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Performance steering kit

Discussion in 'HPI Savage Flux' started by olds97_lss, Jan 8, 2018.

  1. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Well-Known Member

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    Anyone else have this conversion/"upgrade"? Curious if you changed it back to stock after wearing out ball joints and snapping off bolts.

    My flux came with the kit and without any of the original parts. I have bought the original upper arms, hinge pins, hinge pin plates, but I'm not sure if I can use the axle carriers/c-hubs that come in the kit with the stock upper arms. My upper ball joints have a retarded amount of slop in them and it seems every other run, I snap off a 3mm bolt holding them on anyway, then I lose the fiddly aluminum spaces they have as well and have to stack up 10 washers to make up the difference.
     
  2. Wheelspinn

    Wheelspinn Member

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    I'm not sure what the upgrade is that your referring to.. but I was having a crazy amount of slop from all the ball joints and steering linkage on the $100 basket case I just rebuilt. Then I found a stripped stock servo in there to top it off. I ordered a new steering/servo saver setup with all the tie rods and ball ends included for the whole truck. It was $20 but on flea-bay. Then I put a Savox 1256tg servo in and it whips those trencher Xs around no problem.
     
  3. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, it wasn't "steering" specific, but rather a suspension conversion kit:
    http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/87245

    The guy that had my flux must have installed this kit and removed all the anodizing so everything is silver. Unless you take the hubs apart, you can see in the bearing recess where it's purple still.

    I have a lot of slop in the upper a-arm turnbuckle ends. It has a ball end on both ends of a 4mm turnbuckle (I think it's 4mm) and at the chassis side, it uses a 3mm bolt for the ball end, which is very weak since it's not a captured bolt like it is out by the wheel and they tend to bend and snap off. That combined with excessive slop in the ball ends makes for a lot of slop in general.

    I bought the parts to replace the upper arms with stock arms, but I'm not sure if they are the right length to work with the conversion kits c-hubs. Guess I can go through the hassle and find out.
     
  4. Wheelspinn

    Wheelspinn Member

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    Oh yea got it.. looks like nice stuff, but my experience with aluminum suspension parts is that with heavy bashing they always wear at the pivot points and end up sloppy. The holes that act as pivots get progressively ovalized and seem to lose material faster than plastic parts do. I love the look and stiffness when the parts are new, but always feel let down when the truck ends up clicking and sloppy a few months down the road. For offroad r/cs, if the stock stuff isn't good enough, and RPM doesn't make parts, its not a good basher.
     
  5. Wheelspinn

    Wheelspinn Member

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    I guess I skimmed over the part where you said its the ball ends causing the slop.. that should be a pretty easy fix, I don't know if the stock upper arms will fit with those billet bearing carriers though. Looks like they're made to work with ball end rods.
     
  6. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Well-Known Member

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    Yeah. Kind of what I thought too. I didn't look to see how they would fit in the upright, just held them up to compare for length. They look like they would fit length wise. Guess the only way to be sure is to try it.

    Worse case, I replace the front hups/carriers with stock and get integy ones for the rear like my SavageX. At least then I can get rid of the tiny 3mm bolts I keep bending/breaking on the inside mounts.
     
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