Question about LRP .28

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Here is a pic that Bad took and I edited, as you can see from the green arrow there is no way for the back plate to sit flush against the engine block, the raised area around the bolt hole will prevent this from happening. The holes in the block are meant to only receive the bolt, they are not countersunk so there would be gaps all the way around the plate. The blue arrow indicates that the raised section goes right up to the section that goes into the back of the block, this would prevent the use of any O-ring for sealing. I looked at this piece long and hard and found no feasable way of making it work (short of gooping it up with sealant) I'm not sure of an alternative plate but this is not the best choice.

DSC00924.jpg
 
The roto start backplate is not supposed to look like that. I have converted 2 lrp's to roto start whithout any problems.

It should look as in the picture below.... no raised area around the bolt holes.

If you want a metal backplate, the ones from the SH .28 6port - roto start version, is a direct fit.
SH part no. TS001G

ascg3340.jpg
 
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Just Don't Over Tighten The Screws! That Happened To Me Learned The Hard Way On That One. But Haven't Had Any Problems With My Lrp Since Then. Been Using The Roto Start For Over A Year Know No Problems! Also I Wanted To Say Watch What Fuel You Are Running If It Has To Much Oil Content It Will Cause The One Way Bearing To Slip. Also Learned The Hard Way! And If You Use After Run Oil Becarefull Not To Use To Much It To Will Cause One Way Bearing Problems!
 
Nice pic purenitro good to know that. Have not worked on many LRP's and the ones I did had pull starts thanks for the pic. PEACE
 
I just got back from the field today and I had my LRP and the backplate waiting on me. It is directly from LRP and doesn't look like the one above luckily.
 

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