Pics of my truck and question

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ShiftPoint

Well-Known Member
Messages
840
Location
Ft. Laduredale, FL
Hi,

Here are some pictures of my truck. I am kind of embarrassed about spending so much money on it and in the end feeling like I ruined the truck, don’t get me wrong, I think it looks great but as for as performance and fun driving, well it is lacking big time. It is just too heavy. I am kind of glad I go it out of my system, and I was just looking for a reason to take the thing apart.

So I spent more money and bought a SS kit, I don’t want to throw this away of course, but I am not having near as much fun with it as before, so I have a couple of ideas and would like some advice.

I can either part some of this out and use it on the new truck, like half on one and half on the other but I don’t think I want any heavy parts one the new one. So I guess my question is, is there a motor that would be big or powerful enough, or other way (without scrapping the mods) to make this thing fun again? I guess what I am asking is how do people use these, or are they just for looks? Might be good for plowing traxxas with, it is so heay I think it would do a good job there

Next thing I am going to do is take the pipe off, I was thinking some of the power loss may be because of the pipe, it is one of those quad pipes and I suspect it is not doing a good job I don’t think it has much pressure because I can not shut the motor off by covering the holes, I think I am getting all of them covered but I must not be, in any case I will put the stock pipe back on and see how it does.

As far as the parts I got goes, everything shown in the pictures works or at least fits pretty good, there were a couple of minor problems and some parts I bought that are useless

The Center gearbox case, there was a problem using it with the duel disk brakes, the screws and bushings that comes with the gearbox is not long enough for all 3 of the metal plates that rub against the disk’s, I had to use a different screws and make a different bushings from some brass tubing I had around here, it would be fine for the older brakes.

That is really the only problem I can think of that I had assembling the thing.
Oh, one more problem, and question, I need some shocks that will work with the extra weight, Does anyone know if there are any shocks I can get or these heavy trucks? I tried some stiffer springs (in the pic) but they aren’t quite good enough.

Ok here are some worthless or totally useless parts, (all by Integy)

1.Uprights --they rub the inside of the wheels.

2.Heavy duty turnbuckles- the ball the screws go through do not pivot far enough, so the only way to use them is if you compress the shocks about halfway down, the lack of movement n the ball won’t allow enough of an angle for proper fit.

3.the rollbar- just doesn’t fit around the motor correctly.

4.steering assembly (don’t remember what it is called) there is no servo saver on it.

Thanks,

John
 
DANNNNNNNNGG!!!!!!..
You've been holding out , bud.
Sweet ride Wister... No wonder you were saying it was so heavy...
Well done on your build, my friend...I'll be back to post more comments in abit, bro.
 
that's a beautiful rig!! I know, you want something faster, etc...well, upgrading the engine will help...you didn't specify which mill you are running, but it looks like a stock HPI mill of some sort...there are quite a few motors that will provide a better power band...look into Axial, or STS...both offer very affordable engines with impressive power ranges...plus you can have them ported and polished, to get the most out of them...

now, everyone else on here is going to tell you to get rid of all the alloy stuff (I personally built an all alloy machine myself, but it will probably end up being a shelf queen), due to the whole "aluminum will bend, but not return to it's original shape" arguement...and it's a valid one, I'm sure...one bad landing, and a bent A-Arm, and you're done for the day (or week, or however long it takes you to replace the alloy arm)...plus re-inforcing parts, make the breaking point move somewhere else...beef up one thing, only to break something that it's connected to, etc...etc...

plus there are ALOT of "purple haters" on the forums (I personally love the color, and half of my alloy beastie is purple, along with the bulk of my paintball gear)...just be prepared for alot of "ewwwww...purple..." comments...
 
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Komodo is probably right on this one, Wister...

And I say screw the purple haters anyway...lol
I've even been known to rib a few here and there over the purple thing myself.
Out of fun of course. If I thought I was really hurting someone's feeling's over
it, I would never do it again.

Guys will joke, but the one's that won't let it go are really dealing with some
form of envy,lol if you ask me.

So do I really care?... NO. Why should I?...
It's just a way to push buttons..lol. And it works pretty good in some cases..lol

My point here is, Who gives a **** what anyone thinks about what we consider
"our own tastes in prefference"...

