Pics of my truck and question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hi,

Your right about living once, I would have never thought I would end up crippeled, disabled (whatever you want to call it) in my life. And you never know when you can go or even get crippeled where you can't do the things you want to. And it isn't really that expensive of a hobby, it is for what it is but I am thinking of like buying a new Sea-Doo or motorcycle, hobbies I can't do anymore. Of course I would be working and making a lot more money than I do now so it is about the same.

Also like you said, Ive been wanting one of these things since I was a kid, I have had 3 nitro toys in the past (I am talking before 1977) I couldn't afford radios for any of them, one was a dune buggy, a $35 dollar helicopter that broke first flight, and a hovercraft, none of them were much fun without the RC factor, and I know the hovercraft and helicopter ended up back at the store. So that's that they didn't have stuff anywhere near what these trucks are like back then anyway 🙂


Thanks for the instructions on the after run stuff, that's very helpfull.

John
 
Sorry John... We got off topic.

Yes,.. your right about the fuel thing with not running it out if you can avoid it.
The real consern was durring break-in.

If you can continue to never let it run out of fuel like that, The engine will be that
much better off in the long run.

Placing the piston at BDC at all times at cool down is great also. There's a part you
can buy real cheap I hope that will kill the engine without having to use the fuel line.

It's a kill lever that attatches to the TVP's. Don't have the part no. handy right now.
I'm sure your resourceful enough to find it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
DOOBEEWHA said:
Sorry John... We got off topic.

Yes,.. your right about the fuel thing with not running it out if you can avoid it.
The real consern was durring break-in.

If you can continue to never let it run out of fuel like that, The engine will be that
much better off in the long run.

Placing the piston at BDC at all times at cool down is great also. There's a part you
can buy real cheap I hope that will kill the engine without having to use the fuel line.

It's a kill lever that attatches to the TVP's. Don't have the part no. handy right now.
I'm sure your resourceful enough to find it.
Click to expand...

Thats one I haven't seen yet, I am wondering how it works? I looked a bit haven't found it yet but I will keep looking.

Thanks,

John
 
Yea.. It's made by HPI and SJ was the one to post it the last I saw of it..

If he see's this post, maybe he'll post a link to it... What do ya say, SJ?...
 
Hi,

Thanks for the link to that, for 5 bucks I getting one. I guess it stops the crankshaft from turning? Doesn't seem like that would be real god for the motor but I guess its ok?

Anybody use these? Do you like it?

I finished the X SS truck, so I have a weight for both trucks the alloy RTR truck (which is completely alloy except for the fuel tank mounts and the bumper mounts (the 2 center ones that og to the shock towers) and the SS is stock. So the RTR has the heaver tires too and it had about a half tank of fuel when I weightd it. the SS has the lighter tires and no fuel

X SS weigh's 10.5 LB

Alloy RTR weighs 13.5 LB

Iam not sure about the scale I used but I would think it should be pretty close.

thanks again for the link,

John
 
Its pretty easy you have to remove the fuel tank and one of the tank mounts and one transmisssion screw its very easy!!
 
Yes Will only take a couple minutes to install. Pretty simple and pushes agains the flywheel to kill the motor. Does not take much pressure to operate it either . I personally think they should be standard equiptment.
 
Hi,

I am getting them for sure. I want to order some paint to paint the body when I do so I am looking for info on painting what kind, what tools, and how the heck some of you guys do the great jobs you do. I have read through quite a few threads from tputting "paint" in the search box but not too much there.

Do you guys use spray guns, spray cans, or brushes? All three? I would love to know hw they get the paint on in layers where t blends together on the body, like those real looking flames. I guess theyre using transparent paint with regular paint to get those effects. Anyone know? I should probably stick with one color, I am guessing there no second chances wirh painting these bodys. I did see an air brush kit for like $20 that uses a can of presureised air for the propellent.

