while it lasts. I fabbed a bracket and put a header tank on mine. Didn't get to run it though. I'll have to buy a pump to fill the header now.
 

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francis Labarbara said:
My new .28 did the same thing and I removed the carb, cleaned it and reinstalled it and it was fine then.
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I did that last year when I was fighting with it. I also tore the engine down, replaced the bearings with boca ceramic, RTV'd the backplate, carb neck, carb HSN. Didn't seem to help.

If the new carb doesn't work... then I guess I'll keep the engine for parts and probably pull the one out of my buggy since I never run it. Or, put the NIB picco I've had sitting for 3+ years waiting for one of my LRP's to die.


Juarezd said:
Hope it gets your problems fixed. I'm starting to realize how expensive this hobby can be:greedy:. O well it's worth it while it lasts. I fabbed a bracket and put a header tank on mine. Didn't get to run it though. I'll have to buy a pump to fill the header now.
Click to expand...

I tried a header tank before and it was more of a nuisance than it was worth.
 
I gave up on my LRP28 in my savage this weekend. Just ordered a new LRP 30 for it. So, I guess I'll really be testing that lowered tank a lot soon. I ran a few more tanks through it with a new carb on Sunday and it runs like the crap I remember from last year... so, instead of putting more time, money and fuel through it while wasting what little time I have to bash, it just became a parts engine for the other 2 LRP28's I have. Will look at it again when I do the swap, since I ran in a dusty area which coated the engine with fine dust to see if there's a crack or leak or something. As it is, I've replaced the bearings with new ceramic ones, replaced the carb, re-sealed the engine twice... runs severely erratic in power delivery and temp. I actually blew the first plug in 8 years this weekend. On settings that should have been so rich it shouldn't have ran at all.
 
olds97_lss said:
I gave up on my LRP28 in my savage this weekend. Just ordered a new LRP 30 for it. So, I guess I'll really be testing that lowered tank a lot soon. I ran a few more tanks through it with a new carb on Sunday and it runs like the crap I remember from last year... so, instead of putting more time, money and fuel through it while wasting what little time I have to bash, it just became a parts engine for the other 2 LRP28's I have. Will look at it again when I do the swap, since I ran in a dusty area which coated the engine with fine dust to see if there's a crack or leak or something. As it is, I've replaced the bearings with new ceramic ones, replaced the carb, re-sealed the engine twice... runs severely erratic in power delivery and temp. I actually blew the first plug in 8 years this weekend. On settings that should have been so rich it shouldn't have ran at all.
Click to expand...
Hope u get it running soon. How much the motor run you? Hopefully that fixes all your problems. The header tank worked on mine. It no longer gets lean until the header is about out of fuel. I got a question see if u can help me out. I've seen on a couple of other threads on here how people rebuild there motors after a gallon of fuel threw it. What's the benefit in that or is it necessary. Just wonder cause it's my first nitro and I got about 3/4 of a gallon threw it.
 
$171 shipped on ebay.

Rebuild after a gallon? Perhaps replace bearings and the conrod maybe, but at a gallon, most decent engines are just getting broken in. Back in the day, some guys would replace conrods, but I've never had an issue in the 20+ engines I've owned.I can usually at least get 9 gallons out of an engine before compression is so bad to cause running issues. If it's a good engine, I'd at most replace bearings and get the sleeve pinched. But most sub $200 engines aren't worth replacing piston/sleeve, conrod and bearings because you're nearly at the cost of a new engine.
 
olds97_lss said:
$171 shipped on ebay.

Rebuild after a gallon? Perhaps replace bearings and the conrod maybe, but at a gallon, most decent engines are just getting broken in. Back in the day, some guys would replace conrods, but I've never had an issue in the 20+ engines I've owned.I can usually at least get 9 gallons out of an engine before compression is so bad to cause running issues. If it's a good engine, I'd at most replace bearings and get the sleeve pinched. But most sub $200 engines aren't worth replacing piston/sleeve, conrod and bearings because you're nearly at the cost of a new engine.
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Oh ok and sorry if this is a dumb question but I'm new and clueless. What do you pinch the sleeve?
 
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