I think your ride is a cool one for sure. If you ever desided to remove the purple,
there's ways to do that too.

Not that I'm suggesting that. Just for your own knowledge.

Again,..I say, WELL DONE on your bling machcine, John.

NOTE: I'm also very impressed and inspired by your conviction to overcome certain
limitations, John. It takes courage to face the unknown... You've proven to me that
you have what it takes to hang here anytime you feel the need, brother.

Sinserly, your friend, STEVE
PS.. An Axial32 or a STS DM30RB will raise that front end faster than a dream with
Natalie Portman raises me in the mornning.
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Hi,

Thanks for the complements guys, I guess this will be shelved too, I guess someday I may try to put a bigger motor on it and try to speed it up, still cant really jump it or stuff like that, I really didn’t think the ALU would be that much heavier than the plastic, and really part for part there isn’t or doesn’t feel like a big difference, but you put them together and boy what a difference. The thing about putting a bigger motor on it is if I wanted a street racer I would buy a car. Oh well live and learn

What you said about plastic bending or flexing back, when I got the skid plates that is when it hit me that I messed up (not even thinking about weight) I realized that if or when I crash into something and the skid plate bends, that’s it.

I really like how the ALU looks, it just gives it a high tech look (anodized ALU always has a high tech look to me), as for the color, once you buy a couple parts you really have to stick with it, I do like purple though, it is really just a matter of opinion, what I don’t like about it is that so many people have purple ones it was a tough call for me between the purple and silver on stuff like the tvp’s,

I do hope it is for more than just the shelf, Oh well…

Thanks, I did have some problems but there is a way around most things (I was going to say everything but I can't climb a latter) It wasn't as hard as I thought It was going to be, still some good came out of this, I learned a lot, andam not afraid to dive into it, or at very least I know I can do it (physiclly)

Thanks again,

John
 
I would say that the Integy MSR 6 Shocks are by far the beefiest with the stiffest springs that I know of.

Talk to Chunky for a member discount here.
In fact... looking at all the integy you've already got, You may have been able to save quite abit getting the parts from hpisf's member discount.

The MSR 6's require an IRC mounting kit $40 U.S.
I think the member deal for the shocks would be in the low 90's, dollar wise. They normally list for $119 + tax

I can't be quoted.

Here's a pics.:
Rock_Crawler-Ofna_Pirates_010.jpg
Rock_Crawler-Ofna_Pirates_011.jpg


Ford_56_restoration_003.jpg
Savage_with_MSR-6_s_04.jpg
 
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yeah, we definately could have hooked you up considerably.....Just out of curiosity, what did that truck end up runnin' you when you finished? ]-[0pa]0ng has a sweet Titanium rig.
 
I would say that the Integy MSR 6 Shocks are by far the beefiest with the stiffest springs that I know of.

Talk to Chunky for a member discount here.
I fact... looking at all the integy you've already got, You may have been able to save quite abit getting the parts from hpisf's member discount.

The MSR 6's require an IRC mounting kit $40 U.S.
I think the member deal for the shocks would be in the low 90's, dollar wise.

I can't be quoted.

Here's a pic.:
Rock_Crawler-Ofna_Pirates_010.jpg


Ww, those are huge, infact I have seen them (probably the same picture) and didn't even realize it was a savage, the shocks and tires are so big it makes the truck look small, what kind of tires/wheels are those, there really nice?

Is that your truck? If so what kind of motor is that? I have got to stop looking, makes me want to spend, and I have got to get my card paid off before I buy anything else, I hate, hate hate having a balance on it.

You know I read about the member discount (and integy warrings) after buying, I am starting to get pretty far along in the forum, so much info here it is great.

Thanks,

John
 
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Your funny, John.
Answer some other posts you've got and I'll get some more pics.
Yea... this is my ride and the tires are a love hate relationship.lol

The tires are on loan to me for a short while.

Their Ofna Pirates on Ofna inset rims. They are alot heavier that your average bear,
said Booboo.
If you are another savage, or any other make or model in the area of these tires,...
You do not want to be hit or ran over by them things.lol.

They will break you... and your wallet.
They exploit the wheel base in a big way. With a high powered mill and a beefy diff
package, these things are a menace to any other truck in the general area.