Thanks

John
 
Your local hobby shop should have paint compatible with the lexan bodies, Masks you can use for graphics, or you can use liquid mask. For your first I would suggest using a precut mask. First wash the inside of the body in warm soapy water, rinse then dry well. Use air to blow it out if that is available. You will paint the inside of the body so scuff it with scotchbrite, very well, you want to get in all the cracks and cranies of the body so the paint won't chip easily, I actually sandblast my bodies lightly. Wash again and dry. now remember you are painting the inside so you will need to think of your design backwards from a traditional paint scheme maening you need to mask for your detail and graphics first. If you want to say outline, or highlight your graphic do that now. then you can paint your main color or colors. after its dry, you will pull the masking for your graphics off and paint the newly exposed areas. Usually you will back the entire thing with a solid darker color as it will still be transparent in the light. finally use like a fastcoat sealer to protect your paint from fuel and water. Oh yea before you start with the body still clear set it on your truck, trim excess a little if you need, and mark where you want to put holes for mounting, antanea, fuel fill, head ect.. with a marker, to erase goofs use alchohol.. After your paint job is dry trim the body out and cut your holes, then peel off the protective plastic. apply the stickers you want, (apply and use a heatgun or hair drier to warm them up and press them down hard to makem stick real good) And of course take some pics and post so we all can see. I use rattlecans for the larger areas and an airbrush for the smaller details. And don't worry I painted cars and custom hot rods for 13 yrs and painting the inside of something so small Can be tricky, but the enjoyment you get out of doing it yourself Is awesome. I wish I could do paintwork like I see online and with time I will probably be able to. I have made some mistakes but am proud of every body I have done. Don't fear it, Just Do it. If you need assistance you should know, It's here. good luck, and have fun. Darn that was longwinded.
 
Hi,

Thanks for theinfo! Yeah some of the paint jobs I see online are uneliveable, actually when you concider how it's done there all great.

So I want the paint that says for lexan plastic? Oh I know what I wanted to ask about, the color changing paint like this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJLU3&P=7 will that work? it doesn't say anything about lexan but I have seen the name brand mentioned here on the site.

I have also read on the site where some draw the graphics on the outside (like you said about the holes) then mask it on the inside. that might be something I try. Oh I also saw the tinted paint for windows that looks like it may be a good idea if you want tinted windows.

I found a link to ziel something racing, those are some nice bodies, but I really like the idea of painting one myself. Just would love to beable to make effects like those flames they do, that is what I was talking about where it looks like theyare blending the paint on the body, I guess thwy are using transparrent paint for that goint on top of each other like a glaze. I do a litle oil painting and use (mostly) a type of painting where you paint on top of wet paint so you can bled the colors on the canvas. Couldn't do anything like that on one of these bodies.

Like you said I just have to do it, if I mess up I mess up, oh is there any way of getting the paint out of the inside and starting over? you said you sandblast the inside, can you remove the paint that way, or with sandpaper?

Thanks for the help,

John
 
samisavage said:
Your local hobby shop should have paint compatible with the lexan bodies, Masks you can use for graphics, or you can use liquid mask. For your first I would suggest using a precut mask. First wash the inside of the body in warm soapy water, rinse then dry well. Use air to blow it out if that is available. You will paint the inside of the body so scuff it with scotchbrite, very well, you want to get in all the cracks and cranies of the body so the paint won't chip easily, I actually sandblast my bodies lightly. Wash again and dry. now remember you are painting the inside so you will need to think of your design backwards from a traditional paint scheme maening you need to mask for your detail and graphics first. If you want to say outline, or highlight your graphic do that now. then you can paint your main color or colors. after its dry, you will pull the masking for your graphics off and paint the newly exposed areas. Usually you will back the entire thing with a solid darker color as it will still be transparent in the light. finally use like a fastcoat sealer to protect your paint from fuel and water. Oh yea before you start with the body still clear set it on your truck, trim excess a little if you need, and mark where you want to put holes for mounting, antanea, fuel fill, head ect.. with a marker, to erase goofs use alchohol.. After your paint job is dry trim the body out and cut your holes, then peel off the protective plastic. apply the stickers you want, (apply and use a heatgun or hair drier to warm them up and press them down hard to makem stick real good) And of course take some pics and post so we all can see. I use rattlecans for the larger areas and an airbrush for the smaller details. And don't worry I painted cars and custom hot rods for 13 yrs and painting the inside of something so small Can be tricky, but the enjoyment you get out of doing it yourself Is awesome. I wish I could do paintwork like I see online and with time I will probably be able to. I have made some mistakes but am proud of every body I have done. Don't fear it, Just Do it. If you need assistance you should know, It's here. good luck, and have fun. Darn that was longwinded.
Click to expand...




Good info there sami .. I gave you some rep for the good info :bling:
 
Wister said:
Hi,

Thanks for theinfo! Yeah some of the paint jobs I see online are uneliveable, actually when you concider how it's done there all great.

So I want the paint that says for lexan plastic? Oh I know what I wanted to ask about, the color changing paint like this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJLU3&P=7 will that work? it doesn't say anything about lexan but I have seen the name brand mentioned here on the site.

I have also read on the site where some draw the graphics on the outside (like you said about the holes) then mask it on the inside. that might be something I try. Oh I also saw the tinted paint for windows that looks like it may be a good idea if you want tinted windows.