I find that they limit my turnning radius too much.

Maybe a stronger servo will help but they create there own new wheel base and throw out
the old.
The mill.. Dynamite mach 28 with a factory rating of 3.6 HP.
I did an overly anal break-in on this mill to try and preserve the pinch as much as possible
and I believe it paid off.
I posted a complete account of this break-in process and feel the effeort proved to some
degree that this mill is a spec 2+ mill.
I will admit,... my break-in was drawn out over time, making it a long winded ordeal. But since
it was my second mill I ever broke-in, I figured that the attention I committed to this mill
was more of an education, rather than a chore.

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2322
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Just out of curiousity... How much fuel have you run throught he engine, John?


Hi,
As for the cost, I have not added it up, I hate to, If I figure it ot I will let you know, the most expensive stuff was the gearbox casing's, I guess it really wasn't that bad,I will try to figure the price.

Oh I will be wanting a set of those shocks and adapter in the near future, maybe next month (maybe sooner??)
Thanks...

Fuel through it, a bit over a gallon, I guess I have about 1/2 a bottle of the 5th quart, I used 2 bottles for break in, actually I have never run it too hard, just really played around in my back yard so far and over in the parking lot of a church/school behind my house, so I hink I am kind of still breaking it in, if or after I burn these motors up (the one I have and the kit on its way) then I will start thinking about a new mill one of the good ones.

Thanks,

John

Edit, Doob- that is one BA looking truck you have there! thanks for the pic's, that brings up another question 🙂 Painting the bodys, I will start another thread later when I am ready to paint, the paint on your truck looks great, I just cannot imagine how you guys do such a good job, just getting the lines so straight (I guess masking) but all the small detial, like the lights, vents chrome etc... How the h3?? do you guys do it? I can't imagine you ge second chances either, I mean I doubt it is water color so it has to be perfect the first time. Not to mention the brush strokes, where are they, looks like it is sprayed but the kits I have seen (the little Ive looked into painting) seem to come with brushes. Oh those flames that look almost like real fire, I will have to start a thread about this later. one quick question, are those bodys pinted from the inside or painted on the outside?

Thanks, nice truck,

John
 
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Wow Nice Ride Wister!!! I'm Still Fighting The Urges To Keep Buying Hopups For Mine So don't Feel Bad............ And I've Never Liked The Colour Purple But For Some Reason I Like The Savage "shade" Of Purple!!
 
Nice ride Wister! Way to dump the dough! If you've only ran a gallon of fuel, there is still probably more power to come from your mill. Although it may not be enough to throw your truck around like you want. There are Pro's and Cons to all that alloy, so don't feel as if you've ruined your truck. It's just tough as nails now. Wouldn't want you to hit one of mine with it for sure, There would be plastic parts scattered all over with your rig coming through the other side with my big mill in it's mouth. that may solve all your problems anyhow way to build now you know the ins and outs of the savage so enjoy the next one and don"t give up on your first. A little more tinkereing and that will be an enjoyable rig as well.
 
BEAUTIFUL TRUCK WISTER.. i agree with what everyone has said here..purple is an HPI colour and we have to live with it. The Alloy looks soo sweet but also understand..you don't have to bash that truck...you see beautiful 1:1 trucks around town all the time and believe me over half of them have never been off road or raced...they are just for cruising and the wow factor. Some one said to build a second truck that you can bash..and now that you have built a bullet proof one..you should now which parts you can use again and the ones you will want to stay away from. Again...NICE JOB!!!!

-Joe
 
Agreed ^^^ But w/ all that alloy you should have some extra stock plastic parts laying around . You should maybe start thinking about putting another rig together. Then You could have a full on brasher .. just upgrade the diffs and your ready for bashing ... Anyway Great looking ride my bro
 
Hey John,
I noticed that you have some fuel left in the tank... be sure to use it that day or get it back in the fuel bottle because of nitro evaporation.
This will happen very quickly and cause you wierd tuning issues.

The tank can't be trusted to store your fuel for any length of time.

Just a friendly reminder, bud.
 
Hey John,
I noticed that you have some fuel left in the tank... be sure to use it that day or get it back in the fuel bottle because of nitro evaporation.
This will happen very quickly and cause you wierd tuning issues.

The tank can't be trusted to store your fuel for any length of time.

Just a friendly reminder, bud.

Thanks, I didn't know it happens that fast, I will put it in a different and use it for cleaning the filter, as you guys mentioned.


Thanks everybody for the info, I did start putting together a new one for fun driving, I don't know what I will do witrth this one, I guess I will see in time. The new one is going together pretty quick, I am using the old parts for what I can, at first I was just going to buy the parts I needed but by the time I started adding them up it was cheapper to get the kit.

Thnks again,

Later

John
 
Yea... The tank will pressurize with the lid firmly down, but when the the truck is off, the pressure disapears and can
seepage of nitromethane can escape out of the pipe's pressure line and the carb line in some cases.

Think of it like white glue...
If you leave it exposed to air, it will dry out and get gummy. Probably not the best analogy, but gets the point accross.
 
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2 or 3 days is fine.. I run odonnell and trinity flue ... trinity. the flue starts to change color in about 3 days .. never had a problem w/ it ..

But I do like to have the tank dry when I can ...
 
Yea... It's just a good habit to be on top of it. You definately want to clear the carb of fuel before you put the truck up for the day.

Newbies should hear this at least once, I guess.

Thankx SJ
 
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Thanks, I didn't know it happens that fast, I will put it in a different and use it for cleaning the filter, as you guys mentioned.


Thanks everybody for the info, I did start putting together a new one for fun driving, I don't know what I will do witrth this one, I guess I will see in time. The new one is going together pretty quick, I am using the old parts for what I can, at first I was just going to buy the parts I needed but by the time I started adding them up it was cheapper to get the kit.

Thnks again,

Later

John

That is why you find so many "New parts" on ebay ya buy a truck or two part them out and make twice what you origanally paid. Get a complete kit. you now have two trucks with spare parts I can almost bet you if you keep your spares from your build in your box, they will someday save a bash day from ending early cuz you need a 3.00 part . most bash breakage you can fix in the time you packup and find a hooby shop to buy the part.
 
2 or 3 days is fine.. I run odonnell and trinity flue ... trinity. the flue starts to change color in about 3 days .. never had a problem w/ it ..

But I do like to have the tank dry when I can ...

Hi,

Ive been using the odonnel's too, sombody here said it was good.

This brings up a question, I had assumed it was better not to run it dry because the instructions say only to pinch the fuel line in an emergency. I thought that might be because of the oil for the piston and cylinder. So that is incorrect? I should let it urun dry the last ride of the day anyway?

I did buy some after run oil, I had read here and seen for myself that this fuel attracts water and thatr is why it is good to use it. Problem I have with that is the oild (after run) says to squrit it in the carb when through for the day, problem I have with that is I have to cut a tie wrap every time I remove the filter, is there a way around that? do you guys use after run oil?

Thanks for the help.

John
 
Good point Sir. Sami...
I know the feeling your going through, john. At least I think I do, anyway...

We get so charged up over reliving a little bit of our childhood dreams, then we get slammed back in to reality when the LHS bill adds up... I say,.. Screw it!
That is... As long as your family isn't sufferring from any economical hardship, brought on by your wreckless spending, of course. That's soooo easy to do...

You only live once (as far as I know) and ya can't take it with ya...
SO GO HAVE SOME FUN, BUD!!!!
Your BLING queen is only a symbol of your willingness to do what YOU WANT for a change... RIGHT???... That's right.
 
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You only live once (as far as I know) and ya can't take it with ya...
SO HAVE SOME FUN, BUD!!!!
Your BLING queen is only a symbol of your will to do what YOU WANT for a change... RIGHT?.. That's right.[/QUOTE]

Very nicely put Master Doobeewha !!! Mr. Wister I normally use fuel bottle to drain tank, pull filter put 4 to 6 drops after run in carb and fire motor after it dies pull glowplug a couple drops in head and 1 to 2 more in carb and pull over once, replace glowplug. blow out fuel line, clean, retreat and replace filter and fuel line to carb. Then I's all ready to rock next time. To me this is assurance the mill will last as long as possible (Maybe) and only takes like 5 mins after I get home.
 

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