I found a link to ziel something racing, those are some nice bodies, but I really like the idea of painting one myself. Just would love to beable to make effects like those flames they do, that is what I was talking about where it looks like theyare blending the paint on the body, I guess thwy are using transparrent paint for that goint on top of each other like a glaze. I do a litle oil painting and use (mostly) a type of painting where you paint on top of wet paint so you can bled the colors on the canvas. Couldn't do anything like that on one of these bodies.

Like you said I just have to do it, if I mess up I mess up, oh is there any way of getting the paint out of the inside and starting over? you said you sandblast the inside, can you remove the paint that way, or with sandpaper?

Thanks for the help,

John
Click to expand...

Yes the spaz stick paints work well they are made for this and look awesome. I have used the color changing paint but had adhesion probs not sure why. Bad prep or something I donno. yes draw your design on the outside then use tape and or liquid mask on the inside for your design. I tried the faskoat window tint but honestly didn't like the product as its water based and just don't work for me. I do use the faskoat sealer on everybody I do though. The effect you are talking about is true flame. Was developed by a local painter here in wash and is awesome seems everyone is doing it and rightly so as it is awesome I got a couple links to sites if your interested in useing the technique. there is instructional videos you can get that shows you how. as well as you can get templates but not sure if they are scale I think they're for full size but can be made easy enough I suppose. Some of the paint is trully awesome but why pay big bucks for something you will probably just destroy. I enjoy painting a body almost as much as destroying them.
 
Look up Mike Lavallee For the true Fire flames I am sure there are other painters doing it But he's the one that started it. You can get instructional DVDs that show how to do it. Also House of Kolors has paint kits.
 
samisavage said:
Look up Mike Lavallee For the true Fire flames I am sure there are other painters doing it But he's the one that started it. You can get instructional DVDs that show how to do it. Also House of Kolors has paint kits.
Click to expand...

Thank's a lot!!! I doubt Ill try it on this body its my first one to paint and will most likely stick with something simple. I am really curious about the color changing paint, I noticed it says it sprays on clear. Just want to see how it works and looks.

Water based paint just dosent seem like it would work to me, and I don't know anything about painting plastic's. I did see other brands of windo tint and smoke I will look around. the chrome sounds cool too or the bumpers and stuff.

so I need

1. sharp exacto blades and marker
2 scotchbrite
3. Masking material or liquid mask
4 maybe air brush and or brushes depending on paint type
5. paint(s) of choice
6. fastcoat sealer

Thanks, ill let you know how it turns out.

John
 
Yea the color changeing paint goes on transparent you will have to back it with a solid color. If you like try and get a precut mask for graphics. there are many companies that have them and they are fairly simple to use and look nice I have used all the ones my LHS stocks. I did not like the water based paint because it would not lay down evenly like I wanted no matter what I tried it looked blotchy. It sucks because I've bought alot of cool colors and spent quite a bit on the paint. As for trimming I use a pair of scissors, a pair of small curved scissor (for wheelwells) and a dremel for smoothing and fine tuning my edges. I also have a holesaw for my drill I use for cutting where the head pokes through the body. I'm all over the place hear, bear with me. For tinting the windows I will overreduce some black and spray light coats with my airbrush. As far as the Chrome I've seen it look nice like chrome, but have been unable to get that result from it I think it may be because I sandblast. Try the Spazstix Halographic paint It looks way cool like the little emblem on your credit card. I think I will be doing a review on a body If you like I can try to do a step by step on here so you can see how I paint them. Either way have fun.
 
has anyone seen a pic of this paint, if so post it. I'm curious what it looks like on truck.
 
Sami,

Maybe all over the place, but hitting all the key points (stuff I didn't even think about), Funny you mentioned the holographic paint, I was wanting to ask you about it but figured I asked too many questions already, I hate being the one asking questions and not knowing enough to help anyone "yet".

I am very very very glad you said about backing those clear paints with a solid, I would have not known to do it. I guess it is imporntant to get the correct background color's for the color changing or holographic paint (I will try the ho;lographic (actually I might try that on the masked parts and other color changing colors on the rest, still not sure) Oh, is it better to use a darker or lighter color for backing them, or does it matter?

I haven't double checked but I may not have to drill or trimm anything on this body, it is the one I got with the kit. I think there's already holes in it. I really like that body cause it kind of reminds me of the toyota truck (I have had 5 of those toyota 4x4's since 85" and love them, I had a Jeep before that too I like jeeps too) I haven't seen any toyota 4x4 savage bodys yet.


Thanks


John
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 518 (members: 1, guests: 517)
Back
Top